Will's Rock Climbing Page > Crags > Phra Nang Peninsula > Thaiwand Wall Last updated: Mar '04

Thaiwand Wall

The Word: Awesome! Perhaps THE main attraction.
The Crag Classic: Lord of the Thais (*** 118m 6a+, 6c+, 7a+, 7b, 6a)
Sun/shade: North facing, so its sunny from Apr-Sep, shady from Oct-Mar.
Wet weather options: Several of the first pitches at least would stay dry, however the muddy walk up would get pretty unpleasant.
Grades: 4-7c (13-27?)

The Details: Probably the most stunning piece of rock on the peninsula.

Access: 10-15min walk. Head to the southern end of Raylae West beach and plunge up into the bush around the high water mark, a muddy trail trends up and R for a solid 10mins to the crag.

Thaiwand Wall viewed from Raylae West beach - Wee's Present Wall on the left.
Thaiwand Wall

A view from Fire Wall - Thaiwand Wall at far right down the far end of Raylae West beach. The full height of Ton Sai is visible on the left, with Humanality (*** 100m 6b) roughly following the left edge of the shot. Dum's Kitchen is at the end of the closer beach (Ton Sai beach).
Thaiwand Wall

** Equatorial p1 30m 6c/22 (OS)
A fantastic pitch, though with a step-off rest halfway up. The technical crux is probably the start, with some hard pulls through a polished bulge, then doddle up to the halfway rest. Above awaits a long overhung arete sequence, great stuff and quite pumpy. My single 60m rope was plenty for the rap so I don't agree with the 35m length given in the guide.

Twenty Kilos of Steel 25m 4 (13) (OS)
Not really that great, but probably ok if you're going to combine it with the speleological excursion through the mountain to Escher Wall. Up the recess to the cave, past several bolts. The cool refreshing breeze coming out of the cave at the belay is priceless! Rap off.

Circus Oz p1 30m 6a+/20 (OS)
Start down R just L of the wooden ladder, up the short corner then a long pitch up the rounded arete above, lean L for more holds or R for more exposure. Rap 30m.

Climber toproping Circus Oz. The ladder leads to several other routes.
Circus Oz
Same climber one move higher, this time showing the whole first pitch.
Circus Oz

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