by Bob Mollica

One of the most enjoyable trips any wine lover can take is through the vineyards of Northern California. Any time I travel to San Francisco, I always plan an excursion to wine country for tasting, searching out the restaurants and, of course, purchasing wines. A successful trip needs careful planning since there are so many wineries to visit. First, you need to determine if you’re embarking on a day of drinking or tasting. There is a difference and it will be noted by the wineries. If you are interested in exploring different wines and buying wines you don’t usually see at home, talk to the staff. Many will pull out an older vintage that has benefitted from aging. Often you can’t buy these wines in any retail store but wineries hold them back for re-release when the price has climbed.

A quick 45 minutes north over the Golden Gate Bridge, one of the first interesting wineries is Viansa, owned by Vicky and Sam Sebastiani. They make a range of wines using cabernet and Italian varietals. In addition to the tasting bar, there is an extensive cheese and retail shop. They have several wines clubs to consider joining. Each month they ship 3-5 bottles of their California wines and Italian wines some of which are distributed under their label. The winery has picnic tables and a nice view of vineyards stretching out below the hilltop.

After Viansa, you have to choose - Napa or Sonoma? There is so much to see, it’s overwhelming to do them both in one trip, unless of course you plan to stay for a week or more. I recommend a plan that includes time at your favorite winery, a few new ones to visit and time for some you’ve never heard of. I try to avoid route 29, the main drag through Napa to Calistoga, especially on a weekend. It’s crowded, many of the wineries offer mediocre wines and with the crowds you don’t have as much time to talk to the staff.

Two exceptions. First, a visit to Beringers is a must. It’s one of my favorite wineries - makers of a superb cabernet reserve, wonderful Howell Mountain Merlot that is in short supply and a Knight’s Valley cabernet that sells for $15 - 18 that beats many wines at twice the price. For a solid, balanced, smooth wine year after year, you can’t beat the KV. I like to age them about two years. The Founder’s Tasting room is upstairs in a wonderful building on the left as you enter the grounds.

The second exception is Mondavi. Yes, it’s large and commercial, but they have an excellent private tour. You have to schedule it before arriving. When we visited in 1996, the tour included a barrel tasting and a private tasting of 4-6 wines after the tour.

There are other good wineries along this route - Heitz for one. Opus One is also there with tasting by appointment and a hefty fee. Visitors to Sterling, further north on Route 29 in Calistoga, take a gondola from the parking area to the winery. The tasting room is ample and a number of wines are served. The tour is informative. Also stop at some of the wine retail stores in St. Helena and Oakville. They have great selections, many from small wineries whose offerings you won’t find at home. Ask the staff for suggestions and places to visit for tasting.

For the rest of the day, try the Silverado Trail. It’s a quieter road that parallels Route 29 to the east. On my last trip, I stopped at Pine Ridge, Chimney Rock and Clos du Val. At Clos du Val, look for older wines that have been re-released. Stags Leap and ZD Wines are also located on The Trail. The cross roads that run every mile or so also have wineries - Silver Oak among the notables.

After a day of tasting and buying, you may have purchased wine than you can carry comfortably on a plane. Again, planning helps. Most wineries will not ship to individuals but there are many companies and wine stores that do. At the end of day - earlier if it’s hot - take your wines for packaging and shipping. On a hot day, don’t leave the wines in a trunk or closed car. Make a couple of trips to the shipping source. Ask the wineries where to go for sending wines back home. They’ll have two or three options. And make sure you send them to your office or location where someone will be available to sign for them. You don’t want the wines sitting on your front step with the sun beating down on them.

To the west of Route 29 is Hess Vineyards on Redwood Road. This winery has a self-guided tour of their very own art museum. The wine tasting room and shop is very roomy with good wines and many buying opportunities.

One of my best wine tasting experiences came by chance. I had heard good reports about the Philip Togni Vineyard. It’s a small operation, operated by Philip and Brigitta and one full time worker. It sits on a steep hillside on Spring Mountain Road, which runs between St. Helena and Sonoma County. They don’t normally take visitors but I called and pleaded. We were rewarded with a gracious tour and barrel tasting of the 1992 cabernet. It tasted as full, complex and soft as wine aged for many years. You could actually enjoy it from the barrel. We purchased a case of selected wines and vintages and I have been a loyal buyer ever since. They are among the best cabernets made in California!

Sonoma County has its attractions as well. If you have two days, spend one in each area. The drive from Route 29 North taking Alexander Valley road is picturesque. You pass the Silver Oak Alexander Valley Vineyard. Later on the left, unmarked, is Jordan Vineyard. Though I haven’t had their recent vintages, the 86 and 87 cabernets were excellent. The winery does tours by appointment only and there are no tastings.

Clos du Bois in Healdsburg is another friendly winery with a range of cabernets, merlots and blends (Marlstone) to taste. (Notice I never mention whites. I always save my pallet and alcohol intake for reds - get right to the good stuff!). Other wineries I’ve visited in Sonoma are Kenwood, Simi and Sebastiani. Hmm, looks like I could spend some more time there!

And lunch in the town of Sonoma is a must. Around the town square, there is an excellent sandwich, bread and cheese shop, a place for homemade ice cream, and of course several retail wine stores.

I know there are hundreds more good wines that I have not mentioned and have not tasted. But I hope to make many more trips to wine country and will add a few new ones during each visit.

If you have a favorite to recommend, please let me know.

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