Smith Rock

The Details: As you would expect of the "centre of US sport climbing", this place is a pretty damn good crag. However one thing I did notice on the routes I did, is that the first bolt is usually fairly high with some tough moves to get to it. In fact some people stick-clip every climb they do.

The rock: Volcanic tuff, interesting stuff formed from the ash of a volcano. The odd surface flake is loose, and well-used edges seem to be wearing down and becoming quite slippery. Across the river is a lava flow which later flowed into the area, and there is some routes on this where it forms columns further upstream.

Access: Drive to Terrebonne, 25mins N of Bend in central Oregon. The road to Smith Rock is well marked from here, it's about 10mins out of town. From the various lookouts you can see the crags across the river, from R to L they are the Dihedral Gullies (2 buttresses protruding from the hillside), Morning Glory Wall (the big impressive face with pockets down low on the L side), The Dihedrals (the smaller crag with nice square corners), Christian Brothers (just to the R of Asterisk Pass), and Phoenix Buttress (a tiny patch of good red rock at the base of the enormous choss buttress to the L of Asterisk Pass).

To get across the river, you can wade it (ankle-deep) near Phoenix Buttress, which is far quicker to get from the campground to Phoenix Buttress or Asterisk Pass (eg if going round the back to Monkey Face, Mesa Verde etc). But the river is a bit scungy, so for the other crags, use the bridge. It is at the upstream end of the area (to the far R when looking at the crags), and quite a hike from the campsite, so we just drove up there to save time. Once across the bridge, turn L along the riverfront to the river crags (5-10mins walk), or for Monkey Face, it's a big slog up and R over the high ridge (20mins).

Descent(s): Mostly rap-chains, which are getting heavily worn from dirt-encrusted ropes.

Here's a photo from N of Terrebonne, which in fact shows bugger-all of the climbing areas, but it gives you an idea of the countryside. However, you can also see Monkey Face, which is the freestanding pillar (look for it's independent shadow) on the rear ridge. As far as I know there's no routes on the closer crags.

And here's a shot from near the carpark on the S side of the river. At far left is the balancing boulder which gives Asterisk Pass it's name. (The campsite is above the river about 200m further L). To the right of Asterisk Pass is the large crag of Christian Brothers, then the smaller crag is the Dihedrals with nice sheer faces. To the R again is Morning Glory Wall, which is partially obscured, partially in shade, and has pockets down low on the L side. The closer black buttress is total choss. Taken around 8am, this shot shows that these crags don't get much morning shade! They're shaded in late afternoon though.

Described L to R, facing the cliff.

Phoenix Buttress

Christian Brothers

The Dihedrals

*** Bunny Face 25m 5.7 (14) (OS)
The first bolt is quite tricky to get to, 5.7 leaders may want to stick clip it. But the climbing is fantastic, great slabby moves all the way on amazing welded pebbles, pockets and little edges, and it doesn't let up until the very end!

Here's a photo of Nic cruising up it.

Here's a shot along the Dihedrals crag, showing the overhung nature of Chain Reaction off in the distance, the beautiful sharp aretes along the crag, and also showing the nice spitter of Karate Crack piercing the wall closest to camera.

And here's a closer view of the bumblies swarming over the crag in 100F (38C) heat. Just a tip folks - when it's sunny here, there's plenty of shade over behind Asterisk Pass at Mesa Verde Wall and Monkey Face!! Anyway, note Karate Crack (again) on the L wall.

Morning Glory Wall

A view from across the river of one of the highest cliffs at Smith Rock - note the climbers at bottom L to get some perspective. The pocketed section down low on the left side has several extremely popular one-pitch routes (Five Gallon Buckets, etc), while the major dihedral/crack starting behind the pine tree is Lion's Chair (5.11a R).

And here's a closer-in side-on view: the major dihedral/crack is Lion's Chair (5.11a R) again. The open book corner 15m L of LC is Zebra Seam (5.11d R). After the first pitch (which you can avoid by doing Gumby instead), it is called Zion and goes to the top of the cliff in 3 more pitches (5.10a, 5.8, 5.9) - looks like a great climb! The climber further R is on Overboard (5.11a).

This shot shows the nice setting of the crag above the river. It gets sun all day so is good in winter but too hot in summer except in the late evening shade. The carpark for the crags is on that ridge across the river, and the bridge across the river is behind the big black choss buttress.

And here's a zoomed in shot of the pocketed bit. From L to R the climbs are: Five Gallon Buckets (5.8), The Outsiders (5.9), the climber is on Light on the Path (5.9), then it's Gumby (5.10b, or 5.10c with direct finish), Zebra Direct (5.11a), and the corner crack is Zebra Seam (5.11d R).

** Five Gallon Buckets 25m 5.8 (16) (OS)
Another high first bolt. This one passes through some amazingly pocketed territory, mostly on huge holds but with the odd reach or smaller/slopy hold.

** Light on the Path 25m 5.9 (18) (OS)
The middle route on the pocketed wall. Similar bucket hauling, but with a thin sustained face sequence through half height, then more thin moves to finish.

** Gumby 25m 5.10b (21) (OS)
Really hard off the ground for 10m, it's quite bold to get to the first bolt, and well spaced bolts after that keep it interesting! Trend R after 3rd bolt to easier moves up into corner to chains.

Dihedral Gullies

Monkey Face

Any guesses why it's called Monkey Face?

This pillar is surprisingly high! The soaring R arete is The Backbone (5.12b, 5.13a, 5.12a, 5.12a). Notice the person rapping off at top left. Just Do It (5.14c), another one of the most famous sportclimbs in the US, goes up the uphill (left hand) face.

And finally, a view of Just Do It from uphill, showing some bumblies trying to tyrolean across to the summit. Notice Mt Hood (14,000ft) way off in the distance.

More Internet Sites on Smith Rock

© 2002-2003 Will