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Thompson's Point
Thompson's Point is located opposite the PC crag on the southern side of the Shoalhaven River, about 2 kilometres
west of Nowra. The rock at Nowra is sandstone, but quite different to the soft sandstone that characterises Sydney
and the Blue Mountains. Nowra sandstone is considerably harder and contains a lot more conglomerate material
(embedded pebbles etc.).
If you're looking for a day of excellent sport climbing at any grade above about 17, Thompson's Point is the place.
There are over 100 climbs at the crag, and a great proportion of them are well worth doing. Definitely a recommended
destination.
The guidebook for the area is the recently published "Rockclimbing at Nowra" guide. Climbs are described left to
right, facing the cliff.
The following two climbs are found on the downhill side of "Little Graham's Boulder", the huge boulder opposite the
descent gully.
Cheesy Nob Licker 5m 22
A really nice juggy pump on gorgeous orange rock. A bit hard to grade, since the only really hard move is the dyno
at the start. 2 fixed hangers to a (rusty!) chain.
Shy Romantic 5m 21
A more strenuous and sustained version of the same nonsense, with 2 fixed hangers to chains. I'd recommend stick
clipping the first hanger, since the clipping position is pretty tenuous.
Now to the descent gully walls.
Woderwick 15m 17
A very pleasant warm up climb, although not particularly sustained for the grade. Crux moves from the first hanger to
the second (don't blow the clip: you might hit the block behind!), then steeper but easier climbing past another fixed
hanger to the top (take about 3 small to medium sized cams for breaks higher up). Double bolt belay (take bolt
brackets).
Lucifer 15m 10
A nice little warm up at the far right hand end of the right descent gully wall. Up to the cave, step right and up
past 2 fixed hangers and cam placements to a double bolt belay on top (take brackets).
?? 15m 18
Heads up the arete left of SLH. A nice move or two up the steep left hand side of the cave, then increasingly easily
up the slab above, trying hard not to use the holds on SLH. About 5 RBs to the double RB lower off on SLH.
Santa's Little Helper 15m 15
Easily up to the cave, then some nice thin slab moves left above the cave. Pleasantly up the crack to the horizontal
breaks, then easily to the lower off. Take 9 quickdraws, 7 for the climb and two for the lower off.
Barbie Twins 17m 16
A nice naturally protected line on the buttress right of the descent gully walls. Take small cams and wires for the
crack (#1 friends in particular) plus some larger cams for the breaks higher up. Quite tough for a 16, with a height
dependent crux to gain the juggy top section. Continue either to the top, or step right to the double ring bolt lower
off above Beavis.
World According to Garf 6m 20
Unpleasant. A steep and juggy but ridiculously greasy micro route up the right hand side of the Mini Wall. 3 RBs to
double BB belay
Orca 25m 16 (originally graded 18)
An excellent excursion up a juggy face and an airy, steep arete. Nice moves up the juggy face past a #1 camalot
placement to the first carrot bolt. Good #0.75 camalot placement between the first two carrot bolts (inside one of the
scoops), then excellent and exposed moves from the second bolt past a fixed hanger to a hands free ledge (watch out for
the vegetation to the right!). Ramble up the easy headwall past another carrot bolt and many cam placements to the
chain. Note that we couldn't lower off after tying through the chain since the lower off loop sits right on a bulge in
the rock, which pinched the rope enough to stop it from moving. We ended up just topping out then reaching down and
cleaning the draws off the chain from the top.
Slap and Tickle 14m 16
The brushed arete about 25m R of Orca. An excellent and well protected climb up a hard wall down low, then an easier
but thought provoking arete higher up. Take 7 draws, 5 for the ring bolts and 2 for the U bolt anchor.
Me 8m 16
The arete about 10m right of Slap and Tickle. A rather unexciting little climb, with two ring bolts and a chain lower
off.
Slub Motion 10m 18/21
A nice steep slab climb just right of Me. Easy and overprotected moves to the third ring bolt, then a height dependent
crux (hence the grading) over the bulge to a good pocket. Slightly more easily up past another 2 ring bolts to the U
anchor.
Vanderholics 25m 18 (originally graded 19)
A very nice route up a short slab, past a large cave and up the steep, juggy wall above. Although the upper wall looks
tough, the crux is probably on the slab, due to the numerous hidden jugs on the upper wall. Take 10 draws, 8 for the
fixed hangers on the face, and 2 for the double ring bolt lower off.
Birdsville Track 23m 20
Starts up Diddy Kong Direct, then heads left at the second ring bolt and up the line of rings left of Diddy Kong. Hard
moves to get into the flake, then easily to the second bolt. Thin moves left and up (crux) past another two ring bolts
to the hands free ledge. Another hard move past the poorly placed fifth bolt, then more easily up the steep slab above
to the lower off. Take 10 quickdraws, 8 for the climb and two for the lower off. I'd also recommend clipping the fifth
bolt with a locking gate carabiner, to lessen the chance of hitting the ledge from the sixth bolt.
Diddy Kong 24m 18
A nice, surprisingly cruisy slab climb with one hardish move at about the fourth bolt, then jugs to the top. Seven ring
bolts and double ring bolt lower off.
Gunbarrel Highway 25m 19
An excellent and sustained route up a long, steep face. A great lead, with the technical crux down low (gaining the
sloping ledge) but then sustained climbing from there almost to the chains. Surprisingly juggy for the grade, but
guaranteed to blow your arms off with the length. Take 11 draws (9 for the hangers and 2 for the chains) and maybe a
cam for the crack (although the moves to the first hanger are pretty easy). Definitely a must do climb at Thompson's
Point.
Killer Boas 10m 22
A great little problem with a thin start, a cool deadpoint at half height and a potentially heart breaking mantle at
the top. Great stuff!! 3 RBs to chain lower off. I'd recommend you stick clip the first bolt, since the moves up
to it are the technical crux and are quite insecure.
Je Baise Ma Fraigne 10m 20
A surprisingly easy, steep jug haul towards the right hand end of the Pocketed Wall. Really nice moves past three
brackets to a reachy crux just below the double ring bolt lower off (or are they cold shuts?). A great climb to dog
away at if you're not quite climbing at the grade.
NOTE: This climb has recently been rebolted and extended by about 3m. It now has 4 ring bolts and a double ring
bolt lower off. It may be slightly harder than it used to be. Click
here for details.
Real Buggers Don't Die 14m 21
A greasy, unpleasant and somewhat runout excursion up the rounded arete left of BaB. 3 fixed hangers lead to a U
anchor lower off, but I'd strongly recommend you also clip the top ring bolt on BaB, since you stand a very
good chance of hitting the tree if you fall off the upper section.
Broken and Barbed 12m 20
An excellent climb up a sustained but surprisingly juggy wall, with a balancy crux up the arete right at the top of
the climb (save some energy for the last couple of moves!). 2 fixed hangers and a ring bolt lead to two possible lower
offs - the chains 3m to the right, or the U anchor just to the left (on RBDD).
Not as Steep as Some 8m 19 (originally graded 18)
A ridiculously greasy slab climb just to the left of Petit Miam. Desperate moves past the first fixed hanger, then
more easily past another 2 hangers to a ledge with a U anchor (shared with Petit Miam).
Petit Miam 8m 16
A pleasant (but short!) jaunt up a nice compact wall (which is very greasy from millions of eager hands!). Hard
moves down low (past the first fixed hanger) then an easy jug haul to the third fixed hanger. Delicate moves over the
bulge (the rock here is ridiculously greasy from countless layers of chalk and rubber!) to a hands free ledge
below the U anchor.
A Day at the Beach 20m 21
Surprisingly easy steep jugging right up until the last couple of moves (save some fuel!). The short traverse at the
top is great! 2 carrots on the slab and 5 fixed hangers lead to a chain and shackle lower off to the left.
Kicking Dogs Balls 8m 17
Absolute shit. The low angled orange corner / flake underneath and to the right of ADATB. Despite appearances to the
contrary, this is one of the most unpleasant climbs I have ever attempted. There is a very good reason for the lower
off half way up the route: you get to that point and don't want to go any further!!
Still Life With Chalkbag (1st Pitch Only) 8m 23
The lovely, gently overhanging arete 10m right of KDB. A great route with some superb sequences and enough jugs to
keep even a bumbly like me happy. 4 rings to chain lower off.
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