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The Wasteland, Engadine
The Wasteland is one of a number of recently developed crags located around Engadine, on the southern outskirts of Sydney. Although most of the crags here are located in the Royal National Park, to the East of the railway line, the Wasteland is located to the West, towards Lucas Heights Nuclear Facility (which you can see from Aunty Dot's and the Rainbow Wall).
The crag is actually a group of 4 or 5 small areas all within about 200m of each other. Each area seems to have quite distinctive climbing, from thin slabs to chossy rooves to steep, hard, clean faces. All of the areas are within 20m of the fire trail, and easily visible from it.
To get there by public transport, catch a train to Engadine railway station, then it's about a 15 minute walk to the crag. From the end of Peppermint Grove, Engadine, walk uphill (to the right) until the trail branches, at which point take the left hand fork. The Vertex is the black slab located about 50m on, at the bottom of the first hill. The prominent buttress at its left end is the Grandstand. The other areas are about 100m further on. A better place to park if you're only going to Aunty Dot's or the Rainbow Wall is at the end of Ferntree Road. Park in the carpark, cross the netball courts to the large electricity tower, then veer right and head down to the top of Aunty Dot's.
The guide for the area is the newly published Sun, Surf and Sandstone online guide book. This crag is described here.
The Vertex
The first slab you come to along the fire trail. Faces basically south, so is probably better in summer than winter.
Asking for Action 8m 17 (originally graded 16)
At the right hand end of the slab, just to the right of the obvious, grotty looking crack (King Kongs Bum). Boulder up the tree roots (or belay from the ledge), then hard crux past first bolt to break, then up as you will past a second bolt to 2BBs. Unless you've got a big reach, the first bolt can only be clipped halfway through the crux move.
The Grandstand
The isolated buttress at the left hand end of the Vertex, distinguished by a triangular piece of rusted metal at the base. Also faces basically south. Climbs are described right to left (opposite to the guidebook).
Ocean of Wind 15m 16 (originally graded 18)
The right hand line of fixed hangers on the front of the buttress. Hard direct start (worth 22, perhaps?), or easier 1m to the right, then pleasantly up the wall. The top-out is the crux, but isn't as hard as the top-out on Weirding Way. Belay off the rap chains on a block on top of the buttress.
Dodging the Elements 15m 17 (originally graded 18)
A hard start (about a grade 20 move), then doddle up under the small roof to the second FH. Crank over the roof, then up past two more FHs to a pretty nasty top-out. Belay off the rap chains on a block on top of the buttress.
Weirding Way 15m 17
A nice climb that gets harder with height. The first crux is above the fixed bracket, as you try to get into the top flake and up to the second bolt. The second crux is the absolutely heinous top-out that had my second shaking and shuddering as he body smeared his way over it. Take a large cam for one of the higher breaks, and perhaps a smaller one for lower down. Belay off the rap chains on a block on top of the buttress.
Aunty Dot's
Located about 100m further along the fire trail, and about 20m up the hill. A number of short, pleasant walls perfectly suited for beginners. This wall faces basically west, so is much more pleasant in winter. Climbs are described right to left (opposite to the guidebook).
Vengeance 7m 17
A really nice climb with some balancy moves down low to gain the water groove (easier if you've got a big reach). From there to the top is a jug-fest.
Highway Neanderthal 7m 14
A pleasant jaunt up a nice, clean wall with a bulging section at the top, followed by a nasty top-out. Take some slings to belay off one of the large trees back a short way from the edge of the cliff.
?? 6m 6
The right hand most crack on the shorter face left of the main wall at Aunty Dot's (about 1m left of the right hand arete). Easy face climbing up the crack on jugs.
Rainbow Wall
The rainbow wall is visible through the trees from the bridge on the fire trail. The right hand end is below the left hand end of Aunty Dot's, so if you're walking from Aunty Dot's just walk left and down the hill, then rap in. The rock is quite unusual, being hard and rounded and looks almost like granite. Most of the climbs are hard (particularly on the main face). Climbs are described right to left (opposite to the guidebook).
Dancing with Dolphins 9m 18 (originally graded 17)
Easily to the first bolt, then hard from there to the top (#1, #1.5 friends). We ended up going right at the top to a ledge, because it looked even harder to go left. Belay off trees or hexes/cams in a block at the top.
Unnamed (perhaps previously unclimbed?) 12m 15
Not in the guidebook. Start 2m to the right of Conan the Gonad Cruncher. Up flakes (balancy) to break (#0.75 or #1 camalot), then up to left tending ramp. Walk up the ramp (small cam at the top) then traverse left (railway pin) to the rap chains on top of Fatboy. Enjoyable up to the ramp, then worthless.
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