© 2002 Will
The Details: An excellent area, practically every route is well worth doing.
Access: 150m N of the Steep Side, or 500m W of the fitness camp, is a locked gate on the N side of the road. Walk along this to the parking bay 300m in. Walk up and R to the crag. There is a big chunk of cliff down the hill; most of the slabs are L of this. Common Origin is on the slabs behind the big chunk. You can walk to the top for toproping at the L end.
** Hampsters 15m 23 (RP)
My 3rd 23 redpoint. The leftmost climb here, 3 FH to chain. From poor feet and chalked jugs under bulge just L of bent FH, delicately reach over R to jug beside FH and clip. R hand on ironstone to the R of the FH, L hand into break, hoick L foot over bulge to just below jug, and mantle. ASAP, convert L hand into undercling. There's a small ironstone crimp in the middle of the blank face, or just go straight up to the next break to a nice stance, and clip. Set L foot on small ironstone hold, R foot smearing up seam, and establish a good R hand undercling/fingerlock. (crux) Lift L foot then R foot into break beside R undercling, and reach deep into high break for crappy L hand slopey crimp, which is sometimes sandy. Carefully get R hand up to good pockets, and clip 3rd FH. A beautiful sequence follows. L hand gaston in pocket, R hand over L to small 2 finger pocket (balancy feet), and then continue L hand up and L to small crimps, continue into the top jugs. A great varied slab.
** Into The Void 20m 19 (OS)
Starts below the big jug on the wall at 5m. Boulder up to mantle on jug, then clip BB. Nice climbing past 2nd BB, then on to 3rd. Hoist R foot up high, then balancy mantle to gain small holds above blank section, then to top. Belay off tree and #3 camalot back R. One of the best here.
* Ag Science 18m 16 (RP)
Looks dirty, but the holds are clean, so its not a problem. Run out. Thin move to start, then to 1st BB. Up L and mantle (so-so #3 nut out R in seam), then a couple of easy moves in grounder territory, to 2nd BB and then to top. Nice.
** Technical Short Talk 16m 18 (RP)
Marked. Up, clip bolt, then stretch L to holds near seam (crux). Pleasant up wall above past 3 BR, to single bolt plus cams belay.
* Common Origin 15m 16 (OS)
Nice moves. Up and R from 2m R of TST to big hole. Up past BR to break (#1 and #3 friends) and up to a delicate finish past old BR. BB, friend and tree for belay.
Common Origin/Common Sense Variant 15m 16 (YP)
Climbed when this was the only dry streak here. Thin moves to clip first bolt on Common Sense, then up to #3 friend in hole, then to #1 friend in break and final bolt on Common Origin.
Common Sense 12m 17 (OS)
Marked 'HTS'. 2 BB, take small-med cams. Some nice moves, with the crux being past the 2nd (dodgy) bolt, using small crimps and smears. DBB.
TPI 10m 15 (OS)
Maybe even easier. Possible wire in initial crack, up to cams in break, then R a bit past bolt to top. 2 BB for belay.
* ? 12m 17 (OS)
Opposite CO there is a big block just down the hill. On the W face is a slightly overhanging wall, with a BB and 3FH. Easily to clip BB on good ironstone incuts, then up R to highest ironstone hold. Nice L hand gaston gets R hand to pinch in pockets, then to jugs in break, clip FH. One thinnish move to next break, then jugs past 2FH to top, DBB.
* ? 18m 20 (L)
As for the following climb, up to 3rd fixed hanger on lip. Then heel hook L past RB, and mantle onto low deep ledge, crawl out, and clip RB on nose. Depump. Pull onto wall above, and crimp up past 2 FH to chains. Sustained.
** Narraroof 10m 18 (OS)
A Sydney Classic!!! The well chalked steep climb under the roof about 50m R of CO, marked '20'. An excellent example of an easy steep climb - I'd give it 18, and its very well bolted too. Follow line of chalked holds up past BR and 2 fixed hangers to roof, then use flake in roof and R heel hook to clip fixed hanger on lip, and move out to jug on lip. L heel hook on lip, and further moves past final fixed hanger to rap chains. Really good fun, definitely recommended. Click here to see a photo of this climb.
The climb on its R, out to the scary looking sling, is worth 24.
* Shivering Jemmy 10m 17 (OS)
About 10m R of the previous roof climbs. Boulder up thin crack/flake past cam placements (ignore PR), then heave and doddle to BR and sling on ledge. The exit R along the ledge is a touch worrying, especially if there's seepage.
For a complete description of all Sydney crags and bouldering sites, go to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's on-line Sydney Guide.
© 2002 Will