> Will's Climbing Page > Crags > Sespe Gorge

Sespe Gorge

The Word: Worth a visit.
Sun/shade: Sun until late morning.
Season(s): All?
Wet weather options:None, but it don’t rain much in Southern California.
Style of Climbs: 1-3 pitch slabby splitter cracks.
Grades: 5.5-5.11.

The Details:

The rock: Quite a unique crag, this wall has been formed by a sediment of rock, which is only about 5m thick, tilting up to a 75-80 degree angle to form a slab which reaches almost 150m in height in spots. You can check out this cool geology from the road, about 200m SE of the crag. It's sandstone, with a lot of surface flakes ready to go. Eg I found a loose 7-8kg placemat-sized monster on the heaviest used rap route here, and had to carry it down one-handed on rap to avoid it decapitating someone or cutting my rope on it's way down.

Access: 2.5hr drive (from LA, without traffic), 1min walk.

The view of the crag from the road.

Descent(s): Rap, bring 2 ropes.

** ?? 45m 5.6/14 (OS)
A classic line, and a pretty damn good climb. Start about 10m R of the elevated platform attached to the cliff, 15m L of EC. Follow the obvious crack for 45m to good rap chains. There’s no real crux, just heaps of good climbing, good pro, and good rests. Although a number of rocks have been placed at the base to form a slight platform, this climb starts straight out of the creek so it is a significant issue to get started without getting wet! If everyone who does the route just adds one boulder....

John tries to keep everything dry.
Balancing act belayer

The line.

John still on belay! Tim up high, as seen from the belay on Ending Crack.
Tim busts a move

The slab. John gets his turn at last.
Balancing act belayer

*** Ending Crack 90m 5.7/15 (OS)
The obvious crag classic. This is a beautiful splitter crack up the central part of the wall. 1) (*** 45m 5.6/14) Smooth start, then easily over the overlap and continue on up the lovely handcrack, with heaps of faceholds for wimps. Step R 3m to chain anchor. 2) (** 45m 5.7/15) Step back L to the crack, which starts shrinking and offers less regular gear - so be sure to place gear when you can. At about 15m the crack fades and it becomes easier to step R then faceclimb up into the next crack, follow this straight up to join Tree Route at an easy short wide crack, to chains on the R. Duplicates of #1Frs and/or some TCUs are needed on this pitch for the many parallel slots, and there is little opportunity for other sized gear. 2 45m raps to the deck.

Looking down pitch 1 as Charles romps up it.
Charles jamming to glory

Gary nearing the first belay.

And Gary nears the top of this 90m classic.