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The Grotto

There's a slightly quicker way to The Grotto than shown in the guide - follow Illaroo Rd west from the bridge, turn left at the first roundabout onto McMahons Rd, and instead of looking for Jarman St, turn left again straight away, into Hansons Rd, which curves left, and meets Gunyuma St at a T intersection. Turn right into Gunyuma, and when it meets Yurunga St, the crag is dead opposite. This'll save you a couple of hundred metres - important if you decide to cycle! Walk straight towards the cliff you can see through trees, and you'll find a huge chasm, which is the quicker descent for these climbs, but has an annoying little downclimb to start. When you emerge at the bottom, Spinning Blades of Steel is about 30m on your left. The 19 on its R is a huge sandbag, and the 23 on its L looks good. Depleted Gonad Circumference is about 400m further E (or R, facing the cliff), past huge rooves and silly (hard!) projects.

*** Eat My Spinning Blades Of Steel MotherF---er 9m 20 (OS)
The rock can be cold on a winters morning, but it's still excellent. Heel hook your way out past FHs, then crux through the huuuuge undercling, and on up to huge bucket/ledge, with room for a whole leg hook. (Go hands free for the camera if you're brave!) Head even further L to 5th fixed bracket, then top out using good sidepulls to stand next to chain. Rap, with drag over edge. Stays dry in rain.

Bedtime Teddy 8m 19 (L)
19 M1 maybe!! Unless I was missing something, it's 22 or harder. Start as for EMSBSMF. Straight up.

Jail Bait 7m 15 (OS)
Tough. A few big moves, and a few small holds.

*** Depleted Gonad Circumference 20m 18 (OS)
A great route. I recommend backclipping your way across the ramp - the grade 22 direct starts are desperate. From there, it's steeper than it looks to start the arete, with some great moves making you think about what you're doing. Crux is about 2 thirds the way up, but don't think the rest is easy! Was definitely undergraded at 16.