© 2002 Will
The Word: A classic roof, little else.
Sun/shade: It's a roof - shady all day!
Wet weather options: Yep!
Style of Climbs: A roof. There's some little wall climbs, and some bouldering too.
Grades: 21-24
Best Route(s): Clocks (** 22)
The Details: Notable for the excellent (and photogenic!) roof down near the water on the S (harbour) side. There are numerous climbs, mainly variants, which head out across the roof and lip. There is also some OK bouldering on the western side, just below the exit road, as well as various other routes along the southern side - see guidebook.
Access: Within walking distance of Waverton station. Walk down below the car park to find the big block. There are pleasant cracks (16, 17) on the side of the block.
** Clocks 12m 22 (RP)
Excellent roof work! Start in the back of the roof at the big bolt. Head out through centre of roof directly towards Harbour Bridge and fixed 'biner, past 5 BRs. Pause photogenically (for about half a film!) and then lower off 'biner - it's pretty old now, or exit R-ish up crack to top. My first 22 redpoint.
To see what it looks like, have a look at my photos of Balls Head.
For a complete description of all Sydney crags, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.
© 2002 Will