How to lower off a sport route in safety

1. Pull a section of rope through the anchor ring (or rusted screwgate if you climb at Malham).

2. Tie a figure 8 loop in this bite.

3. Attach screwgate carabiner to your harness belay loop.

4. Attach the fig.8 to the carabiner.

5. Untie the original knot attached to your harness.

You can now be lowered off. NB at no time have you 'left' the system.

Don't substitute the screwgate for an extender
Don't clip the rope bite into a harness gear loop.
Waddya wanna do? Kill yourself?
Save that for the trad ...

Info and picture from Petzl. They have many more good tips: look 'em up.
And if they'd like to sponser me, I am available. Reasonable price.

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