Will's Rock Climbing Page > Crags > AU > Vic > The Grampians > Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre > Central Buttress

Last updated: Dec '04

Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre - Central Buttress

The Word: A small bunch of stunning multi-pitch.
The Crag Classic(s): Simpleton (18) & Missing (23)
The Hidden Gem: TBA
Best Season(s): Spring, Summer, Autumn. Winter is cold but probably doable - but with Hollow Mountain and Summer Day basking in the sun you wouldn't bother coming here to freeze your butt off in the shade.
Wet weather options: No. Plus seepage after rain is quite slow to dry.
Rock type: Good vertical grey Grampians sandstone.
Style & Length of Climbs: Vertical 3-4 pitch trad, with a few bolts.
Available Grades: 18-23
Descent(s): Rap down Simpleton

Guidebook(s): You need several - and even then you inevitably won't have all the info!! They are: Northern Grampians (Andrews, 1990?) pages 174-198; Northern Grampians Update (Andrews, 1994?) pages 25-34; Grampians Select (Mentz & Tempest 1998); pages 28-59; Grampians New Routes (VCC/Monteith 2003 - online) page 2-3; Stapylton Amphitheatre (Loughran 1997?).
The Details: A small handful of extremely impressive multi pitch routes, surrounded by larger areas of juggy wasteland.
Access: Park at the Flat Rock carpark. 5-8min walk up to the rim of the amphitheatre via Flat Rock. After walking up Flat Rock, continue along the tourist trail down into the amphitheatre until it flattens out in the middle of the amphitheatre. From here a climber's trail breaks off L uphill to Central Buttress. 15-20mins total walk.

Central Buttress viewed from the heart of the Amphitheatre. Marked routes are: Simpleton (18), Missing (23) and Technical Ecstacy (20). Note also Grey Wall and Petite Fleur Face at far right.

And here's a view of the Amphitheatre from the other direction, from below Lower Taipan Wall.
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre

More Internet Sites on Stapylton Climbing

Victorian Climbing Club (VCC) go here to check for new routes, and/or upcoming trips to this area.

Bureau of Meteorology Navigate to "Wimmera" - Horsham's weather is the closest.

Australian Maps Enter "Reservoir" as the road and "Laharum" as the suburb (and Victoria as the state).

Chockstone has several good pics of Taipan.

Onsight Photography The first 15 or so Grampians shots are from Stapylton.

Parks Victoria Grampians National Park information, downloadable maps, etc.

Parks Victoria Education Resource Kit A fascinating explanation of Grampians climate, geology, wildlife, vegetation, soils, history, park management, and visitor impacts.

TheCrag.com As always. Record your Stapylton ticks here, and see what everyone else is climbing.