Tahquitz & Suicide

The Details: A magnificent granite crag offering routes of 5-9 pitches, at all grades. This crag is unique (to my knowledge) because it’s a granite crag which offers a high density of routes in a small area. Being at 6,500-7,000 feet elevation, it’s high enough to take the edge off the stifling heat of the LA valley, but not high enough for the altitude to slow you down. This is definitely an awesome crag, but it is a trad crag requiring full competence on multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch rappels etc. Also, the walk-in is a bitch, so don’t bring any excess gear!

The rock: Superb granite, varying from cleanly fractured pearly white stone to your standard frictional grey stuff, to featured knobby areas. Few dykes. The right end of the crag (The Bulge and West Face) is more like your typical granite crag with easier climbs following flakes, and harder climbs venturing onto the steep faces in between. Fortunately, the granite is unglaciated so these faces offer sufficient friction and holds for 5.10-5.11 routes. The higher left end of the crag (North Face and North West Recess) is more fractured, with a dense series of vertical crack systems piercing the full height of the crag, and offering incredible moderate 8-9 pitch crack routes! An awesome sight from the car park!

Access: 2hr drive (from LA, without traffic), 40-50min walk up, 30-40min walk down. Drive to Idyllwild, due E of LA. From the middle of town, head NE along North Circle Dr and follow it for about 1km to where it meets South Circle Dr. Turn R onto SCD, follow it for about 100m, then turn L onto Fern Valley Drive. Follow this about 1km up the valley to the Humber Park turning circle (end of the road). The trail starts 50m before the turning circle, at the first really sharp curve. It drops down about 20m from the road, then trends L (S) and contours around the hillside, crossing a creek then heading to the right (WSW). About 100m after the creek, after the path curves L, the first climber’s path (well trodden) heads L uphill. You can also go another 80m along the path to another well-trodden climber’s path which heads uphill. I don’t think there’s much difference between the two, they are both really long and really steep! Slog uphill for about 40mins to reach Lunch Rock. The SoCal guide says the walk-in takes some people 20mins - superheros maybe, but not us mere mortals.

Descent(s): Many routes top-out, necessitating a 4th class scramble to the top then a friction downclimb descent off the back, then a fairly long walk down. There are also lots of rap points around the place, many of which require 2 ropes and multiple abseils.

Described L to R, facing the cliff.

West Face

Here's a shot of me jamming up the beautiful initial 12m hand crack - it is SO clean!! This also shows the whole first pitch.

And here's me at the beautiful steep move where you finally leave the main face and pull up left to the chains.

*** Fingertrip 122m 5.7 (OS)
A classic! The grades of pitches 1 and 3 is also a classic example of the superiority of the Australian (Ewbank) grading system over the YDS scale (which IMHO has insufficient increments in the 5.6-5.9 (13-19) range). The route starts about 50m R of Lunch Rock, where two corners almost meet at the ground. After pitch 4 we downclimbed 8m (5.5/12) to the obvious tree, which is equipped with rap rings on slings (bring a sling of your own, or better yet, put in a proper anchor which won’t trash the tree!). From here rap 40m to DRB anchors then rap another 30m to the ground. The obvious DRB on the face necessitate a hanging belay which only allows for 2 people, so if you have 3 or more, swing L to the chains above Human Fright where there is a ledge. 1) (** 45m 5.7/15) Start below the L corner and step up and R into the R corner (#3.5Fr). Follow corner up to PR, and thin smear moves over bulge into short thin corner (wires & PR). Where this corner ends, great face moves lead up over bulge to next crack. Follow this easily up over blocks to base of beautiful smooth layback corner. Move up corner, initially using splitter crack on L wall (#1.5Fr), then smear and layback off thin finger pockets (wires, microcam). Like all great laybacks, the last move is the hardest!! Then 5m easily up to belay off tree and #3.5Fr. 2) (* 25m 5.6/13) A nice pitch but with numerous hollow flakes. Step over tree then traverse R around the block and back up L to above the belay. Follow thin cracks and hollow flakes for 8m to where some faceholds appear for a traverse L. A tricky move up at the end of the traverse to a small flake (wire), then step L into the main flake/corner. Up corner for 5m to semi-hanging belay at a slopey foot ledge (mediocre stance, great #2.5-#3.5Frs). The proper belay is actually 8m higher (more positive footledge, wires to med. cams). 3) (*** 40m 5.7/16) A beaut pitch, noticeably harder than the equally-graded first pitch! Move up corner to first overlap, step L to orange flakes, which are used to surmount overlap. Continue almost directly up through next overlap to some good footholds. Gather your courage (and plug some bomber pro!), then smear and undercling up and L under the flake for 8m to the apex. The crux is at the start of the traverse, where the smears are at their worst and the underclings lose their secure square edge for a few moves - classic granite!! Pull through the overhang/bulge at the first crack/flake (which doesn’t take great gear). Funky and airy steep moves lead over this and over into the next flake. Continue past first tree to belay off 2 trees. 4) (12m 5.2/6) Wander up L from trees to a great belay ledge, 8m above the rap-tree.

Here's a shot of me at the first belay, showing the beautiful pearly granite behind.

And here's 2 views from the second belay of me on the 3rd pitch, just afer the crux traverse.

Here's a shot of us at the rap-tree below the 4th belay. Bring a sling to back it up. In fact, it would be much better if someone just put in some rap-chains to save this poor tree. It's not even big enough that you're totally happy to rap off it!! (Though tonnes of people do, including me!). Notice Idyllwild, the little town in the forested valley below (elevation 6000ft). Also, the lake visible off in the distance is close to Winchester. As the day progressed we saw the haze and smog from LA enter that valley from the North and gradually spread south and east towards us. Pretty amazing!

Suicide

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© 2002 Will