Earlwood, Sydney: Wuss in Boots 8m 14 (OS solo)
From 30m R of Slabmaster, bush bash up to the obvious boulder above the track. No pro, though it can be toproped using the DBB of the route 2m R. Undercut start, just L of the 2 carrots (which goes at 15). Up arete on jugs, then a bit slopey at the top. Took me four years to give it a name, but I finally gave up waiting for someone else to claim it! FA Will Monks (solo, in boots!), Dec 97.
The Far Northern Group, Mt Arapiles: Entertainer/Comic Relief Traverse 12m 16 (OS)
An insignificant traverse across the top of this awesome wall, which might have been done before, but hey - its one of the best bits of rock at Araps! FA was to set up a toprope on Comic Relief. Good micro cams with a nice exposed step down sequence half way across. FA Will Monks, Dave Prior, 2/10/98.
The Far Northern Group, Mt Arapiles: Solar City R variant 20m 19 (OS)
The wimps way out. Again, dubious whether 'new' or whether its even a 'route', but for what its worth: Up L to avoid the hard start, then veer R across SC to the flake, and up. Step L to rejoin SC for the roof (21). FA Will Monks, Dave Prior, 8/10/98.
Mt Boyce, Blue Mountains: * Say "Cheese" for High 'n Wild 36m 20 (YP)
I'm stealing Andrew's thunder here: he sussed it, inspected it, made numerous trips and bolted it by hand, but hey, I belayed and seconded on the FA and thats all that counts! ;-)
It turned out better than expected though - a very good route, with moves near the grade most of the way. Take duplicate friends to #3.5, and watch out for plummeting abseilers.
Start 6m L of Firebug. BB, then pull over into stance on lip (micro alien on L). Undercling or sidepull to obvious jug, and continue to break (shallow #2.5 friend). Step up to larger pocketed break (#1.5 friend) and step R (rest). Step up to place good #1 friend in pocket, then beautiful sidepull gains #3.5 friend break. R hand sidepull to (crux) walk feet up into mantle position, then reach to hidden 2 finger pocket, or small frictional crimps above. Delicate traverse left past #0 camalot break, then a good move gains jug below second BB. From good crimp on R, swing left foot onto jug, and delicately stand onto it without handholds. Extremely delicate slab move gains good break, then step R to flake. Follow flakes past medium hex and wires, to DFH belay. Rap 35m or step R and continue up Firebug p3. FA Andrew Duckworth, Will Monks 21/11/98.
Castle Cove, Sydney: A tiny little outcrop with extremely limited potential. Bolting is complete on one route (tentatively named Legged Snake), with only another 6-8 routes maximum worth doing, 3 of which will be graded well into the 20’s, at least. Drive to the end of Headland Rd Castle Cove, and park at the big green electricity box. 1 minute access. Walk 10m through little park to lookout. Jump fence, walk left and down slopey rock to halfway ledge, then left along cliff top until possible to descend and walk back under steep rock. The bolted route is in the overhung alcove, about 5m R of the concrete path (facing out), and is still a project - keep off!!
Ken’n’Barbie-Land, Nowra: * Slimy Ken’s Knob 9m 22 (RP)
My first ringbolts. Nice to the 3rd ring. Start under the obvious knob at the L end of the wall. From two slightly opposing slopers, slap to a rounded hold. Pull through to Ken’s knob, then clip 2nd RB from break. Reach high for sloper, then pull through more slopers to cave (clip 3rd RB from here). Sidepull out of cave to final jugs, DRB. FA Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth 23/5/99.
Ken’n’Barbie-Land, Nowra: Barbie’s Bitchin’ ‘bout the Salt 9m 20 (TR)
Start 2m R of SKK. Steeply through poor sidepull to break, step slightly left, then up on slopy crimps to cave. Awkward to holds above cave, then step L to DRB on SKK. Equipped in May '99, sent by A. Duckworth later in '99.
About 6m R of BBbtS is Teflon Barbie, 24, also equipped by Monks & Duckworth, but not sent until the heavy artillery (Giles & Martin) got brought along.
For the record, seeing as we were the first developers, we named this wall Ken'n'Barbie-Land in honour of those annoying yuppy lycra-clad sportclimbers with the sculpted physique and the girlfriend in the sports top, who we’ve all met just one time too many! Its about 200m left of Donutland and described as "The Collosseum" in Rod Young's new guide book. However, seeing as the guys who gave it that name didn't place a single bolt until after we'd already bolted all three routes, they hardly get naming rights!! In fact, we'd already sent our first route (SKK), at a time when the next guys had only placed a single RB off the deck on about 3 or 4 different routes (a pretty scummy way to "reserve" multiple routes if you ask me!!)
Bowens Creek, Blue Mountains: Number 51 18m 16 (OS)
The corner crack at the L end of Bum Wall. Plenty of pro but only one nice move, past the little roof at two thirds height (13 to the roof). Traverse 8m across (crux), 3m under the roof, to DRB. FA Will Monks, Greg Andrews 20/6/99.
Unspecified Crag, Blue Mountains: * Day of Departure 15m 16M1
The lovely corner crack on the lower cliffline. Great pro and lovely layback moves on gorgeous rock lead up the finger crack to the roof. Easy traverse R, then some tricky moves gain a stance and good passive placements in the crack above. Continue up the crack to the top (aided when wet). FA Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth (seconded free), Rob Hadley, 27/6/99.
Unspecified Crag, Blue Mountains: ** Blistering 30m 16 (OS)
Far and away the best new route I've done, and surely one of the best new cracks done in recent years between Narrowneck and Mt York. Proof? Click here to see some photos.
Will be 37m if direct start from grassband is ever added. Otherwise rap to stance at small tree and set a hanging belay from gear in crack higher up (#5 camalot useful). Easily to sentry box then jam, bridge, lock and layback up corner to rest. Fingercrack over little bulge to ledge then chimney to top. Belay off trees well back. FA Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, Peter Monks 18/7/99.
Coke Ovens Upper, Wolgan Valley, Blue Mountains * Blackadder 82m 23M1
Worth doing for the superb final pitch, which is very sustained with stunning moves and plenty of air (on the FFA of P4, the belayer was psyched out by the position!).
Start from narrow ledge, at a small corner with BB just L of where the face proper meets the ground. 1) 15m 17 Corner to BB then arete past 3BB. Step L to BB, pull over bulge on jugs and belay (trad gear) at ledge. 2) 25m 4 Wander L and up slab past a few wires to DRB on steep orange wall. 3) 18m 23M1 (21M1 if you aid from 3rd ring to 5th - stick handy) Break (#2 Fr), big move to juggy scoop, RB. Sidepull and undercling to jug, RB, crimpy move L to great sidepulls and up to #2.5Fr and sit down rest. Clip 3rd RB, step R and undercling to high pocket, swing L to clip 4th RB. Clip aid bolt with sling, aid to high hold in seam, one free move to 5th RB, then to sit down rest. Aid section has been worked, around 27. RB, FH to semi hanging belay off DRB and BB. 4) 24m 22 An awesome varied pitch up a great line of scoops 200m above the valley. No move harder than 20/21, so its possibly a super sustained 21. Thin past BB to RB. Tricky through crystalline sloper to crimp in pocket up L, then to FH. Big move off crimps to good hold on obvious knob, then another reach to next holds. Step R then up to crimps, clip, great move to next crimps then another great move to high pocket. Step back L to line, then continuous, slightly easier, excellent climbing leads to DRB lower off.
Gear: 5 brackets, 12 draws, #1.5, #2, #2.5 Fr and a few wires. Rap the route, two ropes required. FA (P3 21M1, P4 21M0) Andrew Duckworth, Will Monks (2nd) 28/12/99 FA (P3 23M1) Andrew Duckworth, Will Monks (2nd) 15/1/00. FFA P4 Andrew Duckworth and Kevin Seymor (2nd) 11/6/2000.
Coke Ovens Upper, Wolgan Valley, Blue Mountains ** Dr Freeze 82m 21/22
I have to admit I haven't done this one, though I did help with developing it!
Start just R of Blackadder in a R facing corner at line of 4FH. 1) 42m 21 4FH up slight corner then trend up & R 2FH to #2 Fr then back L 6 or 7FH to 2RB belay. 2) 18m 21/22 From belay up past 3FH then crux left up to FH to obvious L traverse across the pods. 1FH then #3.5 or 4 Fr 1FH to 2RB belay, can leave 2nd rope here. 3) 22m 20 #0.5Fr trend up and R past 2FH then back left and follow 6FH to belay in cave 2RB + 1 BB (bracket required). Rap 22m to top of P2, then rap 50m to the deck.
Gear Summary: 13 draws, #0.5, 2, 3.5 or 4 Fr, two ropes. FFA P1 and FA P2 (21M0) Andrew Duckworth and Adam Seedsman 23/4/2000, FFA P1,2,3 Andrew Duckworth (leading) and Paul (Popsicle) Darvodelsky 28/5/2000.
On the first complete ascent, the ascentionists went up in 2 degrees & 50-80km/h winds, got snowed on during the rap descent, and were lucky to get through Wolgan Gap as the snow started to cover the ground, they made it to Blackheath before the roads were shut due to deep snow cover!
Coke Ovens Upper, Wolgan Valley, Blue Mountains * The Best Forgotten Art 82m 22
Start off narrow ledge 20m R of Dr. Freeze (10m right of big blocky corner), at an undercut 12m face leading to a shallow left sloping corner. Pitch 2 is 18M1 if you aid the roof – and it would be a mega classic pitch if clean.
1) (* 37m 19) Stick clip FH. Undercut jug moves, nice undercling to scoop past FH, then sidepull to BB. Veer R on crimps (harder than 19 if you get the sequence wrong), then back up L to BB. Up (crucial #1.5Fr out left), and step L into start of shallow corner (small wires). Follow corner for 24m (around grade 14), step L to small ledge and DRB.
2) (45m 22) You've heard it before ... will be fantastic once clean. Move up off belay to top of corner, then step L to clip FH above void (you might like to place gear in the corner to protect the clip, then backclean to avoid drag). Swing around arete off pinch in incredibly airy position, to small crimps and undercut feet. Move left to base of crack, then up on jugs to stemming stance in corner below roof. Extend gear here, and be wary of water-softened rock in crack. Awkward moves gain good underclings in roof crack, hoick feet high to smear on blank wall, and move left out roof (add a grade or two if wet!) to foothold on arete and jug at lip. Magnificent positions from here upwards - 50m up the upper cliffline. Follow pleasant handcrack 10m up wall, then move through bulge on left side of vegetation (small brown snake seen here during cleaning but not on the FA). Tricky moves up 8m shallow corner(#3.5-#4 camalots), then swing around small roof to steep face and crack climbing in an incredibly exposed position (#4-#4.5 camalots). Continue up crack to tricky move into base of chimney. Clip BB on R arete of chimney, then again swing out R onto steep face for a few moves over bulge, then continue up easier wall past DRB to the top (DRB belay). To get off, rap down route (abseils of 10m, 40m and 37m) – you might like to give it a good clean as you go!
FA pitch 1: Will Monks, Damien Haines 8/4/00. FA pitch 2 and FCA: Andrew Duckworth, Will Monks, 4/5/01.
Gear: Pitch 1: 2 brackets, 12-14 quickdraws, normal rack of cams, wires & hexes (#1.5Fr essential, small wires essential, #11 hex handy). The BBs aren't filed down and so won't accept straight PFH hangers but (for example) do accept angled PFH hangers and RP hangers.
Pitch 2: Cams, with as many big cams as possible, including a minimum of two #4 or #4.5 camalots. You’ll feel sane with the following camalots (or equivalent): three #2s, two #3s, a #3.5, two #4s and a #4.5. Some big hexes won’t hurt either.
Coke Ovens Lower, Wolgan Valley, Blue Mountains * Vision Thing 55m 19
Equipped by Haines but sent by Duckworth! Both Haines and Monks attempted P2 on 8/4/00 before it got bolted. 1) (30m 8) Start as for Diamond Snake, then up easy slabs, veering left to orange patch and slender gumtree. Bridge tree to ledge. 2) (* 25m 19) Start below thin face crack, 8m L of DS p2 (which is the shallow R facing corner). Gain groove from the L (tree runner), up to crack. Up thin crack (fiddly gear) then R and up arete (BBs). (FRA P1 Will Monks, D Haines 8/4/00) FA P2 A. Duckworth, D Haines.
Watchtower Faces, Arapiles** Hot Flap 198m 14
This eliminate could well have been done before, but until someone tells me otherwise, thats reason enough for me to put it on this page!
Pitches 5 and 6 can be linked with a 60m, by following direct line (still 14) - step L at base of ramp (just before 5th belay), easy ground, then shallow corners to roof. Superb rising traverse on smooth slopers gains the roof crack (run-out and scintillating, 150m up!). Roof crack and up as for P6.
Coke Ovens Upper, Wolgan Valley, Blue Mountains (project) 79m 22M1
Start 5m R of TBFA. 1) (45m 18) A pleasant pitch with good climbing at the grade for 30m. However, take care to select solid holds. Clip BB, then pull up overhung scoop past FH to stance and BB. Step R and up to overlap, BB. Take particular care of a stubborn toaster-sized loose block here. Move up thin wall above overlap, then trend up and L up arete past many more BBs. Finish up easy slab and crack (wires, small cams) to DRB. 2) (* 34m 22M1) Tough climbing up an unlikely looking arete, in an incredible position. Step L from belay to clip FH beside arete, then a bizarre and ridiculously exposed move – snag jug on arete at full stretch, and then swing/jump onto arete, all while hanging 50m above the halfway ledge. Swing up arete to clip FH on L, then crux climbing past the next 2 or 3 FHs through slight bulge (still a project - keep off!). Thin wall climbing trends back R to arete hanging above P1, then continue up easier arete to top. FA (P1 18, P2 22M1) Andrew Duckworth, Will Monks, 5/5/01.
Bald Head, Grose Valley, Blue Mountains: ** Advanced Air Studios 30m 19
An outrageous, excellent and incredibly exposed outing with good rock and plenty of bolts, which dangles above 150m of nothing. Goodly climbing and magnificent exposure make for a pants-filling experience. Not quite as good climbing as Steve's 19 on the Main Wall, but it has ten times the exposure! An absolute must for every adrenalin junkie climber who has seen the photos of Black Rose (Garth Miller’s 25 at Hanging Rock), but who can’t climb 25. Rap 30m to DBB anchor at base of arete. Follow RBs up scoops, then move R to angled arete over the void. Funky steep moves lead up underside of arete with massive exposure, then thin up scoops and face. FA Andrew Duckworth, Will Monks, 3/3/01.
Bald Head, Grose Valley, Blue Mountains: ** Steve's Magnum Opus 22m 19
This one is here for 2 reasons. (1), I cracked it for the FFA (first failed ascent :-)))(ie. I was the first person to ever fall off it!) and (2), to rave about it. This route is an absolute must, I simply can't rave about it enough. Magnificent climbing in an awesome position, the only downers are the reinforced crux hold, and the last move. Worth using as a warm up for AAS! Rope up to access DRB anchor where the small central ridge meets the Main Wall clifftop (rope up from the clump of small gumtrees, and head directly towards Hanging Rock). Rap 22m to hanging belay off DRB in back of scoop. A beautiful belay possie, smack bang in the middle of one of the Blueys' finest walls, 100m by 50m of beautiful dead vertical stone, magnificently positioned 130m above one of the most beautiful valleys in Oz (if not the world) for good measure. To cap it off is the brilliant climbing past (8?) RBs up the scoop system. Carefully over soft final bulge on dinnerplates. Don't ask me what name Steve finally gave it, I dunno.
© 2001 Will