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South Central

The scene of much tendon popping action, home to lots of hard climbs, including Sperm Bitches (31) and Dungeon Master (31). Extremely atmospheric. Its pretty surprising that such a huge roof exists in such a short cliff - its probably only about 80m end to end.
Cheesedale is also well worth a visit. The HUGE roof over Cheesedale left side is just amazing, as is some of the bouldering that exists under it.

*** Crime is Art 10m 23 (L)
Add a grade or two! Undoubtedly the hardest climb I've been on, but great moves. Overhangs by 4-5m. Easily to first bolt, then R hand pinch or small undercling, through L hand gaston crimp (!!) to big jug next to bolt. Clip 2nd and 3rd bolts here. Very hard up off jug and R hand sidepull to small holds above 3rd bolt, then a big static move or dyno to great jug next to 4th bolt. Head R-ish into breaks, then hard to chains through crimps. This would be an impressive redpoint!

** Silver Hands 9m 18 (OS)
A great little climb, with a fair grade! I can’t believe this got upgraded from an almost fair 17, and Burping Burgers got left as a way sandbagged 16. At R end of crag. “Start 2.5m R of S at obvious flake at half height to a small roof.” Nice moves up flake, reach out to horizontal break, nice big move up to good R hand hold, keep moving to OK hold out left (crux), and up through breaks. It’s actually all ring bolts now.

Burping Burgers 8m 16 (L)
16 my arse!! A full grade harder than Silver Hands, at least. Start 4m R of SH. Pro is all ring bolts. A touch insecure clipping first bolt, then a tricky move up through crappy R hand slot to big round L hand pocket. On up to jug, clip. Use R hand pinch and L hand finger pocket to move up to crimp (crux), then on to top.

Click here to see a photo of all these climbs.