| AfriCat through the French Canals | ||
| These are some corrections and general comments to accompany the Navicarte books we used for our trip. We entered the Seine at Le Havre, went via the Canaux du Centre and exited at Sete. The journey took us a little over 6 weeks. For those who are interested I have produced separate documents, containing details of the marinas and anchorages we used along the way, budget information and canals Navicarte updates. | ||
| Essential Equipment | ||
| Tyres - must be tied on with 2 separate ropes, cover them and you will not be hassled. Have some with holes in, for lowering into the water (holes allow them to sink) when alongside sloping sides. | ||
| Fender board - at least one | ||
| Poles - we used a pair of 2"x 2" poles about 2.5m long. These were used as fender boards as well as keeping us off sloping sides while moored overnight. Think about how to attach to your boat beforehand, make sure you have any necessary padding. | ||
| Mooring spikes - order from a canal boat chandler or make your own | ||
| Navicarte 1 | ||
| PK 355 | Honfleur | You can moor alongside the wall in Avant Port or go into basin, you are charged the same. Shower tokens are 10FF, clean and warm. Laundromat and Champion supermarket about 500m up the main street from the back of marina. Mast can be lowered for around 400FF, go through 2 bridges to second basin. Honfleur to Rouen must be done in one run, there are one or two possible stopping points but none seem comfortable or safe. |
| PK 242 | Rouen | Halte Plaisance de Rouen is good value at 60FF all inclusive. There are not many free spaces, lots of liveaboards. The lights in the shower cubicle are triggered by locking the door, there are no light switches. There is a small Co-op, butchery, bakery and laundromat 50m from the front gate. The VNF office is on the bridge over the river , as you come up the steps from the halte towards town. There is a big supermarket on south bank. There are various banks (including Barclays) in the town (north side) as well as internet cafes and good markets. Leave Rouen for the first lock as PK 202 about 1 hour BEFORE LW Rouen, in order to travel with the least current against you (it never turns, only slackens). |
| Pg 80 | Pt g'Oissel & de l'autoroute photo's are switched around | |
| PK 202 | Ecluses d'Amfreville | Huge lock; straight, solid sides; bollards, ladders and recessed bollards; fender boards useful near ladders; minimal turbulence |
| PK 199 | bras de Cornelles route is scenic. However, there is a new bridge in the small offshoot to the Le Moulin restaurant mooring. There are many suitable private moorings - ask before using any of these. Many of the sites marked as possible moorings on the chart will prove to be very high to get ashore, and will require fender boards. | |
| PK 176 | Club Paris-Normandie | VERY tight, full, a little neglected. |
| PK 174 | Short stop quay for shopping. Floating pontoon. Yacht harbour has alongside berthing on floating pontoons for visitors. | |
| PK 161 | Ecluse de ND de la Garenne | Bollards, ladders & recessed bollards; straight walls; automatic |
| PK 157 | Port St Gabriel | Some rickety alongside pontoons - no facilities - looks abandoned. Inner island route is very scenic. |
| PK 150 | Vernonnet YC | 5FF/metre/night. Shower, water, electric, alongside pontoon. Diesel from garage ~500m. Supermarket, bakery across road. Laundromat, all shops across river in Vernon. |
| PK 145 | Former lock | Nice mooring place, still solid, some liveaboards. |
| Near most of the locks there are bankside moorings (bollards) for waiting - you could spend the night if you stop late and leave early. Long ropes and fender board needed. | ||
| PK 110 | Limay | Free halte. Single boat length pontoon, solid. Water & rubbish facilities. Also numerous bankside moorings. |
| PK 99 | bras de Me'zy route | numerous bankside moorings, very scenic |
| PK 93 | Meulan | Free Halte, single boat length pontoon |
| PK 91 | bras de Vaux route | very narrow but lovely |
| PK 84 | bridge under construction | |
| PK 81 | Port Saint-Louis | heard numerous bad reports, looks derelict. |
| PK 69 | Ambience Yachting | VERY tight, full. |
| PK 63 | La Frette | Free halte, floating pontoon, bakery & small café behind church; market, butcher up in the main town. 3 restaurants along waterside. Sewage pumping station, wash hands after touching ropes! |
| PK 48 | Bougival | Free halte; single boat length floating pontoon; noisy as right under bridge; diesel from garage in Croissy (about 1km) |
| PK 45 | Chatou | Free halte, under bridge so noisy. |
| From here into Paris there are very few places to stop. All marked stopping places have been taken up by liveaboards. Moor alongside a barge if needed. | ||
| PK 29 | Port Sisley | Full of liveaboards! Looks a bit rickety. |
| PK 24 | Port Van Gogh | Full of liveaboards! |
| Most of the advertised fuel pontoons are not really suitable for yachts; very high sides and huge hoses. | ||
| PK 17 | Ecluses de Surenes | recessed bollards, ladders, straight sides |
| PK 15 | Marina de la passerelle de l'Avre | big, rusty-coloured floating "building"; does not appear to have any free spaces |
| PK 13 - 12 | Jeanneau sales quay | a possible mooring overnight |
| From PK 12 towards Paris : note the shanty towns under the bridges and the homes inside the abandoned storage spaces along the river walls | ||
| PK 0/PK 168 | Paris Arsenal | 50% extra for multihulls. Recessed floating bollards on port side of lock (entering) only. |
| Navicarte 2 | ||
| The best time to do the last section into Paris is early morning, aiming to arrive at PK 0 around 9am. This means you will miss all the mayhem caused by the pleasure boats. Any overnight stop at PK15 the previous night and an early start should let you make this. Alternatively, use St Denis canal. | ||
| PK 155 | ANVT | seems okay, alongside floating pontoon, lots of cleats |
| PK 150 | Albon 9 | no recessed bollards |
| PK 148 | Port Premier | Full of liveaboards; some bankside moorings just before port |
| PK 146 | Port aux Cerises | Full of yachts |
| Many of the 'club nautique' have pontoons but they appear to be for dingies | ||
| PK 134 | Port Nicholas | no sign of anything! |
| PK 131 | Port Asaintry | small motorboats only |
| PK 130 | Coudray 7 | need fenderboards, straight sides but corrugated so fenders are useless. |
| PK 123 | old lock | no space, full of liveaboards! |
| PK 119 | Port Roi | supposedly good but narrow dog-leg entrance; entrance not sign-posted, low steel girder is entrance bridge. On opposite bank, landing stage outside St Assissi Centre is a good stop - floating pontoon with good cleats |
| PK 112 | Port de Plaisance | VERY tight, full |
| PK 93 | Samois-sur-Seine | new, solid wall; big cleats; very picturesque |
| PK 91 | restaurant | "Auberge de Rosiers" quay is in a bad state of disrepair |
| PK 90 | Port Stephane Mallorne | floating finger pontoons, some outside berths, good condition |
| Navicarte 6 - Canaux du Centre | ||
| When referring to port and starboard, I am relating to travel in the Paris to Sete direction. | ||
| Canal du Loing | ||
| All locks along this route are straight-sided (no sloping locks). NOTE that even the "automatic" locks have a lunch break from 12 - 1pm! | ||
| PK 49 | St Mammes | new, alongside pontoons at the Port de Plaisance. Bankside moorings available between peniches in stretch towards first lock. Sloping sides so need poles to keep yourself off |
| PK 19 | Souppes | stbd - new quay with electricity, water, bollards |
| PK 15 | Neronville | stbd - good halte |
| Canal du Briare | ||
| PK 56 - 55 | stbd - just before first bridge after lock there is a quay. About 100m back there is a big InterMarche and garage, not visible from the river. | |
| PK 35 - 34 | free halte to stbd just before lock; 5FF shower tokens from store, bakery | |
| PK 29 - 28 | stbd - halte just after bridge, before bridge. | |
| PK 10 | Moulin-Neuf 8 | a section of the lock to port is collapsing (below water line), be aware |
| Canal lateral a la Loire | ||
| The lockkeepers in this section only officially start at 9:30am. If you want to travel earlier, you must let them know the previous day. REMEMBER to mention ALL the locks, as well as ETA, through which you plan to pass before 9.30am, else only the first one will be expecting you. Also, ALWAYS remember to let lock keeper know when you stop for the day! From here on, the canal sides are sloping so sound in carefully when looking for a spot to moor. | ||
| PK 192 | location de VTT | about 5 pontoons, showers etc. Also, possible mooring alongside peniches / barges at bankside. Charges. |
| PK 184 | Nice halte; 26FF inclusive. 6FF shower tokens. | |
| PK 174 - 173 | Houards 36 | sells Sancerre wine between 32 - 42 FF; comparable to prices at Sancerre itself and a good PR exercise if you buy! |
| PK 168 - 167 | stbd - just before bridge, quay with bollards | |
| PK 165 on | lots of bankside moorings | |
| PK 159 - 158 | stbd - InterMarche, flat-sided quay, need spikes | |
| PK 159 - 158 | St Thibault | sloping sides |
| PK 157 | stbd - free halte, sloping sides, 10FF shower token, 10FF water | |
| PK 151 | stbd - straight metal sides and bollards | |
| PK 144 - 143 | stbd - halte, straight sides and bollards | |
| PK 138 - 137 | Charmetant | No space at halte on pontoons |
| PK 128 | halte | stbd - not very safe, shallow and hard sill |
| PK 126 - 125 | halte | stbd - just before bridge, lots of bollards, straight sides, all facilities ~45FF |
| PK 123 - 122 | stbd - very nice private, free halte. Gardens, bollards, showers, book swap. | |
| PK 120 | stbd - free halte (incl. Showers). Diesel ~ 100m (right at bridge) | |
| REMEMBER that most places close on a Monday, the occasional exceptions being the Tabac (pub) and the boulangerie (bakery). Bakers often close on Tues or Wed instead. | ||
| PK 103 - 102 | halte | stbd - 30FF |
| From now on, many of the locks are handled by a single lockkeeper (typically 2 - 3, sometimes 6). They will travel with you on bike or by car, you may have a bit of a wait if traffic is already moving through. | ||
| PK 81 - 80 | stbd - just after bridge, nice quay with bollards; restaurant and pub close by. | |
| PK 76 | port - nice quay, deep alongside. Rural and quiet, no shops. | |
| PK 69 | port - just before bridge; InterMarche, steel sides | |
| PK 52 | stbd - lots of space | |
| PK 41 - 40 | halte | stbd - just after bridge; floating pontoon |
| PK 38 - 37 | Beaulon 8 | fresh eggs for sale, 20FF / dozen |
| PK 20 - 19 | halte | stbd - just before bridge; quaint town |
| PK 5 | Port | stbd - first night free, chandlery |
| Canal du Centre | ||
| PK 103 - 101 | halte | prt - the whole way along. Lovely town, especially backstreets around church. |
| PK 82 - 81 | stbd & prt - just before lock, moorings both sides | |
| PK 79 - 76 | banksides collapsing, unsafe, rocks | |
| PK 64 | halte | stbd - excellent; floating pontoons, 9FF per night incl. Shower, 15FF water and electricity (225FF / month, 1650FF / year!); good market on Sat |
| PK 61 | halte | prt - just after bridge, water and electricity |
| PK 47 - 46 | stbd - just after lock; deep, straight tie-up quay | |
| PK 46 | museum | closes for lunch 12 - 3pm |
| PK 33 | Port | stbd - under construction. The bollards just after bridge have rocky, sloping sides. |
| PK 24 | halte | prt - nice; note advert for wine cave that delivers to your boat! |
| PK 17 - 16 | halte | stbd - just after lock 26 |
| PK 8 - 7 | halte | prt - last stopping place before lock 34b |
| PK 4 | lock 34b | 2 green laser boxes to stbd, around 120m from lock, trigger the lock mechanisms |
| PK 0 / 142 | Chalon Port | good facilities, HUGE Carreforre; 87FF inclusive |
| Navicarte10 - La Saone | ||
| NOTE : Always wear lifejackets when entering locks on the Soane / Rhone. It is compulsory and there is a 1000FF spot fine, which has been issued before. The same applies to paperwork, you must carry originals - although I recommend having copies for day-to-day use, only producing originals if requested. | ||
| PK 123 | Old lock | 30FF; quaint & spacious |
| PK112 | halte | downstream (d/s) stbd - solid quay before bridge, floating pontoon after bridge; free; Hotel de Saone pontoon is only single boat length |
| PK 98 - 97 | d/s prt - floating pontoon just after bridge | |
| PK 91 - 90 | d/s prt - very small boats only | |
| PK 85 - 84 | Pt Nord de Macon | tidal marker for the various bridges through Macon |
| PK 81 - 80 | d/s prt - bollards and floating pontoon | |
| PK 73 - 72 | d/s stbd - good floating pontoon, snack bar / restaurant | |
| PK 64 - 63 | d/s prt - quay just after bridge is unsuitable | |
| PK 61 | Former lock | no mooring allowed |
| PK 55 - 54 | d/s stbd - floating pontoon, good depth, water | |
| PK 53 | d/s prt - floating pontoon at café / restaurant | |
| PK 52 | d/s prt - good mooring | |
| PK 43 | Nautic 01 | small boats only |
| PK 42 - 41 | new bridge | |
| PK 31 - 30 | d/s prt - neither moorings look inviting | |
| PK 26 | former lock | mooring possible but full |
| PK 23 | d/s stbd - floating pontoon, single boat length | |
| PK 23 - 22 | Yachting 69 | d/s stbd - floating pontoons, looks good |
| PK 22 | d/s stbd - floating pontoon, 1.5m depth | |
| PK 21 - 20 | d/s prt - 2m depth, quay with rings | |
| PK 18 - 17 | halte | d/s prt - solid quay just before lock |
| PK 7 onwards | quays with rings / bollards all the way along. | |
| Lyons - don't miss the Fourviere cathedral - amazing mosaics, brass work, wood work! There is a big market along the river around PK4 on Sat am. | ||
| Navicarte16 - Le Rhone | ||
| PK 4 | Ecluse de Pierre Benite | Floating waiting pontoons |
| PK 29 | public quay; solid, high, bollards and rings | |
| PK 41 - 40 | les Roches port | prt hand marker missing, stbd marker on last of 6 pylons; good facilities, 2 prong French plugs |
| PK 47 - 48 | d/s prt - rocks and shoals to prt just after bridge | |
| PK 56 | d/s prt - steel-sided quay before and after bridge | |
| PK 104 | d/s prt - quay with tyres and bollards | |
| PK 112 | Port de l'Eperviere | tricky entrance, 1m depth max. |
| NOTE :If you see red flags along the walls inside the locks, this indicates the floating bollard in that position is missing | ||
| PK 143 - 144 | beware of 1m depth line of rocks running between old river and canal, when leaving lock. In other words, don't try to cross over too soon. | |
| PK 147 onwards | potential for rough chop in strong winds | |
| PK 164 | floating waiting pontoons; sign "no parking sauf plaisance" means no berthing EXCEPT pleasure boats | |
| PK 166 | quay is not suitable, marina is half built but has good depth | |
| PK 204 | Good pontoon. Co-operative wine cellar 5 min's walk downstream - wine by the litre for 6FF, bring your own bottle or buy one from them. | |
| PK 214 | ecluse | d/s - waiting pontoon just before lock is missing |
| PK 241.5 | Avignon | quay or marina same price. Marina pontoons were not in very good condition so we used quay instead, 3m depth |
| PK 261 | halte | very tight, silted up, 50FF |
| PK 265 | floating waiting pontoons | |
| PK 269 | new bridge | |