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Brim Springs

Really rather insignificant as far as Grampians crags go, but nevertheless this one is still worth a visit or two, especially given the brilliant flat access. Follow Asses Ears Rd from the Mt Victory Rd (the turn-off is a few kms N of Zumsteins). After about 8 kms, the Wallaby Track comes in from the left, trend R here and continue SW for 4kms to cross Brim Springs Ck, and a further 800m is a clearing with a signpost saying "Brim Springs". Park about 50m further on the L, where an old firetrail thingame heads off L towards the obvious cliff 300m away. The firetrail/path winds around a bit, but stick with it because the scrub bash would suck! It initially trends L of where you want to go, then bends sharply back R so much that it's not getting any nearer to the cliff! However, from this bend, follow the firetrail for about another 100m (not getting closer to the cliff), to where a good path breaks off L into the dense scrub straight for the cliff. This section is marked by tape on trees. The path is good all the way, if you find yourself crawling under stuff you've strayed off onto animal tracks. It's a very easy flat 10mins walk.

The cliff itself is only about 150m long, but is mainly 50-75m in height so there's plenty of stone mileage to cover. The descent for all routes R of Supernuts is to walk down the R end of the cliff, for routes further L I believe you have to either do an upper tier route or do an exposed traverse to a tree for a 50m rap. Routes described R to L.

* Houdini 50m 15 (OS)
Blocky corner below big glassy overhang, 8m L of "Recess Wall". Avoid the roof via rising traverse off R (the cracked flake is loose, take care) to belay ledge at 20m. Lovely slabby corner crack continues for 20m, nice jamming, though beware more loose blocks at half height. Tricky moves up to roof where the crux hand traverse (ok hands, but no feet) heads off 5m R to finish up RW. The direct finish is still awaiting a FA (the lovely 6m fused orange corner), looks gr20+ with 50/50 microwires for pro.

Houdini Semi-Direct Finish 6m 17 (OS)
An important route! (not). Rather pleasant, worth remembering if there's a group on RW. Do the first move out from under the roof on the crux hand traverse of H, then mantle. Staying 1.5m R of the (as yet unclimbed) orange corner, follow thin crimps up wall past good wire them more easily to sloping break. Step R to rejoin original for final bulge. FA (?) W Monks, N Cotton 17/11/01. (Rather than mantling onto the hand traverse, the second laybacked the roof and corner at 18/19, before stepping R to the crimps).

Supernuts 57m 15 (OS)
Technique will get you through the tricky start, but it's still not 14! Almost earns a star, good continuous climbing on P1, and fun easy jughauling in a nice position on P2. 1) (25m 15) Good wires, wide stemming and a few fingerlocks unlocks the start, then the surprisingly tricky corner crack on great rock, beware some loose flakes. Trend L out big bulge, and nice steep juggy traverse out L around the small bush avoids the glassy steep crack. Step back R over the bulge to good belay stance (#1 Frs, med-large wires). 2) (32m 6) Up the jug infested wall staying L of the crack, negotiate a juggy bulge then to treed ledge. Can belay here but best to step R and continue 15m up arete until it's safe to walk off.

More Internet Sites on Brim Springs

Victorian Climbing Club (VCC) go here to check for new routes, and/or upcoming trips to this area.

Bureau of Meteorology Navigate to "Wimmera" - Horsham's weather is the closest.

Australian Maps Enter "Camerons Rd" as the street and "Laharum" as the suburb (and Victoria as the state).

Parks Victoria Park information, downloadable maps, etc.

Parks Victoria Education Resource Kit A fascinating explanation of Grampians climate, geology, wildlife, vegetation, soils, history, park management, and visitor impacts.

TheCrag.com As always. Record your Brim Springs ticks here, and see what everyone else is climbing.