Earlwood

The Details: Small but surprisingly worthwhile. A good offering of routes across a good range of grades.

Access: To get there by train, get to Bardwell Park. Between Turrella station and Bardwell Park, look out R, and the crag is visible on the other side of the gully, as is a concrete bridge for water pipes. From Bardwell Park, go to the south side of the railway line, and turn L into Slade Rd, then L again into Powys Ave. Jump the mesh fence, cross the railway, and head back E towards Turrella along the car track (snake territory!) until you get to the concrete bridge. Climb onto it, and cross the creek. Jump the fence at the other end, and then follow the track up and R to the cliff. You can also park at the top of the crag and walk down the stairs (marked in a street directory).

* Science of Imaginary Solutions 9m 19 (OS)
The line of FH at the L end of the wall. Stick clip and batman to first. R hand to good crimp, L hand to small sloper next to 2nd FH. Good jug up and R, best to clip 2nd from here. Another jug in pocket up L, then to chalked break, which isn't great. Clip 3rd FH. Up to tiny R hand intermediate, lift feet (crux), then R hand to huge jug about 3 feet below chains. Interesting mantle up to L hand sidepull, then clip chains. Well worth doing.

Kaboobi 9m 22+ (TR)
The line of rings to DRB. Balancy off the ground, past RB to break and 2nd RB. Hard move up to 2 finger sidepull in pocket - mantle or undercling with poor feet. Continue up L to jug in break, clip 3rd ring. Either straight up (looks very hard), or (crux) traverse R to jug just out of reach. Reachy up through the 2 ramps past 3rd ring to DRB.

Cornered Again 9m 15 (YP)
The L corner crack of the central slab. Ok. Cams/hexes.

* Whistling in the Dark 9m 19 (OS)
One of the best here. Start below the carrot on the central slab. Easily to carrot, then a nice slab move to FH. Hard to jugs, and some big moves to slopers in breaks past final FH to chain. There's a jug just R of the chains to top out, or lower off. Warning - the top slopers are disgusting when it's humid.

Meat Puppets 9m 21 (L)
Wires up flake, to FH. Nice undercling move to crimp just up and L of knob, then I dunno. Maybe it's a 24-ish dyno to the jug beside the chains, or else finish L up WitD (I did), with more generous pro.

Warm it Up 9m 14 (YP)
Not bad. Some good small wires and laybacking moves up flake, then past FH, run it out up R to top.

* Slabmaster 6m 22 (OS)
My first 22 onsight!!! Start about 20m R of WiU below line of 3 RB. Don't cheat by leaning over to start on 2nd hold!! Start at lowest hold, pull up to a heel hook round R (body tension makes it more solid), and L hand up to good jug. Big move to get R hand up to height of 1st RB, then L hand to nose beside RB and clip. R hand to a good hold 6 inches above, then L hand a long way up to next break and clip 2nd RB. Another move to final break, clip 3rd, then big lunge to positive holds on top. Good value, although with a decent landing it'd be called a boulder problem.

Wuss in Boots 6m 14 (OS, solo)
Bush bash up to boulder above track, about 30m R of Slabmaster. No pro. Undercut start, just L of the 2 carrots (which goes at 15). Up arete on jugs, then a bit slopey at the top. FA Will Monks (in boots!), Dec 97.

For a complete description of all Sydney crags, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.

© 2002 Will