An historic climbing area, with several excellent problems. The main problem with this area is finding problems to warm up on, so a flash-pump also seems to be a part of the Queen's Park experience. Unfortunately this bouldering area was vandalised in 2001 by the addition of scores of bolts and several chipped holds by some clueless wanker. These eyesores have been removed as far as possible, and will be again if he carries out his threats to "retro-retro-bolt".
Anyway, get yourself to Queen's Park Rd (it's called Victoria St near Bronte Rd), and park on the very tip of the big corner where it curves downhill. The footpath goes from here and the bouldering starts within metres of the road. The line of clifflets continues further south for about 100m.
The North End: (near the road) a short, slightly over-vertical wall with heaps of small crimps, which gets heaps of traffic. The eliminate problems here are endless, along with several traverses. The problem shown here is a bizarre move.
The Centre: Starts in the background of the above shot - largely the domain of some magnificent fig trees growing over the rock, but there is a few problems in there as well.
The South End: Here there are several committing and very steep walls, including the classic Peisker/Child Overhang shown below, Wagland's Effort (gr25 toprope problem 20m L of PCO), a nice V2 dyno (to the obvious letterbox 8m L of PCO) (V4 with the topout), and an impossible looking V9 roof/nose just R of PCO. I'd recommend toproping these unless you have some seriously heavy duty crashmats.
*** The Peisker/Child Overhang V4 7m
Classic of the crag, one of Sydney's best problems.
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Getting established on the juggy flake.
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And then the crank up to the tenuous finger slot as the sun comes out.
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And here's a view from the base of the Peisker Child Overhang looking up at the lip, with the sun setting over the Blueys off in the distance. Gotta love suburban cranking eh?
© 2002 Will