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Mortein Wall

A nice wall with some good lower grade climbing, ie 16's and 18's. Instead of crossing the creek as for South Central, follow the track down beside it, and cliffs will start appearing on your R. Follow the track right underneath them, and you'll pass The Bakery, Bartondale, Rosies, and then there's a right angled turn in the cliff, and the wall with the big orange streak up the middle facing you is Mortein Wall. I unwittingly led my first 23 here - I meant to do Bitch Itch (20), but headed up the orange streak instead, and struggled up Jock Itch (23)!

Kim’s 10m 16 (OS)
Nice enough, with a thin move down low, then the crux through the middle is over the little bulge off the ledge.

** Bitch Itch 12m 20 (OS)
Very nice. A lot of good moves, and well bolted. The best route I've done on the wall.

* Jock Itch 12m 23 (L)
I thought this was a really good climb. The orange rock is great, the brackets are well positioned, and the moves require some thought, so I give it a star, even if the guidebook doesn't. Follow the orange streak, meandering to follow brackets and up to U anchor.

* Flood 11m 18 (OS)
Quite a desperate crux - the holds are not obvious. Once you know where they are it’s quite ok though.

* Wobblebuns 12m 18 (OS)
A top little wall. Crux is past the third bolt.

** Psycho Hose Beast 10m 16 (RP)
Good stuff, but slightly slimy while we were there. Stiff for 16. "Start 2m L of F up brushed wall. Up wall past breaks and 3 rings to double rings". I'd take a #0.75 and #1 Camalot along for this one. Its easier to start by traversing in from the R a bit.

Black Butt Borers 7m 20 (OS)
A bit steep, and quite smooth holds. Crux is past the 2nd RB - R hand glassy crimp, L hand up to good pocket, then through into bigger holds and U.

Rosies

Home to some of the hardest and steepest routes around. A popular place for a certain pissed off dude who can’t repeat El Maco, no matter how much effort (or swearing) he puts into it. Man, some people just need to chill out a bit, huh? Anyway, this route is a real sweety if you’re after something easier.

** Fist Full of Steel 12m 20 (OS)
Step onto wall from the R, and simply to 2nd RB. Nice move to 3rd RB, then head up the good crimps on the L, to step back R to jugs under roof. Out roof, jugs. Clip the chains from below - the break is really slopey. A good route, and fairly graded.

Bartondale

Not much here for us mere mortals. Has (at least) one seriously sandbagged route.

Bozo 10m 23 (L)
Not 19 and not worth any stars! Pull up to shield, then to horribly sloping pocket. Ignore crap pocket up L, instead organising a L heel hook on the shield (!), up to poor crimp (!), and crank L hand through (!) to jug behind crystal - not in the scoop. Put it this way - this was the hardest move I pulled all day, and I’d just redpointed a 24 and a 23. Whoever gave this 19 had his hand on it.