CLIMBING ROUTE PROFILES



my climbing bud BIG STEVE pointing up toward the Lyell Glacier
Lyell is the peak in the uper left corner and Maclure is the one on the right

MT. LYELL { 13,114 }

MT. LYELL IS THE HIGHEST PEAK IN YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK AND THE LYELL GLACIER IS SECOND LARGEST IN THE SIERRA NEXT TO THE PALISADE GLACIER. IT IS A GRAND PEAK TO CLIMB BECOUSE OF IT'S REMOTENESS AND IT'S OUTSTANDING VIEWS.

REGULAR ROUTE CLASS 2-3
LEAVE THE JOHN MUIR TRAIL WHERE IT CROSSES THE LYELL FORK OF THE TUOLUMNE RIVER JUST BELOW DONOHUE PASS.ASCEND SOUTHWEST UP LEDGES TO THE TARN JUST BELOW THE GLACIER. FROM HERE CLIMB UP TO THE SMALL NOTCH THAT LEADS TO THE MAIN GLACIER.{see above photo} CROSS THE GLACIER HEADING FOR THE NOTCH BETWEEN MT.LYELL AND MT.MACLURE. CLIMB UP THE LEDGES LEADING UP TOWARD THE SUMMIT TO A CHUTE THAT LEADS UP TO THE SUMMIT RIDGE. THERE ARE MANY VERATIONS DUE TO SNOW CONDITIONS OF THE GIVEN YEAR.

EAST ARETE. CLASS 3.
FROM UPPER MARIE LAKE CLIMB ONTO THE EAST RIDGE AND FOLLOW IT TO THE SUMMIT. YOU CAN ALSO CLIMB THE LAST PART OF THE EAST RIDGE BY FOLLOWING THE REGULAR ROUTE, INSTEAD OF CROSSING THE GLECIER, GO LEFT AND FOLLOW THE EAST SIDE OF THE GLACIER, CLIMBING TO THE STEEP COL.ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE PEAK AND THEN ON UP THE ROCKY EAST RIDGE.

SOUTH FACE,CLASS 4.
FROM THE LAKES TO THE SOUTH CLIMB THE TALUS CHUTE THAT LEADS TO THE SUMMIT{ THE TOP OF THIS CHUTE CAN BE VERY LOOSE}.

SOUTHWEST RIDGE,CLASS 4.
FROM THE HEAD OF HUTCHINGS CREEK CLIMB TO THE COL.JUST SOUTHWEST OF LYELL FOLLOW THE RIDGE ON TO THE SUMMIT.


MT,LYELL FEOM THE AIR IN A 1995 U.S.G.S. PHOTO


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