We drove to the Fish River Canyon lookout and then to where the 85km canyon-hiking trail commenced; ours would only be a day walk into the depths below. As usual I took up the rear, biding my time in photographing the picturesque landscape. After a walk of a couple of hours, we were cavorting in the refreshingly icy waters. Perched on a rock out in the middle, we basked in the exquisite warmth of the radiating sun. Claus and I indulged in one of many of our many impromptu photographic "workshops". The ascent proved far more demanding, the last section with the assistance of the chains provided. I bumped into Maurice, who had just commenced the week-long Fish River Canyon hike and whom I had co-incidentally met two weeks earlier on a walk to Elephants Eye near Tokai Forest in Cape Town, on the slopes of Table Mountain, where I had informed him of our impending trip. He had seen our Whichway truck and enquired about me. Sunset over the canyon as viewed from the main lookout was truly spectacular. It was here where we had a chicken "braai" dinner. To quote Marcelle, it was a number of "tired little puppies" that turned in for the night at Hobas.

During the winter season, from May to September, you can usually expect clear weather except along the coast where fog sometimes sets in. The average yearly temperature is 30 ºC dropping to -10 ºC in the higher regions in winter and in some places climbing to 48 ºC during the summer months of October to April. It is in summer when the country receives most of its average rainfall of below 250mm. Malaria is a major threat on the watercourses in the far north, these being the Cunene, Kavango, Linyanti and Zambezi, which along with the Orange and Fish Rivers in the south, are the only large rivers. There are no substantial natural lakes in Namibia.

Diamond mining along the restricted coastal areas, uranium and copper account for the chief exports: fishing, cattle farming, and the breeding of Karakul sheep also play an important role in the country's economy. Of the eleven or so distinctive tribes, the Ovambos of the north make up nearly half of the country's two million inhabitants. Another tribe, the Hereros, is unique in the way in which the women dress, with colourful turban headgear and Victorian style frocks made from almost eleven metres of material. The Hereros are a tall and proud race of pastoral people. It is also the only country in Africa to support a substantial number of Khoisan-speaking people, namely the Nama and Damara, who comprise 10% of the population.

There are only 4000km of tarred roads in Namibia out of a total of 42000km, although this is not as great a limitation as it may first seem. An excellent network of gravel roads serves the rest of the country.

The main towns are Windhoek, the capital, Keetmanshoop, Tsumeb, Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, situated along the coast and Luderitz, the first German settlement.

Werner woke us at 4h30 and we headed for Sossusvlei dunes in the dark. Leaving our truck besides a tree in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere, we walked across what was probably a dry river bed to the base of a huge dune several hundred metres high and proceeded to climb it. The warm clothing which protected us from the biting chill early morning air was soon discarded, as we ploughed our way through the soft red sand along the winding ridge towards the dune summit, sweating profusely. On the way up we were literally halted in our tracks as the penetrating rays of sunlight instantly popped out from behind a dune and lit a multitude of sand dunes as far as the eye could see. I removed my sandals to make climbing easier, but still felt the cold as my feet sank into the soft sand. A celebratory cheer rang out as the next individual reached the dune summit. The descent was attempted in a variety of ways, some even rolling down the smooth slope. Back at the truck, Werner had prepared breakfast, a fitting end to an exhilarating experience. The afternoon activity was somewhat more tempered and involved a quiet stroll down to the modest Sesriem Canyon, which seemed to resemble some ancient city ruin. The extreme beauty of the region is clearly evident in the multitude of shades of hue which the landscape projects.

Distant mountain colours vary from pale blue through to purple, while those somewhat closer appear light brown to reddish brown and even shades of orange, at dawn or dusk.

At Cape Cross a colony of hundreds of seals covered a stretch of beach, the bulls fiercely protecting their territory from any intruding seals, size or gender notwithstanding. The route still clinging to the coastline, we headed up and entered the Skeleton Coast Park gate, the carcasses an eerie reminder reflecting the desolation of the vast, flat countryside. We headed inland an encountered the hapless "Neville", an amateur tourist operator, stuck with a trailer "flat", no spares for it and a bunch of disgruntled French tourists. After an unsuccessful attempt to assist him, he was forced to headed back 50km, his trailer being abandoned in the process. After having our lunch, we met up with not 5km later and a "flat" on the Hiace!

Probably the world's most unusual tree, Welwitschia mirabilis, is found in the intermediate zone between the coastal and inner Namib. Consisting of two heavy, fibrous leaves, torn into two strips by the wind, the largest specimen is over 2000 years old and six metres from tip to tip. Survival depends upon a fine network of absorbing roots, anchored by a giant taproot.

We left for Etosha via Khorixas, stocking up en route at the supermarkets of Outjo at about midday. It took us two and a half hours to reach Okankeujo, where we partook of a late lunch of salad and sliced ham. Etosha consists of three rest camps, effectively sealed off from the rest of the game park. This is where the campsites, rondavels, ablution facilities, restaurant, swimming pools etc., are located. Each has a large water hole with an appropriate arrangement of seating suitable for game viewing. Okaukeujo and indeed, all the other rest camps, had changed substantially since my last visit 14 years ago. Some folk swam at the main pool. It is often at quiet periods such as this when washing becomes a matter of necessity rather than desire. Elephant had gathered at the water hole, located behind an electrified fence and stone wall, to indulge in a good, healthy mud bath. After a braai/stir fry supper and another round of the murder game, I returned to the water hole, which was now floodlit and populated with elephant and rhino.

A thick early morning mist hung over the river. As was customary on such tours, one would not pay immediately for each and every drink ordered; instead a bar tab was kept, which usually resulted in those who had been somewhat liberal the night before in terms of, inter alia, their intake of the fruit of the vine, being somewhat shocked the next day as to what they had to cough up in order to settle the bill! Barring the last 100km of the route to Katimo Mulilo, the entire road was tarred. Construction was in progress on the gravel section. A tyre ruptured en route and lunch was had while repairs were carried out. The town centre of Katimo was a sandy square surrounded by supermarkets and other related businesses. We rushed to and arrived at the campsite on the Zambezi River just as the sun began to set. The campsite was on a lawn under a thick expanse of trees. The last of the Namibian dollars were expended on a triple Amurula and ice. Owing to the existence of crocodile, this river was definitely not conducive to swimming!

The lengthy trip to Victoria Falls would take us through 6 border posts. Part of the route took us through the Chobe National Park, crossing at Ngoma and Kazungula. Game was spotted en route. It was indeed a tragedy that we were forced to rush through what is regarded as one of the finest game parks in southern Africa. A herd of elephant crossed the dusty road, the sight of the yellow Whichway truck disturbing them to the extent that the bull trumpeted his obvious displeasure. Jo's African drum was confiscated at the Botswana border, owing to the fact that the skin posed a threat to livestock in view of the existence of an epidemic. Indeed, the receipts for the purchase of our meat in South Africa kept in the on-board freezer, had to be produced.

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