Diamond Bay

The Word: The best Eastern Suburbs seacliff.
Sun/shade: Sun until late afternoon.
Wet weather options: Bow Wall perhaps.
Style of Climbs: Vertical bolted routes.
Grades: 16-26
Best Route(s): Redneck Brother, Ordeal by Fur

The Details: A good little area with a few great routes on two smooth walls, and a few other goodies. I can't recommend anything at all in Rosa Gully or further N - we've looked around, and to be brutally honest, it looks crap. However, it's a very interesting walk N from Rosa Gully along the walkway embedded in the cliff - a relic of WWII?

Access: Consult a road map for Diamond Bay Rd. The S gully is Diamond Bay, the N gully is Rosa Gully. To reach Diamond Bay proper, walk down a hideous line of holds and ladders on the S side, which is visible from the top of Ordeal by Fur et al. Climbs are described from S to N.

* Redneck Brother 18m 22 (L)
A fair route up a good looking wall. Start 4m R of corner. Up wall to BR on ledge, pass two more BRs and up final wall. (#3 and #4 friends) to a gumby BB.

Gloucester Buckets 12m 20 (L)
Jugathon - chipped holds. Wall and crack 2m R of Mompox to sloping crack at top. 5 BRs. Marked. To see what this climb looks like, have a look at my photos.

* LP 10m 16 (YP)
The short corner just R of the ladder, with a variety of interesting finishes.

* Sleazy Mission 10m 20 (YP)
Very delicate and pleasant. The blunt arete 3m R of LP past 2 BRs. At ledge step R and follow corner.

Thin 10m 19 (RP)
Up the thin crack 6m R of LP, move L and up.

* The Corner 18m 16 (YP)
A good line offering laybacking and jamming. The corner on the N side of the cove.

For a complete description of all Sydney crags, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.

© 2002 Will