> Will's Climbing Page > Crags > Sydney > Clovelly

Clovelly

The Word: Really good.
Sun/shade: Sun until midday.
Wet weather options: Steep (21), Dead Man's Fingers (24+), and maybe Barknuckles.
Style of Climbs: 10-15m toprope problems plus some well-bolted sport-routes.
Grades: 8-25
Best Route(s): Steep

The Details: One of the best Eastern Suburbs seacliffs. There are also several tempting climbs round here that aren't documented.

Access: This good small area is about 1km S of the Bronte cliff line, and is approached from the corner of Ocean St. and Eastbourne Ave. (just N of Clovelly bay). Cross Burrows park towards a gully on the S side. This leads to a rock platform and the routes. The L wall of the gully has some nice bouldering/toproping, as does a small wall about 20m S of Sarah. If you're keen to do Solidarity (** 20), come at low tide and calm seas! The same goes if you want to walk around to the climbs N of Barknuckles, otherwise rap in off concrete block at top, about 130m N of gully.

Sarah L Variant 7m 18 (YP)
The thin slab just L of Sarah, without using the seam on the L or the juggy arete on the R. Finish as for Sarah. Good, but way short.

Sarah 7m 8 (YP)
The low angled L corner at bottom of gully. Not a bad climb to practice traditional leading.

Peter 7m 16 (TR)
The shallow red corner 2m R of Sarah, step R to pull roof.

* Peter R Variant 7m 21/22 (YP)
A nice hard sequence 1m R of P. From jugs in break, up to sidepull, then a big R hand crank to get L hand to slopers at full extension. Another move to gingerly gain jugs under roof, then exit as for P.

Disparity Direct 7m 22/23
Start 3m R of P at chipped pocket. Hands in break, L foot in pocket, then a big reach to so-so pocket. Very balancy to go out R past crystals to sidepull, then extremely delicate footwork to extend up to large L hand sidepull.

Flag Fall 9m 16 (YP)
An arching corner 15m R of Peter.

Just to the L of DMF are a few others which look good before the sandy top.

Dead Mans Fingers 12m 24+
The line of RB running up the steep arete to DRB lower off under the roof, about 50m N of Barknuckles - or 30m S of the big concrete block. Worrisome to clip first RB, easier to traverse from the L. Slimy at the bottom, becoming sandier to 3rd RB. Very hard past this on tiny slopers, to break. Sandy mantle (which I backed off doing) would see you at the 4th RB. Very yucky.

* Steep 8m 22 (L)
The 2 RB to DRB out the roof about 20m N of DMF, 10m S of concrete block. Quite worrying to clip the first RB - bring a stick or some good spotters! Get a boost to hand traverse, then out to RB using awkward heelhooks. Big move from sandy sloper next to bolt up through great jugs to clip 2nd RB. Then continue up and L to fat flake below dish, and big move up to break just above DRB. Lower off. Pretty nice.
To see what it looks like, have a look at my photos.

Unnamed #1 12m 15 (OS)
Directly below the rap off the concrete block. 3 galvanized BBs, with a ring and rusty BB for the top. Mantle over 1st BB, then step up to 2nd using sandy flake. Veer L onto fragile jugs, and past 3rd BB to ring, then mantle. Belay off concrete block, plus a cam or two. An ok easy exit route.

Just to the R is an overhanging arete which goes at 23, and looks good. To see what it looks like, have a look at my photos.

For a complete description of all Sydney crags, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.