Access: Follow the signposted track from the campsite for a good 10 minutes and you can't miss it. The guide is particularly deficient in not mentioning the dangerous downclimb off the top of the tor - keep your second on belay to inspect the correct way down as there is deathfall potential if you get it wrong. Luckily its easy boulder hopping mostly, the only hard bit of downclimbing is the last 6m. Its a great looking crag though, especially the Epic wall!
* Son of Epic 25m 16 (OS)
A really great route up your classic granite rounded slabby arete. The unprotected start is a touch worrying, and you'd reckon with the bolts up higher being only 2m apart another one down the bottom wouldn't have gone astray!! Anyway, the unprotected 10m start (about grade 14) leads to rest at break. 3 carrots and great smearing moves lead up the arete just as the amazing view heaves into sight - off the top of the Buffalo plateau practically all the way to Melbourne over the top of the southern Victorian Alps.
© 1999-2004 Will