Black Ian's Rocks

The Word: Fantastic....but small.
The Crag Classic(s): Objection Sustained, Subpoena
The Hidden Gem: bouldering
Best Season(s): Anytime except summer.
Sun/shade: Morning sun, then starts getting shade around 1-2pm.
Wet weather options: Yeah Black Ian's is probably worth a look if its wet - zero walk in, and the camping cave will keep all your gear dry. Better yet, some of the steeper routes would withstand some rain, plus bouldering is always possible.
Style & Length of Climbs: 12-15m, mainly trad though there are several face routes with bolts.
Rock type: Superb Grampians sandstone.
Guidebook(s): Mentz/Tempest Grampians Select (Page 113-123)
Available Grades; Best Grades: 11-26; best grades are around 16-18 and 24

Black Ian's Rocks viewed from Red Rocks Rd, with all described routes initialled.

The Details: Possibly the best quality rock in Australia. An excellent little crag, well within reach from both Araps and the Gramps. Not huge, but there's still plenty of climbs. The camping area and water tank are very thoughtful additions by the private landholder, so drop a few bob in the payment box.

Access: 4hrs from Melbourne, 20mins from Stapylton campground, 1min walk-in. Use the map link given below. From the junction of Clarke Lane and Red Rock Rd, drive W along Red Rock Rd for 800m, around a 90 degree L hand bend, then S for about 1km. About 100m before the road takes a sweeping L hand bend, there is a camping area "Red Rock Camp" on the R side (W) of the road. Even if you're not camping, drive all the way up to the back of the campsite to where there is a water tank and a tin shelter. The walk-in starts just beside the shelter and its about 50m up to the obvious short orange cliffs, where you will arrive just near the camping cave.

Descent(s): Walk downs at either end. Not a bad idea to take a spare rope and fix it for rapping off. IMO a proper rap anchor should be installed to save damage to the descent gullies and rap trees.

Described L to R.

Habeus Corpus 18m 14 (YP)
Not a bad beginner's lead, but beware the large loose blocks at the start of the traverse.

* Decree Nisi 15m 16 (OS)
Good climbing, good gear.

Marie cruises up Decree Nisi
With admirers .
.
.
.

** Objection Sustained 15m 18 (OS)
Would get another star if it was longer or if it had a few more compulsory jambs!! Still, it's great fun and on superb rock.

Anne Laure reaches the overhung crux section on Ojection Sustained

* Malicious Intent 15m 21 (OS)
Would also get another star if the crux wasn't 3 grades harder than the rest. (Or if the rest wasn't 3 grades easier than the crux!).

** Subpoena 21m 17 (YP)
Excellent climbing, magic rock. The corner crack about 50m R of track. Thin hand jambs and stemming to an airy finish. #1 cams take precisely 2 hours to clean - so don't use 'em!

Yeah! How good is that Black Ians rock?? Adam jamming in pro during the onsight.
Subpoena

аааааааааааааа

More Internet Sites on Black Ian's Rocks Climbing

Victorian Climbing Club (VCC) go here to check for new routes, and/or upcoming trips to this area.

Bureau of Meteorology Navigate to "Wimmera" - Horsham's weather is the closest.

Australian Maps Enter "Red Rock" as the street and "Mockinya" as the suburb (and Victoria as the state).

Parks Victoria Park information, downloadable maps, etc.

Parks Victoria Education Resource Kit A fascinating explanation of Grampians climate, geology, wildlife, vegetation, soils, history, park management, and visitor impacts.

Chockstone The best site on Victorian climbing gives a good little coverage.

TheCrag.com As always. Record your Black Ian's ticks here, and see what everyone else is climbing.

й 1997-2004 Will