The Coke Ovens, Wolgan Valley, Blue Mountains

A view of the main section of the Coke Ovens cliff. I've marked Pantihose, as the guidebooks have had trouble locating it for the past 20 years! If you look closely you can see Andrew high on his arete (still a project) on Coke Ovens Upper.
The Coke Ovens

** Wars of the Roses 72m 20
Although this route got a bad rap in the UBM guide, from all reports it's an absolute classic, and none of the important blocks are loose. It looks pretty damn fantastic to me, that orange rock is incredibly good.

Glowing orange rock - woohoo!

Sod Wall
The first route done at the Coke Ovens tackled this impressive 65m slab. All the routes on it are well worth doing. Note, the bush at 20m is all that's left of the rap tree! The stylish corner is Grunter (** 16), also well worth doing.

Shit! Oh Dear! Wall

** Sizzler 30m 18
A very foreshortened view of this magnificent 30m splitter crack.

Sizzling!

Michelle grappling with the roof late in the day....I'll try not to mention the epic they had after I left! :-))

Oh ok then, you twisted my arm: they over-cammed a #3 camalot and only ending up cleaning it well after dark with the aid of a headtorch!!

Decline and Fall 99m 18
I reckon this looks great. The 18m corner crack shown here would be a great single pitch (rap chains anyone?).

Mmmm splitter crack in orange rock....

** Sap 49m 17
Best done as a 27m 15. This is me on the awesome section, it's a convenient 28m rap off the tree. You can see the Coke Ovens Upper roof at top left. And that ferny, vegetated crack on the right is an absolutely beautiful splitter crack - would someone please give it another clean?!?!

Sap

Click here to see a description of routes at this cliff.


© 2000 Will

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