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South Central

South Central is one of about a dozen crags all located on the banks of the Bomaderry Creek, within the town of Nowra. The rock at Nowra is sandstone, but quite different to the soft sandstone that characterises Sydney and the Blue Mountains. Nowra sandstone is considerably harder, contains a lot more conglomerate material (embedded pebbles etc.) and is less prone to forming chossy caves.

South Central is about as close to being a gym as an outdoor crag can get. It's bolted to the beejesus (with ring bolts and brackets - no crappy carrot bolts here!), and sees all sorts of gym-like antics from its inhabitants. It's also the home of such legendary climbs as "Sperm Bitches" and "Dungeon Master" (both 31), and such legendary feats as Saxon Johns' solo of "Ain't No Sunshine When He is Gone" (28).

To get to South Central, park at the end of Jamieson Road and walk straight ahead down a slightly overgrown path until a small waterfall is visible to your left (about 30m from the carpark). Cross over the creek at the waterfall and continue along the track for about 15m until you emerge in steep, chalked roofland.

A note about grading: I had heard that Nowra climbs were generally (and in some cases severely) undergraded. From my (somewhat limited) experience, I'd say that the grades are all pretty fair, being comparable to Blue Mountains grades (Mt Piddington is the crag I usually measure against). In any event, if you're just leading Sydney 16s, a Nowra 16 might leave you hanging from the sharp end of the rope.

The guide for the area is the "Rockclimber's Guide to Nowra & Wollongong". There is also a "Rock" magazine update available, which is well worth getting.


Recommended Recommended Sport Silver Hands 9m 17 (originally graded 17, then upgraded to 18)
A great, pumpy climb on a series of surprisingly juggy holds. 3 ring bolts on the route, with double ring bolts for the lower off. Probably the easiest climb at South Central, and very popular (some dude soloed it while we were flaking the rope!).


Recommended Sport Burping Burgers 8m 18 (originally graded 16)
Up nondescript block to first ring bolt, then monster jugs to second ring bolt. Crux layaway moves up to crimpers below double ring bolt lower off. Probably the second easiest climb at South Central.


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