Will's Rock Climbing Page > Crags > AU > Vic > The Grampians > Bundaleer | Last updated: March 2007 |
The Details: My opinion of this crag is probably irrelevant, but for what its worth I think Bundaleer is reasonably over rated. If you can’t lead 23 plus, this crag is only worth a few visits.
Access: From Halls Gap, head up the Mt Victory Rd, turn L and along to Mt Rosea campground. Turn R here along Rosea Track and follow it for about 2kms, until a dirt road heads L. Follow this for about 1.5km S, and park about 100m before a gate (which is locked throughout winter - until 31 Oct). Walk up the obvious track to the 'rock step', which is hard to recognise unless you know that it's a little 4m high escarpment which forces the track to veer R almost into the creek for the first time. Once above this 'rock step', veer diagonally up L on a track which soon becomes obvious.
Descent(s): Most 1 pitch routes have rap anchors, many others top out requiring a walk down a small gully R of Scarab to a rap station (don't use the tree), 25m to the ground.
Described R to L.
Live Action 20m 20 (YP)
Steep and poorly protected start is a bit of a downer, then up the nicely steep wall above with a goodly pump developing. Walk 20m L to the rap station.
** Gerontian 60m 17 (OS all)
I really enjoyed this route a lot, it has stacks of good climbing and is really consistent in difficulty level. Unfortunately the crux is a little sandbagged, often coated in winter filth, and not that well protected. Still, if that's manageable for you it's a brilliant line. 1) (* 20m 15) Not much to write home about, steeper and more delicate than it looks from memory. 2) (** 20m 17) The brilliant square cut corner which unfortunately can be dirty and which has an old pin which ain't good for much these days. I think a big cam would help here. 3) (** 20m 17) Fantastic exposed technical steepness underclinging around the underside of a flake. Walk 80m R along the top to the descent gully.
** Pathos 25m 21 (PP)
It's reputation is of being fiercely difficult for 21 and a total megaclassic. IMO it's neither. If anything it's a little soft for 21 (even though I fell off it), because the crux is so damn short and the rest is about 16 - which is also why I don't reckon it's a 3 star route. Anyway it's definitely fantastic and if you don't mind fingerlocks you'll walk up it (so long as you don't decide to reverse the crux instead of grabbing the victory jug!!) (total brain fade on my behalf....). Rap off.
![]() |
![]() |
* Blanketty Blank 25m 20 (OS)
Ok, but you need to be pretty confident with your gear and bring extenders etc. I also remember the face crux at half height being pretty solid for the grade. Good route though.
![]() |
![]() |
* Manic Depressive 15m 25 (L)
Yet another Bundaleer route with a reputation it can't live up to. Precariously scale the enormous stupid cairn, then start with a hideous crimp campus. From there up it's quite ok but unfortunately this stupid start completely loses my interest.
![]() |
![]() |
* Dagon's Temple 25m 22 (OS)
A superb technical thin crack ruined by a hideous overhung trench. Not much more to say.
![]()
|
![]()
|
Enter Sandman 15m 21 (YP)
The first move is the crux, with jugs all the way home. No way is this 22, although the moves are quite fun and it would deserve a star if not for the soft rock. Nice new ringbolts.
© 1998-2007 Will