Forget the war with Eritrea, Ethiopia's wonderful
By Agnes Banda in London;
The Times of Zambia (Lusaka); May 27, 1999
Lusaka - Forget the horrifying war tales you've heard coming from Ethiopia, this Horn of Africa country. Forget the sound of gunfire, explosions, images of fighter-bombers and casualties you've imagined are part of everyday Ethiopian life.
Earlier in the year a new round of fighting broke out between Ethiopia and Eritrea and tens of thousands are believed to have been killed in trench warfare along the 1,000km border.
The year-long border war continued with Ethiopian war planes bombing grazing land in western Eritrea. Though both sides have nominally accepted a peace plan drawn by the Organisation of African Unity (OAU), they've interpreted it differently.
Eritrea wants a cease-fire followed by formal demarcation of the border but Ethiopia says Eritrea must withdraw troops first to show commitment to the peace plan. The two countries have disagreed 'peacefully' over their lengthy border dispute (the contested area is the Badme region, a sparsely populated patch of mountain land along the border) turned violent this year with each accusing the other of invading. Forget the worst, and imagine the other side of life in Ethiopia as seen by this author during a six-hour flight stop-over in Addis Ababa recently.
Connecting passengers to Rome and London arrived at Addis Ababa airport at 07:25 hours Zambian time.
It's a bigger and busier airport than our Lusaka International Airport - naturally. The difference here is that disembarking passengers do not walk on the tarmac but immediately gain entry to the airport buildings through 'tunnels'.
On hand to receive you are smiling Ethiopian officials who direct you to join hordes of other passengers hustling to confirm their onward journeys out of this North African city. Boarding passes are prepared before passengers jet into Addis Ababa. Officials wave you into the international departure lounge and tell you in halting English that further instructions will follow. A brown teethed but pleasant airport officer later calls out to Dubai, Bangkok, and Delhi-destined passengers to proceed downstairs for breakfast.
Soon it's the turn for London and Rome weary passengers who are waved onto waiting buses (with automatic operated doors) bearing Ethiopian Airlines colours. But before you leave the airport buildings your passport is theirs for the moment before youtake a 15-minute drive to Ghion House Hotel. Outside the airport, you are greeted by well kept surroundings, beautiful flowers and clean pavements.
Blissful experience. Taxi drivers whose vehicles bear the tag 'United Taxis Association' are not a menace here, instead they wait patiently in designated slots in the airport grounds. After a 30-minute wait in the bus we set off for the hotel.
Just three minutes away a herd of cattle are grazing in a field shared by teenage soccer exploits waiting to be tapped! Further down, 10 donkeys (donkey trains as they are known by locals) laden with brown sacks emerge from the opposite lane heading to the airport. (A new airport is taking shape).
On the same road from the airport the Malawi, Namibia and Senegal embassies flip past. One cannot help but notice the cars, there are more latest models and a lone fiat 124 seems out of place.
Street vendors and fruit sellers are part of Ethiopian life, billboards are aplenty and line up the capital's three-lane roads. Buildings here and there are under construction, a sign that the city is fast growing although it's a mixture of modern and ramshackle structures. Coming from a country where most cars are right hand driven, the left drivers looked strange. In the six hours this author did not see a right hand drive car.
This is the way it's done in Addis Ababa, home of numerous Cushitic and Semitic speaking ethnic groups.
After a 15-minute drive, the Ghion Hotel built on raised ground comes to view.
The grounds are simply breathtaking: green lawns, red, yellow, pink flowers. After an 'interesting' lunch before the 13:30 hours (Zambian time) flight to Europe, the three buses snake their way through the streets of Addis Ababa. I spotted one or two street kids and further on soccer enthusiasts watching a match played on a pitch right in the middle of town, turn to look at the convoy driving past slowly.
It was as if they knew the bus riders were on foreign soil. And then there it was. The Sheraton Addis Ababa, you need to see it to believe the magical sight unfolding before you.
The automatic gates open to let in the buses. It's another side of Addis Ababa. As African flags flew high on the hotel grounds (including a faded and tattered Zambian flag), the bus slowed down at the entrance where uniformed workers shouted "welcome, welcome" with a strong Arabic accent.
England's red telephone booths add to the plush and well kept hotel grounds. The drive through the Sheraton grounds come to an end unfortunately and we head back to reality.
Just a stone's throw away are tin shacks - a sprouting township right next to where the affluent rub shoulders with international visitors. This five-star hotel is ultramodern and boasts of high-tech telecommunications and conference facilities.
Soon it was time to head back for the airport. Scanning the horizon on arrival one cannot help noticing the bare land that was once forestland.
"Great areas of trees have gone. Ethiopia is no longer as green as it used to be," says Selamta, the Ethiopian Airlines in-flight magazine.
The facts concerning the state of Ethiopia's environment today are alarming. Trees used to cover 40 per cent of Ethiopia's landmass at the turn of the century.
Now it is reported to be a mere 2.35 per cent! Thirty-eight trees are cut down every minute. "Unless something is done - and quickly - our children might not be able to frolic through the forests, breathing in the fresh breeze we did with our parents," the magazine says.
In the near future eight out of 10 Ethiopians, those living in the countryside, might not be able to eat and sell crops and vegetables grown in their plots of land. Five hours later we were flying over Rome, the picturesque landscape was spell binding.
After an hour's stop over in Rome we sighed with relief that soon the long and tedious journey was coming to an end. And London by night was equally breathtaking, an amazing and refreshing experience. People this side of the equator respect ORDER! They queue in shops, bus stops, tube stations, cinemas, banks, post offices et cetera.
In case patience is not one of your virtues you'll be out of place here. On the London bus, no one talks to you.
There are no ng'wang'wazis screaming in your ears and making your life hell. A bus ride is actually enjoyable and peaceful.
The difference is that people mind their own business, they look through you, there are no sweaty conductors reaching for that K500 bus fare from the passenger on the back seat. You either have a day, weekly, monthly or yearly pre-paid travel card to use on the bus and train.
So you simply get on the bus and will only produce your ticket when an inspector gets on your bus. With over 10 million tickets checked every year, it's easy to get caught! If you misuse your pass, travel card or ticket on London Transport Buses you risk possible prosecution and a fine of upto to Pounds1, 000 .
An on-the-spot penalty of Pounds5 is payable if you fail to show on demand a valid ticket or permit for the whole of your journey on the bus. Commuters are now being advised to report all suspect or unattached packages to police and not to ignore or touch such parcels. On the tube (underground train) one in three people are reading a book, magazine, newspaper or document of some sort.
Here, you don't even wish to own a car because public transport is an ideal way of getting round the city of London. Motorists on the other hand have nightmarish experiences in getting parking space, which does not come free at all.
Soon it will be time to head back home and catch a glimpse of the highlands of Ethiopia and its rich history. Definitely an interesting place to explore.