Buchan

The Amphitheatre

The Details: So you want a limestone hit and think this is it? Think again...it's not limestone at it's best. But worth a visit, especially if you're in the area anyway. It's not a bad little wall, though the routes seem over-starred to me. Beware sharp edges when lowering off. There's good camping at the caves campground in Buchan itself, and once your climbing enthusiasm runs out there's also caving and wonderful alpine scenery within cooee. (Incidentally this probably should be called Slunt Wall, as there can be little doubt that the route "Sheiss" was in fact climbed earlier and called Slunt.)

Access: 15min walk plus a wade, or a 25min walk. It's a 5min drive from Buchan along the Orbost Rd, ~4hrs drive from Melbourne. Drive 6.2kms from Buchan towards Orbost, where a wooden bridge crosses the Buchan River. You will have already noticed the crag off to the right across the fields and the river. You can walk from the closest point on the road direct towards the crag, which requires wading the river (which flows strongly after rain - not recommended). For this access, ask permission at the farmhouse on the left just before the bridge for permission to cross the land on the road side of the river, AND ask at Amberley Park (3kms past the bridge on the R), for permission to enter the land on the far side of the river. Alternatively, you can avoid the wade by parking just over the bridge and walking 25mins back up the river (initially staying high to avoid some scrub), which takes you past Englishman's Castle. You only need permission from Amberley Park this way. Either way you'll have to dodge some blackberries, jump a few electric fences and greet a few cows.

Here's the view as you approach from Buchan. Englishman's Castle is hidden, directly behind the outcrop.

Described L to R, facing the cliff.

Verdonesque (9m 24) looks sort of ok but a total misnomer - it's pretty pathetic in comparison to the real thing, given it doesn't have the massive exposure, great views, perfect rock, or 10 more pitches! (It's the left arete of the main wall, marked in the photo below).

** Avignon 12m 20 (OS) A lovely steep sustained stemming problem, overhung by about 1m. Not sure why the guide would give it 22 - that's way off. Start just L of the central corner of the crag, then step R to start stemming below the second bolt and up you go. The lower off is badly positioned and pinches your rope against the rock - extend it if others are going to follow. My rope is visible on it in the photos on the R and below. * Vous les Vou 12m 19 (OS) Marked in the photo on the R. One star at most. High 1st RB (#1.5Fr possible below), then step up L onto the bulge and meander up the thin arete above past several uninspiring holds. A nice steep juggy finish is all that earns the star. Sheiss (aka Slunt) 12m 15 (OS) The warm up - unfortunately its very ordinary. Start as for VlV (clip its RB if you like), then trend R up the slabby crack with good pro to the small bush. Mediocre wires on the R protect the moves up the small corner above to the lower off. The route description for Slunt on Slunt Wall matches this route perfectly (except that I'd give this route 15 rather than 14) - see the 2002 Eastern Victoria guide p335. Here's another view of the crag, showing how steep the right end is. Too bad the holds have all come off...

Armchair Flat, with 4 routes marked

Englishman's Castle

Murrindal

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