> Will's Climbing Page > Crags > Sydney > Bangor

Bangor

The Word: One of Sydney's best beginner/toproping crags.
Sun/shade: Shady most of the day.
Wet weather options: None.
Style of Climbs: 10-12m vertical routes, trad and mixed.
Grades: 8-23
Best Route(s): -

The Details: A very convenient crag, good for half days or for beginners, or just for churning through a stack of routes in a single day.

Access: Park in Arunta Close, Bangor. Walk through between houses at the end of a firetrack. Follow this 10m R to the first descent gully, or 30m to the second; both gullies are about 8m from the track. R (facing the cliff) of the bottom of the first gully is the prominent crack of Lean Too; the first climb L from the gully is Rainman. Routes are described from R to L. Most are initialled and/or obvious. There are double bolts at the top of almost every climb.

* Dorothy May 12m 16 (YP)
Steep start, 1m R of Lean Too. Heel hook your way L-ish and up onto face, then more easily to top.

Andrew's Bulge 9m 16 (YP)
OK. 3 BR I think. You'd be dafd (sic) to solo it!

* Python 9m 17 (OS)
Not too bad. Shiny new FH distinguish this one.

* End Of The Decade 11m 20/21 (OS)
Undercling up to jug (all the way, not the lower one), then heel hook out along traverse line. Out to arete and use a small L hand crimper to head up onto the face above, and into jugs. Very short, and more like 20. Click here to see a photo of this climb.

Unzip 9m 17 (RP)
Again, needs a long reach to get around lip and up to juggy break. Head on up - can even bottom belay, as bolts are very close to edge.

For a complete description of all Sydney crags, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.