OldMage's '83 Celica GT-S coupe:
Current mods:
- double-width timing-chain conversion (from 20R)
- fully port-matched head, intake manifold & intake chamber
- Doug Thorley "Tri-Y" header (4 into 2 into 1)
- LC Engineering EFI Performer camshaft (219° intake & 221° exhaust @ .050" lift)
- TRD-style adjustable camshaft sprocket (multi-hole)
- LC Engineering Big Bore Throttle-Body
- Centerforce II clutch set (+60% holding strength)
- custom handmade cold-air intake
- Torque Master sparkplugs
- Jacob's Omni-Pak ignition and 8.5mm silicone wires
- custom 2.5" exhaust; header-back incl. hi-flow cat. and SuperTrapp muffler (9 discs)
- rear disc brakes and limited-slip diff. from an 85 GT-S
- shortened stock shift lever
- 15"x7" Centerline "Hammer" alloy wheels
- 225/50VR15 Toyo FZ4 performance radials
- Eibach Pro-kit lowering springs (~1" drop)
- Tokico low-pressure struts & shocks (not the adjustable Illuminas)
- Hella european-spec H4 headlights (illegal, but very nice!!)
- all badges and emblems removed and filled in
- taillights/signals/markers blacked-out
- Clarion AM/FM/Cass/CD-controller head-unit (no CD changer yet)
- Clarion line-level EQ
- Blaupunkt 3.5" dash speakers
- Pyle 5.25" separates in rear-seat area...See picture ===>>
- Kicker 10" Solo-baric subwoofer
- Sony & Profile California-series amps (650W peak total)
Planned/Possible mods:
- full-engine balance
- oversized valves (45.5mm In./37.5mm Ex.)
- forged pistons (~8.5:1 compression for turbo - see below)
- forged connecting rods
- lightweight flywheel - 9lb.
- larger injectors
- turbo system based on an 85-88 turbo truck(?)
- aftermarket programmable fuel-injection system
- larger front & rear sway bars
- front strut-tower brace
- Toysport KWIK short-shift kit
- Toysport camber plates or eccentric bushings for front suspension arms
- Kaminari body kit (or Mitcom)
- 4 post spoiler for trunk lid
Here are OldMage's instructions on creating your own K&N Filtercharger assembly
Buy/order a K&N #RU-2520 universal element, a large hose clamp (5" dia. or so)
and find one of the 4" dia. flat-topped, straight-sided ( |_| ) Thermos
lids that comes on the insulated soup containers. The element is a conical
shape, 4" dia on the closed end, 5 3/8" dia at the wide end plus a short
rubber "neck" 4" i.d. making the filter 5" long overall.
It's easier to work on this stuff with the works out of the car, so remove
the air box plate/AFM from the car (watch the metal clip around the AFM
connector!!). There are 3 bolts holding it in place; one above the right
headlight, one under the radiator overflow bottle, and the last is below
the AFM. Ditch all of the stock air cleaner except the flat part that
the airflow meter mounts to (even the dumb plastic snorkel and debris catch
under the airflow meter). Keep the parts if you have an inspection to pass (just in case).
The Thermos lid is the adapter, so you cut a square hole in the center of it
that fits over the square "funnel" in the middle of the air box plate, and
drill 4 holes around the edges for the AFM screws. Mount the adapter to
the air box plate using the 4 screws that mount the AFM. Strap the K&N to
the Thermos lid and drop the works back in the car. The AFM connector is
actually easier to deal with if you mount the AFM with the black plastic
cover up (if it wasn't originally). Besides, then you can adjust your
AFM anytime you want (it's guts are under the black cover). The connector
goes on a lot easier if you put the metal clip back on the connector (in
it's little groove), then just push it onto the AFM until it "clicks" home.
Hope this all makes sense. Write me if it doesn't. - OldMage
Questions about OldMage's coupe can go directly to him at oldmage@coho.net
Copyright 1998 Tom Kyle and OldMage