Fang Buttress
The Word: Bold beauties close to camp.
The Crag Classic: XI (** 18)
The Hidden Gem: Being able to duck up here for "one route before breakfast" or "one last route before dinner".
Sun/shade: Most routes get morning sun, although with routes around 270 degrees of the pinnacle you can find a shady route here any time.
Wet weather options: Worth a try, at least because it's so convenient. The business end of most routes should stay dry unless there's been enough rain to cause seepage. However all routes have easy vertical/slabby finishes which will get wet, and you'd have to belay in the rain too. The descent would be safe enough in the wet.
Style & Length of Climbs: Vertical or slightly overhung, 30m.
Available Grades; Best Grades: 11-26; 14-23
The Details: Although it gets easy to ignore after you walk past it a hundred times, this really is quite a stunning piece of rock when viewed from the top of the Plaque Area. Took me 7 years of visits to Araps before I did a route here but I'll be back sooner next time!
Access: 2mins walk. Wander up past the L side of the Plaque Area.
Descent(s): Above Fang is a big wedged boulder on top - squeeze under the R side of this and you're at the base of Ali's. Wander back down around the buttress.
Described L to R.
** XI 30m 18 (OS)
Fantastic climbing, but the start is bold. In fact it's more than bold - the gear is complete shit until the crack! And there are grade 18 moves to get there, with the only thing between you and a 12m grounder being shitty RPs behind loose flakes (give them a rap with your knuckles and you'll hear what I mean). Anyway, it starts below the bottomless crack up the front of the L hand "buttress". Up the glassy slab to the base of the gorgeous orange wall (RP possible on L). Up the blanker orange wall past the scary flakes and 2 chopped bolts (gees if the FA himself thought it needed a bolt why not leave it!?!?), then a super-committing move over a small bulge and into the crack. Good pro up the cracks, then a great move across R followed by steep funkness through the top bulge. Easy juggy 8m finish.
* Mandible 40m 19 (flash)
My first real new route at Arapiles! It looked pretty intimidating so I must admit to a quick abseil inspection, but was delighted for it to go at such a reasonable grade! Takes in most of the good climbing of Mantis, adds an excellent fingery traverse, and then throws in a steep technical arete in a lovely airy position, all on great rock! Up Mantis for 15m to below roof. Hand traverse 7m L to arete, then a few technical steep moves up arete to easier ground. Double ropes. Small cams essential for traverse. Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth 17/4/04
Mandible - Mark enjoying the great position on the arete on the second ascent.
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* Preying 36m 18 (OS)
Felt so good after doing Mandible that I leapt on this one ground up (well, apart from the fact that it shares the first 20m with Mandible!) :) With only half the traverse and more mainstream moves its certainly not as good as Mandible, but the steep juggy top bulge is good fun! As for Mandible, but halfway across the traverse head straight up middle of wall above, and through steepest part of the juggy top bulge. There's some loose looking flakes - they all held a tug, but take care. Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth 17/4/04
Preying - me approaching the nice steep top bulge. The traverse line of Mandible is quite obvious 2m below my feet. A climber is on XI at far left, while the guy on abseil is sussing the gear (or lack of) on Strolling
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Mantis - Nic cruising up to the crux roof. The traverse line of Mandible is quite obvious 3m above and to the left. XI takes the face just this side of the far left arete, while Strolling (** 23) blasts up the beautiful rock in the middle and looks amazing!
The Plaque Area
The Word: Too convenient for its own good.
The Crag Classic: Dramp 21
The Hidden Gem: Evenings, when all the bloody guided groups have finally left and you can enjoy a few quiet routes.
Sun/shade: Morning sun, arvo shade.
Wet weather options: Nup.
Style & Length of Climbs: 12m vertical.
Grades: 10-25
The Details: THE prime destination for topropers, scouts, commercial groups, and abseilers. Don't go near it during "office hours", it's an absolute circus. However the rock is simply gorgeous yellowy orange, though unfortunately very scuffed from all the traffic.
Access: 2mins walk.
Descent(s): Walk back off the top and around the side.
Described L to R.
* Camelot 13m 10 (OS)
A lovely little route on gorgeous rock. The small right facing corner in the middle of the front wall has great pro above 8m, and is surprisingly steep at the top.
© 1998-2004 Will
