Once bustling Eritrean port town withers under shadow of war
By DIANNA CAHN
The Associated Press; Wednesday, Feb 17 1999
ASSAB, Eritrea (AP) -- Kuflom Tekle sat at a roadside cafe, staring mutely across the
road at the silent cranes of this once-bustling Red Sea port that used to employ him.
In the Horn of Africa war between Eritrea and Ethiopia, Assab is one of the worst
economic casualties. The port is empty, schools are closed, and restaurants and
hotels have few guests.
It is a town on hold, waiting for the war to end.
Tekle, 38, is one of about 3,200 laborers who lost their jobs at the port last May,
when the border war started.
More than a dozen ships used to arrive in Assab daily, almost all of them ferrying
landlocked Ethiopia's import and export shipments.
But Ethiopia has since taken its business elsewhere, leaving the port -- the main
employer of the town's 45,000 people -- at a standstill.
Now only three or four ships arrive a day, most of them carrying military supplies,
according to a port employee. Thousands like Tekle can only hope for some
temporary work with the town.
"We heard there were jobs to build roads," Tekle said Tuesday, sitting at an empty
table without enough money to buy a cup of coffee. "So we have hope that we will
find jobs."
Shops and houses in Assab, once painted in bright hues of green and blue, are now
fading and dirty. Roadside shanties need repair, but there is no extra money to fix
them.
Assab's population has also dramatically changed. Before the war, about
two-thirds of the town's residents were Ethiopians who remained in Eritrea after it
won independence in 1993.
Now about a third of the Ethiopians have gone back to Ethiopia -- an exodus of 20
percent of Assab's population.
"Eighty percent of the port workers were Ethiopians," said Tadesse Sebhato, 42. "All
we had in the port was our flag.
"But our business is not beyond our sovereignty," he added. "I don't want anyone to
give me a dime and take away my freedom."
Serekeberhan Woldemichael, Assab's head of commerce, says the Ethiopians "left
by themselves."
"Nobody forced them to leave."
In Ethiopia, the International Committee for the Red Cross estimates that more than
50,000 Eritreans have been forced out of the country since the war began. Ethiopia
claims the deportees were spies; Eritrea says they were persecuted for being
Eritrean.
In Assab, soldiers mingle with civilians on the streets passing through the gray,
desert terrain. Mud-covered vehicles, camouflaged for the front lines 45 miles to the
southwest, race past leaving clouds of dust.
Dozens of large trucks rumble noisily down the main coastal road that runs past
the port, heading southwest to carry war supplies to the border instead of the
commercial cargo they once took to Ethiopia.
The latest fighting has brought the war right to the outskirts of the town. This week,
Ethiopian warplanes tried three times to destroy Assab's underground water
reservoir located less than 12 miles away.
Instead of fear, however, residents have responded with fury.
"Even now we are not afraid," said Daoud Adam, 45. "They are the ones who chose
this. They just want our land. But Eritrea is always stronger."