Will's Rock Climbing Page > Crags > AU > Vic > The Grampians > Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre > Northern Walls | Last updated: Mar '05 |
Guidebook(s): You need several - and even then you inevitably won't have all the info!! They are: Northern Grampians (Andrews, 1990?) pages 174-198; Northern Grampians Update (Andrews, 1994?) pages 25-34; Grampians Select (Mentz & Tempest 1998); pages 28-59; Grampians New Routes (VCC/Monteith 2003 - online) page 2-3; Stapylton Amphitheatre (Loughran 1997?). The Details: The Amphitheatre has a lot of climbing in a small area, of which these north west walls are the smallest cliffs, but with a handful of worthwile routes. You'd be better off walking past until you've done the much more impressive routes further around the amphitheatre! Access: Park at the Flat Rock carpark. 5-8min walk up to the rim of the amphitheatre via Flat Rock. After walking up Flat Rock, continue along the tourist trail beneath Epsilon Wall, and down into the amphitheatre until it flattens out in the middle of the amphitheatre. From here a climber's trail breaks off L uphill to the Northern Walls. 15mins total walk.
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Described L to R, facing the cliff.
** Trident 40m 14 (OS) Airy, with nice climbing, but by gawd the rock is ugly! My first time on this I didn't rate it at all, however a recent repeat has seen my assessment improve considerably. The jug hauling on the top half in particular is excellent. Unfortunately it's quality is often affected by seepage. Up the tricky little face just right of corner, it's not too bold if you take a #4Fr and a #1Fr, however it is very hard for the grade with lots of holds broken off. 16 wouldn't be unreasonable IMO! At the stance step L onto the overhung L wall, traverse up left along the break, to airy moves up the steep black groove. A belay is possible at a stance on the left, but not essential if you extend gear through this easier middle section. Move R to wide groove, and swing steeply up it on plenty of buckets but also nice moves. Large pro not required on this section if you keep your eyes open. Roped traverse 30m R to the rap tree.
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