The Fortress

While the more usual access is to reverse the Fortress Creek canyon exit track and then abseil off near the waterfall, we took the scenic route, walking from Govett's leap (across the valley) down to Junction Rock, then back up the prominent southern ridge that reaches the base of the Fortress towards its South Western tip. This took us about 2 hours (in hot weather) and was nowhere near as tiring or horrendous as I thought it might have been!

This also deposited us at exactly the base of the following route, which follows a fairly direct line straight up from the ridge.

The guidebook for the area is the "Rockclimbs in the Grose Valley" guide, by Warwick Williams.

A standard rack of wires and cams (to #3 camalot size) is sufficient, although a #5 camalot is also recommended. Helmets are an absolute must and 60m double ropes are highly recommended as well. Definitely not for the inexperienced.

To start, solo up the easy ledges then halfway up the right tending gully (about 20m in total). Belay off a small tree.

Pitch 1 35m 11
Move left along the obvious traverse line then up as you will to the large, steeply sloping ledge. The initial moves up are harder than they look and it's much easier to traverse back onto the wall from further left.

Walk up the ledge, trending left initially, then up a short 8m wall (might be an idea to belay up this). At the top of this move up and slightly right to the small stand of saplings below the obvious squeeze chimney corner crack (#5 camalot for this belay). You move about 80m up the ledge in total.

Pitch 2 45m 11
Grunt up the squeeze chimney for a move or two then fondly bid it farewell and venture out onto the right wall. Engaging climbing on rather suss rock (dinnerplates) up this, wandering about a bit to find pro. Trend right to the arete, and eventually you'll come to a small ledge below a large boulder. Move right and head up the wide crack in the boulder to stand on top of a lovely little exposed pinnacle perched above the void. Step down and across to the main wall and wander up this (very crumbly rock - take care) to a lovely panoramic belay ledge.

Pitch 3 55m 11
Move right and up the obvious chimney (which is often wet at the back). While it appears blank and quite intimidating there is actually sufficient pro to make it feasible. The moves up the chimney are surprisingly varied and sustained, and the climbing is quite good despite the dirt, water and mud in various places. Once at the top, head left and up a steep dirty gully for about 15m, passing the two dodgy looking banksia trees. Belay off a small gum further up, with the trusty #5 camalot in a block just to the left.

To get off, walk directly away from the cliff for about 250m and you'll hit the Fortress Ridge walking track (which is probably the way you came in). Turn right and follow the track back to the Mt Hay Road, taking the left fork at each junction. It's about 45 minutes of basically flat walking to get back to the road.