This last section of the Coast to Coast path includes the finest section of walking since the Lake District was left behind at Shap. The Cleveland Hills on the North Yorkshire Moors at first glance seem austere but they do provide some of the finest walking in the north of England; and they come as a great relief after the drudgery of the roads and lanes of the past couple of days. So gird your loins and prepare for the last section that will see you reach Robin Hoods Bay and complete the crossing.
An early start is recommended if you have spent the night at Ingleby Cross; not because of the difficulty of the terrain nor the length of the next leg; but simply because if you are like me and my friends when we did the crossing, it is too easy to fall prey to the hospitality of mine host at the Blue Bell Inn and spend an extra day and a lot of hard earned pennies within the said premises.
From Ingleby Cross take the side road that leads past the Inn ( keep going, don't be tempted) and is signposted Arncliffe Hall and Church. Pass both of these buildings and a farm and follow the rough road until it turns sharp right. At this point go through the gate on your left and continue straight ahead to another gate giving access to a forest track. Turn right along this track and follow it for 1 mile to the forest boundary. At this point turn sharp left and follow another track signposted moors path that slants away uphill. At this point you join another walk, The Cleveland Way, whose route you share for the next 14 miles.
Follow the track up through scrub to the a wicket gate and pass through it. Continue along the path with the fence on your left and the wall on your right and you will pass a TV booster station before arriving at a trig. point at the summit of Beacon Hill. This is the traditional start of the Lyke Wake Walk; and to qualify for membership of the Lyke Wake Club the crossing has to be completed within 24 hours. If you wish you can finish your Coast to Coast by doing the Lyke Wake or if you are not so masochistic you can take a little longer and follow the traditional route to the end. The choice is yours but what a way to finish !! You don't have to make up your mind yet as to which way you are going to complete the walk for the routes are identical for the next 20½ miles.
Follow the path from the trig. point down to and through a gate onto Scarth Wood Moor from where the path heads downhill; gently at first then ever more steeply until you reach the cattle grid and road at Scarth Nick. Cross the road and go through the gate opposite onto a path leading through the forestry and signposted for the Lyke Wake. After following this path for ½ mile you will see on your left the remains of a spoil heap. Turn left and drop sharply down Lime Kiln Bank; taking especial care if the weather is wet. This bank although short is extremely steep and in wet weather can be very slippery. In recent times steps have been cut in the side of the bank but don't be too complacent. At the bottom of the bank turn sharp right before passing through the gate and follow the path along the bottom edge of the forestry. The path is clear and easy to follow. After ¾ mile in a fence on your left you will see a stile leading into a grassy field. (There may or may not be a LWW sign depending on whether or not it has been stolen again.) Cross this stile and head diagonally across the field to the gate in the bottom right hand corner. Go through the gate and into the lane beyond before turning left and crossing the ford and following the lane to the crossroads at the end. At the crossroads go straight across and along the lane at the side of the telephone box. (If you have any calls to make , make them from here for it is a long walk to the next call-box). Follow the lane for a short distance until it reaches the tree-line of a small plantation. Turn left through the gate and follow the path alongside a wire fence and through another gate into a field. Keep close to the fence and follow the path to another gate which gives access to the steep climb known locally as the Sheep Drift. Like Lime Kiln Bank this may be a short climb but again it is extremely steep and in wet weather it used to be almost impossible to ascend; but steps have been cut into the left hand side much to the relief of many hikers. Normally I am not in favour of altering the landscape in any way but in this case I am forced to admit that the measures were necessary, not only in the interest of safety but to help negate the amount of erosion on this section of a very busy part of the moors.
At the top of the Sheep Drift cross the stile and follow the path round to the left. The path is very clear (thousands of feet tramp across it on the Lyke Wake each year) as it climbs steadily towards the summit plateau of Live Moor. From Live Moor just follow the path along to Carlton Moor. Carlton Moor is the home of the Newcastle and Teesside Gliding Club and the top of the moor has been scraped off to make an airfield for them. Whatever you think of the ethics of this do not be tempted to cut across the airfield to the road opposite (your next destination) for they do not take kindly to trespassers and a glider can give you a bloody awful headache if it hits you on the back of the head. Instead keep to the path along the escarpment until you come to the spoil heaps of some alum works overlooking the road. At this point turn left and follow the path down to the junction of the road and the access road to the airfield.
Climb the wire fence opposite by way of the stile and your route is obvious as it cuts a swathe through the grass in front of you heading straight ahead and climbing up Cringle Moor. Follow the track and as it starts to climb you will come to the remains of a wall and a path leading off to your left. The "traditional" route lies straight ahead but if the weather is inclement or the you are tired the path to your left is by far the safest and easiest to take. If you do turn left route finding is easy as the path just contours round the side of three hills to bring you out at the foot of Hasty Bank onto the road at Clay Bank Top. Although the walking is easy it can get a bit wet in places but there are no real problems. Do not however be tempted to bear left onto one of the forestry roads.
For those who want to stay with the "traditional" route your path is clear in front of you. Just follow your nose up the long drag to the summit of Cringle Moor. If the weather is being kind there are some magnificent views from Cringle and to help you identify what you are seeing a view indicator has been ‘planted' on Cringle End.
From Cringle End the path leads east around the edge of the escarpment before dropping sharply almost 300 feet to some dry-stone wall enclosures. Skirt round these and pass through the gate. The path now rises steeply to regain the 300 feet you have just dropped and reach the summit of Cold Moor. A well named place in anything less than perfect weather conditions. From the summit cairn of Cold Moor history repeats itself as you once again drop steeply down 300 feet to some more dry stone wall enclosures. After passing through the enclosures the path once again climbs steeply to regain the height just lost. As you approach the summit plateau of Hasty Bank you pass through some rock stacks and pinnacles; these are the Wainstones, a well known local feature and popular climbing area. After scrambling up through the Wainstones (easy) the path follows the northern escarpment of Hasty plateau for about ¾ mile before descending steeply and diagonally toa stile in the wall abutting the forestry. Cross this stile and another one immediately afterwards to join a forestry track (the one that skirts the hills from the beginning of Cringle). Turn right and go down the steps to join the B.1257 Helmsley to Stokesley road.
This undistinguished looking piece of road is Clay Bank Top. If you turn left and follow the road for ¼ mile you may be lucky enough to find the cafe open; but don't lay too much money on it unless it is a nice sunny day in the middle of summer. Also be very careful; this road is very busy and the path brings you out on a bend where your view is severely restricted.
Cross the road and go through the gate opposite. Follow the path uphill keeping the wall to your left. Do not make the mistake of going up the forestry track on the opposite side of the wall. The path climbs steeply and passes through a cleft in the rocks; which can become very slippery in wet weather; and continues up to the stone wall near the top of the hill. Follow the old pony track keeping the wall to your left. At the end of the wall bear left and follow a broad track (the remains of a fire break) to the top of Urra Moor. At the summit of this unspectacular moor is the trig point at Botton Head. This is the highest point on the North Yorks. Moors at 1,489 ft. and offers a fine view over the industrial wasteland of Teesside. Continue along this broad path as far as the disused railway track at Bloworth Crossing. Turn right and follow this track the walking is easy and at first it comes as a relief but after a while it becomes boring and after going round several bends at the head of various dales you begin to wonder if there is an end to this part of the walk. Don't despair, eventually you come to a point where you can see some buildings at the top of a ridge to your left. This welcome sight is the Red Lion Inn. Follow the short path that leads up the slope at the back of the pub and it brings you out conveniently near the front door and if you have timed your walk correctly that door could well be open.
The Red Lion is an excellent establishment. It serves a choice of very good beers; its food is of a high standard, whether you have a bar snack or a full meal ; it caters for B&B, though this is best booked in advance for space is limited and although it does not have any camping facilities, a polite request to the landlord usually gets you permission to camp in the adjoining field over-night.
You can now see White Cross (map ref :-NZ 677019) about 1½ miles away across the head of Rosedale. You have a choice. You can either walk round the road to it or you can follow a path that you can see heading across the head of the dale. It's your walk so take your pick. The walk round the road is certainly further distance wise but there is very little in it time-wise. If the weather is bad or the ground is wet then it is probably best to stick to the road.
Before starting this section you have a choice to make. Are you going to stick with Wainwright and go on the longer traditional route to complete the walk or are you going to complete the Lyke Wake Walk and qualify for the club and badge. Those wishing to do the latter should now follow this link to my Lyke Wake Walk page and follow the description there. On reaching Ravenscar it is a short and easy walk along the coast to Robin Hoods Bay following the Cleveland Way track.
Those of you that prefer to complete the walk as Wainwright did it read on below.
Follow the road east for about ¾ mile until you come to a track on your left with a wooden signpost to Fryup declaring the ‘road' unsuitable for motor vehicles ( a totally unnecessary piece of information ). Turn left along this track and follow it for about ½ mile before turning right along a path on the right which heads for the building you can see. This is Trough House, an old shooting hut and a useful shelter when the weather gets bad; as it can often do in these parts. The path continues past Trough house and past an area of old mine workings before becoming indistinct as it contours round the head of Great Fryup Dale. It then continues along the eastern rim of the dale to join the Lealholm to Rosedale road.
Turn left along this road and follow it for almost a mile until an Ordnance Survey column comes into view at the side of the road at a point where the road bends slightly left. Just before the column turn right and follow the track along Glaisdale Rigg as it descends towards the village of Glaisdale. At the end of the Rigg is a stone wall and the path bears left towards a gate. Go through this and join the tarmac road beyond. Go down past the old hall and the housing estate before turning right to the village proper and the railway station.
Glaisdale, although small is a good place for hikers. It has a shop, accommodation and a pub. If you are in need of an overnight break what more could you ask for ? (Don't answer !)
Just past the railway station take the path on your right which crosses the footbridge and enters East Arncliffe Wood. The path is easy to follow even though it is overgrown a little in places. After ¾ mile it eventually emerges onto a tarmac road and you turn left. Follow this road for the mile down into Egton Bridge and the pub. Turn right into the ‘private' estate of Egton Manor. Don't worry this is not a trespass; it is a public right of way. This road runs for 1¼ miles, past a farm house and a former Toll House before joining the Egton to Grosmont road. Turn right and after a short walk along the tarmac you come to the village of Grosmont.
Grosmont is the northern terminus of the ‘North Yorkshire Moors Railway' and as such gets very crowded; especially on summer weekends. Cross the level crossing and you see your route stretched out before you in the shape of a long steep hill. It is in fact 1 in 3 although to me it always feels steeper. Before attempting the descent I recommend that you call in the Station at the foot of the hill. No not the one with the steam trains; I mean the one with the fine beer. It will not make the hill less steep but if you have enough by the time you come out you will not care and you will zig-zag your way up without any effort.
Once you have been suitably refreshed it is time to ascend the hill. Route finding is simple, (even for anyone who is over refreshed) just follow the road for about 1 mile, ignoring turnings to the left until you come to a cattle grid. You are now back to open moorland, and after the woods and lanes of the previous section it comes as a welcome relief. After crossing the cattle grid bear half right to Low Bide Stones across what in bad weather can be very marshy ground. On reaching these High Bride Stones can be seen a little over ¼ mile away to your left and the path you take makes a bee-line for them. From here the path heads due east to cross the road and reach the tumulus on Flat Howe. Continue due east to cross the A.169, Whitby - Pickering road at a signpost indicating the way to Littlebeck. (If you look to your left the monstrous giant pyramid you can see is the early warning station of R.A.F. Fylingdales. To your left can be seen the town of Whitby with its Abbey perched on the cliff top and just beyond can be seen your ultimate goal, the North Sea.)
Follow the rough track indicated by the signpost across open ground to enter a lane. Follow this lane down and after a short distance it joins a road which is followed down a steep descent into the village of Littlebeck. Littlebeck is a pretty little village but unfortunately you do not have the time to stop and admire it for you still have a further 12 miles to go to reach the finish at Robin Hoods Bay. After Crossing the stream you come to a seat on your right. Opposite this a is the start of a signed footpath to Falling Foss and this is the way you want to be heading. The footpath is easy to follow as long as you ignore the two paths leading off to your left in the early stages. Follow the path up the valley and after about ½ mile you will come to a large hollowed out boulder (the Hermitage). At this point the Falling Foss forest trail is joined on the upper of the two paths and heading for Newton House (a field centre). Do not enter the field centre but continue along the path outside the estate walls and descending through trees to Falling Foss. Pass in front of Midge Hall (a museum), cross the footbridge and follow the path upstream to the stone bridge. Do not cross this bridge but continue upstream along a path signposted to May Beck. After a short while the path crosses the stream via some stepping-stones and continues along the opposite bank. Ignore all the forest trail signs and the footbridge and you will eventually come out into May Beck car-park.
From the car-park follow the tarmac road up the hill and past New May Beck Farm. Just beyond the farm strike right across the open moor to join the B.1416 . A gated road running north from the end of a plantation leads all the way into the village of Hawsker 3 miles away. [Wainwright in his coast to coast guide details a more circuitous route over open moor to reach Hawsker but the route is difficult to find on the ground; the paths being almost invisible; and takes much longer to complete, something that needs to be taken into consideration if you wish to reach the finish today. If you are really short of time then Robin Hoods Bay is only a little over 3 miles away by road. Just follow the B.1416 to the right until it joins the A.171 Whitby - Scarborough road, turn left and after ¾ mile you turn right along a road leading directly into R.H.B.]
From the village street of Hawsker follow the road signposted Robin Hoods Bay and at the point where the road bends right continue straight ahead along a lane past a caravan sight and cross the track of a disused railway. Continue down the lane to Northcliffe Caravan Site and go through it on the left hand road and along a path with a beck on your left until you come to the Cleveland Way path overlooking the sea above Maw Wyke Hole. Turn right and follow this coastal path for 2¼ miles. The path is well used and easy to follow although does seem to be an inordinate number of walls and fences to cross.
After rounding Ness Point you can see your ultimate destination spread out below you and it is an easy stroll to the top of the bay. On reaching the village it is simple to find your way down to the sea. Just look for the one road that leads downwards. It is an extremely steep hill but it is nice to think that you now have only ¼ mile to go down to the sea and complete the crossing .
Robin Hoods Bay
Well Done
After finishing I suppose you are thinking of celebrating; well you have a choice of three pubs to do it in. Be warned DO NOT get thrown out of any one of them. The same man owns all three and getting scratched from one automatically disbars you from entering the other two.
THE LAUREL
Near the top of the steep road down into the village. This one serves food (as do the others) but it is especially noted for its beer. It is quite simply the best in the bay. It is a small pub but it is warm with a friendly atmosphere.
THE BAY HOTEL
At the bottom of the village overlooking the sea. This one serves the best food locally but unfortunately although its beer is drinkable it is nowhere near the standard of the Laurel (in my opinion).It is a large place with plenty of seating, a nice friendly atmosphere and a magnificent view of the bay and sea (especially if it is rough). The sea washes the front of the building at high tide.
THE DOLPHIN
Fifty yards from the Bay Hotel this is a nice friendly little pub where everyone is made to feel welcome. If you are there on a Friday evening then this pub has the added bonus of being the home of the local folk club; and very good it is.
THE END
Details of Accommodation, along the Coast to Coast can be found by following this link to http://www.coast2coast.co.uk
