Will's Rock Climbing Page > Crags > Mt Buffalo > The Castle
Last updated: Feb '07

The Castle

The Word: One of the better single pitch Buffalo crags.
Sun/shade: Morning sun.
Wet weather options: No.
Style & Length of Climbs: 15-20m. Some routes have bolts but bring a rack.
Grades: 14-24

The Details:

Access: Park at what is obviously the carpark for the Cathedral. Walk away from the Cathedral, up the signposted path, for about 10mins until you reach the ridgeline. A decapitated sign indicates "Quiet Place" to the left, go right here along the main trail, then 50m further the trail to the Sentinel breaks off R. Go R here, trending L (SE) at the Sentinel (taking a moment to suss the great line) for another 40m to where another sign points to the Castle (the old guidebook map was quite misleading here). Follow this trail (quite well trodden) through denser bush, down into a nice glade and veering L around to the Castle.

The Sentinel is on the left, and that's Le Soeuf slab on the right. The walking track comes up to the saddle between them (coming towards camera), then heads past The Sentinel and onwards to The Castle. That's the non-climbing side of The Hump in the background.
Nice alpine glade

From the same vantage point as the above photo, here's a view of The Castle on the right, and that's The Corral on the left.
Nice alpine glade

Described R to L (because that's the direction you approach from).

A closer view of just the climbing area of The Castle, with marked routes being (from right to left) Tears Begin to Fall (* 13), Jocey and the Pussy Cats (* 23), Rising Fast / Bangla's Sport Route (* 14), and JCB (11).
The crag

The right (and best) section of The Castle, with marked routes being (from right to left) Jocey and the Pussy Cats (* 23), Silver Girl (* 21), Corner and Crack (16), The Crack Corner (13), Butterflies are Doodle (* 20), Rising Fast / Bangla's Sport Route (* 14), The Gentle Art of Lyrebird Mugging (* 17), and The Hole in the Elephant's Bottom (14).
Nice single pitching

For this route, I recommend you rack up near The Crack Corner, because the boulder hopping around to the base is a little tricky.

* Rising Fast (Bangla’s Sport Route) 20m 14 (OS, 1/1/1)
Nothing better than a good route to usher in the new year, the new decade, the new century, and the whole bloody millennium too! The start seems like a lot of effort after all the bloody rockhopping! In the end, it’s not as bad as it seems, so just clip the bolt and get on with it, a rest awaits soon after. A tricky and rather bold move then gains the obvious plate, so sling it and then laugh at how pathetic it is as a gear placement. Easily past the plate (though not so easy to avoid dislodging your sling), to a slightly insecure stance to clip the other bolt. From here the climbing is lovely slabbing, with enough holds to keep you happy. Belay off a big sling and a BB. Now, getting off is equal crux! Don’t jump across the big gap, rather head L (SE), step easily onto the next boulder, then turn R and make a very committing large step (or small jump for shorties) across the void back onto the thin rib. Head L and sidle down next to the tree, then out L and down and around back under the scary step across. Carry on down to the ramp just beside the start of the route.

The left (not so good) side of The Castle, with marked routes being (from right to left) the top of The Hole in the Elephant's Bottom (14), the top of Variations (20), the base of JCB (11), and the top of In My Gay Pantaloons (18).
Still ok

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