| I considered myself as one of the luckiest person , because i abled to met the toughest colourist in the hairdressing Industry Local , Regional , International and Global. I wanted to share some humble knowledge where i get my energy from, and Able to won several awards in HairColouring . Types of Haircolor Temporary - color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft. Semi-Temporary - color lasts up to 4-6 shampoos. Semi-Permanent - color is for masking white or light hair and lasts 2 to 6weeks. Permanent - color formulas change the natural hair color. They require maintenance to new hair growth after 4 to 6 weeks. (For the purposes of this guide we will be discussing Permanent colors and methods of processing only.) How it Works Before any permanent color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer layer, must be opened. The insoluble formula then reacts with the cortex, or middle layer, to deposit or remove the color. The color is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos. These will not permanently change the hair color until they are part of an oxidation chemical reaction. The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. lt is the catalyst or cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently alter the hair's color. The strength of the developer - is determined by the desired results and the manufacturer's directions. 10 Volume - Color deposit with only slight lightening. 20 Volume - Maximum color deposit as for gray or white hair with lightening 30 Volume - . Strong lightening action with less color deposit. Bleaching Boosters - can be added to increase lifting action. Consult manufacturer's instructions . Too much developer and the color may not have good highlights, cover poorly, not lift to the correct level and fade more quickly. This is the key to haircolor The "color wheel" If you know the color wheel color becomes easy... It may sound a bit odd but your hair is a mixture of 3 colors; red, yellow, and blue. These are the primary colors. Secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. If you look at the "wheel" a color opposite (directly across) will "negate" that color. This means if your hair is a orange color - green will make it a brown color. If you hair has a yellow tone, violet will cancel it out. One of the most important elements of haircoloring is determining the hairs' "underlying pigmet." When you chose a color in a swatch book, your hair may not come out that color because of the underlying pigment in your hair. Underlying color + Artifcial color = Final result I will explain more about that later. First things first... Tone: refers to whether a color is warm or cool. The warm colors(highlighting) are red, orange and yellow. The cool(ash) colors are blue, green, and violet. Level: indicates the degree of lightnessor dakness of a color. Every color can be made either lighter or darker, thus changing the level, by the addition of white or black. Hair colors, both natural and color-treated , are classified by level from 1 to 10. 1 indicates black, and 10 indicates the lightest blonde. Saturation: refers to the degree of concentration or amount of pigment in the color. Hair Pigment A pigment called melanin is responsible for hair color. There are 2 types of melanin found in the hair. Eumelanin, is the most common type, it gives the hair shades from brown to black. Phaeomelanin, gives the hair yellowish-blond tones and ginger and red colors. Total absence of pigment produces white (grey) hair. Levels of Hair Color 1=Black 2=Very Dark Brown 3=Dark Brown 4=Brown 5=Medium Brown 6=Light Brown 7=Dark Blonde 8=Light Blonde 9=Very Light Blonde 10=Light Platium Blonde THE CORTEX About 80% of the hair consists of elongated cells (corticle cells) of a fibroid structure (macro-fibrils, micro fibrils). The cortex determines the THICKNESS, ELASTICITY and STRENGTH of the hair. It is also responsible for housing all of the hairs' natural COLOR PIGMENTS. COLOR PIGMENTS found in the cortical layer are in the form of minute melanin granules. These granulized color pigments are stored in tiny sacks called ALVEOLUS (ALVEOLI). In healthy hair, light reflected from the cuticle surface produces a soft sheen This sheen is referred to as "the transparency of a hair color." At the same time, the pigments gleam through the cuticle. This is what makes up the unmistakable shades of color in the hair. The cortex can be damages by: 1. TOO STRONG DEVELOPER (OXIDIZERS) 2. BRUSHING AND DRYING 3. PERMS AND NON-SUITABLE SHAMPOOS This means that the haircolor does not last as long and that the hair becomes brittle, dry, dull and not easy to comb. FINE HAIR Fine hair can be damaged easily as compared to thicker or coarser hair. Penetration of chemicals and products occurs faster on fine hair due to the fact that fine hair has less cuticle layers, and sometimes the layers themselves are thinner. The Haircolorist needs to keep this in mind when working with fine textured hair. COARSE HAIR Coarse hair is larger in diameter. Coarse hair will have more cuticle layers, and sometimes the layers themselves can be thicker. This type of hair is sometimes more resistant to haircolor and decolorization products |
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| Quick Tricks To Find Your Proportions.... Study your proportions - whether you're short, tall, slim, or voluptuous - until you know everything about your figure. Just as essential in developing your style is finding the most flattering colors for you. Tips: Squint at yourself in the mirror. A tighter gaze will block out those distracting lumps and bumps and allow you a clearer focus on your overall body shape. Study your side and back views as well! In order to really gauge your body shape, you really must examine the evidence! A quick way to tell if you're short- or long-waisted without measuring is to gauge the distance from your neck to your waist and from waist to crotch. If the upper half is longer, you're long-waisted, and vice-versa. Determine the length of your neck and legs (they play an important part in overall proportion) with these easy steps: *If you can easily touch your chin to your chest, your neck is short; if you have to strain, it's long. *If the distance from your shoulders to your crotch is longer than from your crotch to ankles, you're short-legged. Top Heavy Figure Dos and Don'ts: DO spend as much time as is necessary finding the right bra or body suit. It can make a whole lot of difference. Your best buy is a no-seam bra that offers a natural-looking profile. DO go for collarless jackets and avoid patch breast pockets. The less detail on or near your bust, the less attention you'll attract to it. DON'T ever forget that a tight sweater is the worst booboo you can do. The next worst is wearing a light top over a dark bottom. DON'T wear wide belts. They'll make your bustline look even bigger. Small-Busted Figure Dos and Don'ts: DO experiment with layering. You can wear a vest over a shirt in cooler weather or a bratop under one in summer. DO dare to go braless in the evening. Small breasts under a sweater look sexier than you can imagine. DON'T forget that with your small bust, you look great in mannish jackets, and this is a plus if you are climbing the executive ladder. DON'T forget that with your figure you can get away with the most romantic ruffles, wide bertha collars, and peasant skirts. Bottom-Heavy Figure Dos and Don'ts: DO avoid different skirt lengths. Find the one that is most flattering to your figure and stay with it. DO keep pantyhose and shoes in tone with skirts and pants, to lengthen your figure. DON'T choose light colors for skirts and pants - you'll only draw attention to your lower torso. Remember, dark colors make heavy areas look smaller. DON'T stop experimenting with tops. Use them to draw attention to your well-proportioned bust and to flatter your face. High-Waisted Figure Dos and Don'ts: DO wear all one color from neckline to hemline. DO opt for a sheath dress whenever possible. Its straight shape elongates your waistline - and it's more flattering than any other style. DON'T tuck your blouse in as it will broadcast exactly where your waist is. Your best length is exactly three inches below - just where your stomach starts to rise. DON'T wear contrasting belts. Your smartest choice is a narrow one-inch-wide style that is simply designed and toned to match your pants or skirt. Low-Waisted Figure Dos and Don'ts: DO emphasize your waist with belts. Sashes in contrasting colors are especially flattering. DO watch the fit of jackets as they are often too short-waisted. A very fitted jacket will be cut too high. Save your money - it will never feel right on you. DON'T buy skirts or pants with a wide waistband. Too often, the waist will rise so high, it'll be uncomfortable. DON'T consider a princess-lined or fitted coat; it will only accentuate your low waist. With that long back, you'll look like a million dollars in a bathroom coat tied low. Straight-Up-And Down Figure Dos and Don'ts: DO choose skirts, pants and jackets that tie softly at the waist. That gentle gathering creates the illusion of a waistline. DO - especially if your neck is long - play with long scarves and necklaces. These will give your torso the illusion of shape. DON'T mix too many colors. A soft simple print is best for you. DON'T wear tight belts. Your best bet is the belt that lies easily and loosely on your hips. Short-Legged Figure Dos and Don'ts: DO match your stockings to your shoes and skirts or pants. That continuous line of color elongates the leg. DO keep your trouser legs slim and straight to help create the illusion of height. DON'T wear cuffed trousers. Even a small cuff will cut your height. DON'T wear skirts below the knee. They'll only chop you in half. Heavy-Thighed Figure Dos and Don'ts: DO choose loose-fitting pants and skirts, such as a flared A-line style. (Avoid anything bias-cut as it will cling.) Wear fitted tops with them to show off the smallness of your body. DO collect tunic-length tops or even large tees to give you the coverage you need. DON'T wear prints, horizontal stripes, or bright colors below the waist. These will only draw attention to thighs. DON'T forget a body shaper if you must wear a more fitted look. A long-leg controller trims hips and thighs for a smoother, sleeker line. |
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| WATCHOUT PASTEL WIL BE THE NEXT TREND FOR HAIRCOLORING |
| The Structure of Your Hair Hair Structure We will begin by defining the hair. Hair is composed primarily of proteins (88%). These proteins are of a hard fibrous type known as keratin. Keratin protein is comprised of what we call "polypeptide chains.?The word, polypeptide, comes from the Greek word "poly" meaning many and "peptos" meaning digested or broken down. In essence, if we break down protein, we have individual amino acids. Many (poly) amino acids joined together form a "polypeptide chain". Two amino acids are joined together by a "peptide bond", and the correct number of amino acids placed in their correct order will form a specific protein; i.e. keratin, insulin, collagen and so on. The "alpha helix" is the descriptive term given to the polypeptide chain that forms the keratin protein found in human hair. Its structure is a coiled coil. The amino acids link together to form the coil and there are approximately 3.6 amino acids per turn of the helix (coil). Each amino acid is connected together by a "peptide bond". The peptide bond is located between the carbon atom of one amino acid extending to bond with the nitrogen atom of the next amino acid. The A Helix Coil In the organization of a single hair, three "alpha helices" are twisted together to form a "protofibril". This is actually the first fibril structure of the hair. Nine protofibrils are then bundled in a circle around two or more to form an eleven-stranded cable known as the "microfibril". These microfibrils are embedded in an amphorous unorganized protein matrix of high sulfur content, and hundreds of such microfibrils are cemented into an irregular fibrous bundle called a "macrofibril". These macrofibrils are grouped together to form the cortex (or the main body) layers of the hair fiber. Packed dead cells surround these structures and are known as the cuticular layers of the hair. In the center of these structures lies the medullary canal, which is actually apart of the excretory system and houses any foreign debris, heavy metals, synthetics and medications that are thrown off by the body and eventually released through the canal. Bonding in Keratin Protein When the hair is in its normal unstretched state. It is referred to as A of alpha keratin. The original configuration of the hair is held in place by the bonding found in the cortex layers of the hair. As we stated earlier, keratin protein begins with an alpha helix building into protofibrils, microfibrils, macrofibrils, then cortex layers. The bonds in the hair are located within each and every alpha helix. The Hydrogen Bond The first bond we will discuss is the hydrogen bond. This bond is located between the coils of the alpha helix and is responsible for the ability of the hair to be stretched elasticity) and return back to its original shape. The hydrogen bonds allow us to change the shape of the hair temporarily with the aid of water. These bonds are electrolytically controlled and are the most readily broken down and the most readily reformed. These bonds are responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity (some would argue up to 99.9% of the hair’s elasticity). The Salt Bond The salt bond is also an ionic (electrolytically controlled) bond formed by the electron transfer from the side chain of a basic amino group (an amino acid with an 00C- group) to the side chain of an acidic amino acid, i.e. NH3+. (This is two positive and negative charges attracting one another.) This occurs in a position paralleled to the axis line of the rotation of the helix of the hair. The salt bond is responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity. The Cystine Bond The cystine bond also known as the disulfide bond, sulfur bond, or just S bond is formed by cross-links between cystine residues (amino acids) of the main polypeptide chains. This bond is perpendicular to the axis of the hair and between the polypeptide chains. Because of its position in the hair, it is responsible for the hair's toughness or abrasion resistance. (It actually holds the hair fibers together.) These cross-links are frequent in the hair fiber, with maximum of frequency of one cystine bond every four turns of the alpha helix. This is what enables us to permanent wave the hair. The Sugar Bond The sugar bond is formed between the side chain of an amino acid having an OH group and an acidic amino group. This bond is also formed perpendicular to the axis of the hair. Because of its position, it gives the hair toughness but little strength (5%). Some moisture is contributed to the hair as a by-product of this bonding. Isn't hair fun! :) General Facts about Hair Scientists claim that human beings will increasingly loose their hair, resulting in a totally naked being. Many hundred years have however to pass by until this awful prophecy will become true. Until then we have enough time to study and understand the life of hair. Hair is actually dead material when it leaves it's root - otherwise it would hurt very much when your hairdresser works with his scissor. Most people know about this fact, but did you know about other facts: On a normal scalp there are about 100-150 thousand hair fibers. A blonde head of hair has usually much more fibers than red or dark haired heads. Hair consists mainly of keratin, which is also responsible for the elasticity of fingernails. A single hair has a thickness of 0.02-0.04mm, so that 20-50 hair fibers next to each other make one millimeter. Hair is strong as a wire of iron. It rips after applying a force equivalent to 60kg, after it stretched itself for about 70%. The root of a hair fiber sticks in a bag in the skin. The fiber is pushed out of this bag about 0.35mm per day, making an average growth rate of 1cm, or half of an inch, per month. The growth rate is however very much related to the individual person, his age, his diet etc. Healthy hair has an average lifetime of 2-6 years. After a rest period of three months the single hair falls out, and a new fiber starts to grow out of the bag. The lifetime depends on circumstances and person, too. The lifetime of hair is responsible for the maximum of hair length you can have. Waist length hair takes about 6 years to grow out from a short hair cut, periodic trims included. If your hair has a lifecyle of 2 years, you will never achieve a nice waist length mane. The short and sweet of hair chemistry and how it effects your hair.... article by Mike Trobee ® 1996 I get questions everyday via email and in salons. " I have dry hair, I have limp hair, I have....what do I do?" The answer lies in knowing about your hair chemistry. Heat (blow dryers, irons, rollers, etc.) rob the hair of moisture and essential fatty acids. Chemicals do the same (perms, color, relaxers...) Mechcanical damage is important also - (brushing wet hair, combing, teasing, etc) can have negative effects on the cuticle layer of the hair. These are just some most avaiilable in the market.. althought i suggest you better consult experts in the the salon near you! So now how do we correct the problems? First, let's start by solving concerns BEFORE they start. Everyone ought to have: ¡× A detangling comb ¡× A thermal protector (ie.Paul Mitchell® "Seal and Shine") ¡× A good salon brand shampoo ¡× A good salon brand acidifier (a conditioner with a pH 3.0) [Paul Mitchell® "The Detangler"] ¡× A good leave in conditioner with UV protectors [Paul Mitchell® "The Cream"] ¡× A blow dryer with a "cool" setting ¡× A good styling tool - gel, spray gel, foam ¡× A good working hair spray [Paul Mitchell® "Fast Drying Sculpting Spray"] ¡× A good finishing spray [Paul Mitchell® "Freeze and Shine"] Most professional designers have these and that is why your hair feels so good when you leave the salon. 1) The detangling com is designed to be used on damp hair. Start at the ends and work up. 2) A thermal protector STOPS heat damage before it starts. Then there is no need to buy a "heavy duty reconstructor" 3) Most salon brand shampoos have a pH 4.5-5.5 and use gentle cleansers. Also generally they are more concentrated. 4) An acidifying conditioner compacts the cuticle. It detangles, adds body, adds natural shine, increases the alpha bonds in the hair - it is a must 5) The sun and tanning beds will cause chaos with the hair. Make sure your conditioner has plenty of sunscreen. 6) A "cool" setting on a dryer actually helps "set" the hair. It cause little damage. 7) A good foam. gel, spray gel... will add body and help your style. 8) A good "working spray" will aid you when blow drying, setting, sculpting, or using irons. It is a hair spray that can be applied to damp (if you wish) or dry hair. 9) Get a good 'finishing spray" - unlike a "working spray" a finishing spray will keep the hair or sections of the hair in place all day. 10) A last tip...do not do perms or color at home. Yes, you will spend less upfront but a cosmetologist will probably have to correct the damage. In the long run it will cost more. Different pepople have different colors of hair: Black, blond, and brown. What makes the color of hair different? The answer lies in melanophore. The hair roots contain pigment cells called melanin, which creates a black pigment. Melanophore is a chromatophore that sends pigment to new hair. The greater the amount of pigment sent to the hair, the darker the hair becomes. On the contrary, as the amount of pigment sent is reduced, the hair color turns brown and then blond. Some people believe that differences in hair color are caused by the differences in the intensity of ultraviolet rays contained in the sunlight, to which the hair is exposed. Baby hair begins to grow around the third month after conception within the womb of the mother. {Trichocysts} are first formed. They develop into hair follicles as the fetus grows, then become downy hairs several centimeters long when the baby is born. The total number of hairs is determined before the baby is born. After that, the number of hairs never increases. It just decreases. The number of hairs greatly varies for each person, from sixty thousand to one hundred and fifty thousand, and makes up one of natural characteristics of each person when they are born. We should take good care of our hair. Human beings have about one million and four hundred thousand hairs on their body, with about four hundred and fifty thousand of them to be found above the neck. These hairs include about one hundred thousand hairs on the head and about thirty thousand hairs taken up by mustaches, beards, or whiskers. The figure below illustrates average lengths of the hair (when it is left to grow naturally) and growth rates per day. The hairs on the head grow by about one centimeter per month and reach a length of around 70 centimeters if they are not cut. Hair grows at a faster rate in the spring and summer than in autumn and winter. Average length and growth rate per day : Hairs on the head 70cm / 0.35mm Eyebrows ‚Qcm / 0.15mm Mustaches (beards or whiskers) 28cm / 0.4mm Armpit hairs ‚Scm / 0.3mm Pubic hairs ‚Ucm / 0.2mm |
| In response to your request for information regarding the growth and nutrition of hair, particularly scalp hair of humans, I have done extensive research on the matter and wish to give you the following report: I. Growth and Development of Hair According to Myers and Hamilton (1) a follicle of the human scalp produces approximately .35 millimeters of hair shaft per day. Regardless of its size, only a small mass of cells at the base of the follicle, the matrix, produces this germinative tissue, and for the synthesis of complex proteins farther up in the follicle, to produce this much hair is of a magnitude greater than is found in most tissues (2). Within each follicle, mitotic activity of the cells of the matrix and synthesis of protein go on unceasingly as long as the hair is growing; growth, however, is periodically abruptly arrested and generation of a hair ceases. At this time there is a destruction of the major portion of the hair root and what cells remain enter a period of absolute quiescence. After a variable interval of time, the dormant follicle bursts into activity. A period of organogenesis follows during which an entirely new hair root is regenerated and the production of a hair is resumed. The cycles of growth of each follicle consist of the building up and tearing down of the structure. After a period of rest the follicle is built anew from raw materials and each hair follicle goes through the identical processes. It is important to point out at this point that many of the metabolic requirements of the cells of the hair follicle must be met at this time or adequate and optimal hair growth will not occur. This means that certain vitamins and minerals must be present in adequate proportions or there will be faulty or nonexistent hair growth. Abundant ribonucleic acid (RNA) is characteristic of those cells of the hair follicle that carry out appreciable protein synthesis. Deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) is found only in the nucleus of the hair follicle cell. Like that of RNA, the content of DNA increases in cells during division. An increase in DNA content appears to be indirectly related to an increase in protein synthesis (3). For this reason, those nutritional factors such as folic acid and B12 which are vital for synthesis of some of the building blocks of nucleic acid must be included in and formula for hair growth. These will be covered later in this report. Flesch (7) has reviewed the effect of diet on hair growth and states that impaired growth or loss of hair is a common and early nonspecific response to many nutritional deficiencies in animals. Van Koetsveld (8) has reviewed work on the influence of feeding on the coats of animals. In actively growing cells of the hair follicle, the glycogen content has been shown to be greatly increased (4&5). Very little of the glycogen is present in resting follicles and Montagna (6) assumes that the glycogen in the outer root sheath of the follicle is the source of the energy for protein synthesis during hair growth. For this reason, enzymes related to glucose metabolism and glycogen build-up are very important in hair growth and those minerals and vitamins used by the body as cofactors must be present in adequate amounts. II. Aging of the Human Scalp Montagna and Ellis (9) have done studies of the capillaries surrounding the hair follicles and have called attention to some of the striking changes that occur during the aging process in the human scalp. These observations have led to a comprehensive survey of the human male scalp from birth to senescence, and it will be shown that remarkable changes do occur in the cutaneous structure of the scalp and their accompanying blood vessels. Certain aging changes in the human male scalp such as a receding hairline, the gradual thinning and graying of the hair, and, frequently, the partial or complete balding are quite apparent. These are changes that involve the hair follicle and are the result of interactions between the sex hormones of the male and the genetic constitution of the individual (10). In Montagna and Ellis' book (see reference 2, page 474) they adequately demonstrate the fact that in an older person the total number of the capillary loops supplying the hair follicles is considerably diminished. This diminution of blood supplied to the hair follicle would of necessity require either greater blood flow through these follicles or an increased amount of nutrients of various types such as vitamins, minerals and amino acids in order to supple the hair follicle with the same amount of these materials. Since the former is unlikely, it appears that the latter course, mainly supplying more nutrients, would be the most logical way to keep the hair follicle in its presenescent state. Bullough (12) has shown that mitotic activity in the epidermis is dependent upon an adequate supply of glucose and oxygen. The scant subepidermal circulation in the aged scalp cannot provide a very rich supply of nutrients to the epidermis. The loss of rete pegs results in a considerable decrease in surface area at the dermal-epidermal junction, and this might be considered to be a compensatory factor. The causes of the circulatory changes are not known. There is a distinct correlation between the presence of hair in the scalp and the integrity of the subepidermal plexus of blood vessels. Even the scalps of very old subjects have remnants of the subepidermal plexus around growing hair follicles. I will now attempt to numerate some of the nutritional factors that should be present in any preparation designed to assist nutritionally with the growth and health of hair. I will begin with certain minerals which I feel are very important and progress from there to certain of the B-complex and other vitamins. |
| III. Zinc It has been known for many years that in animals when there is zinc deficiency, the hair follicles will atrophy (13&14). It has also been noted that there is a marked impairment of DNA and protein synthesis in experimental animals whenever zinc deficiency is present (15&16). And in fact, without DNA replication, growth and protein synthesis are severely limited (17&18). Studies by Altmann (19), Shin (20) and Tal (21) have shown that zinc influences the confirmation of nucleic acids. As previously mentioned, without the proper formation of nucleic acids, the cell replication and hence hair growth cannot occur normally. It has been shown in many species (22) that coarse and sparse growth of hair generally accompanies zinc deficiency. Duncan's textbook of diseases of metabolism (23) also points out the vital role which zinc plays not only in protein synthesis but in certain enzymes including carbonic anhydrase, malic dehydrogenase as well as lactic anglutamic dehydrogenasis. Malic dehydrogenase is very active in the Krebs cycle and lactic dehydrogenase is associated intimately with the glycolytic cycle. These enzymes are reviewed extensively in Duncan. For all the above reason related to its action and enzyme chemistry and protein synthesis, I recommend zinc as being a primary or being the primary mineral present in your formula. I would recommend, however, that when possible you utilize zinc gluconate or orotate as a more easily absorbed salt than zinc sulfate. I have found through experience that zinc sulfate occasionally will cause some gastrointestinal distress whereas I have never seen it with the gluconate or the orotate salt of zinc. IV. Copper Copper deficiencies in experimental animals have reduced the pigmentation of hair (24, 25, 26 & 27). According to Duncan (23), when human copper deficiency is observed it is the result of limited intake, inhibition of absorption or excessive loss of the metal. The importance of copper in hair metabolism is pointed out quite well by Fell (29) in his study of copper content of human tissues and body fluids. Fell points out that only two of the tissues in the body contain more copper than hair, mainly liver and brain tissue. Beinert (28) has shown that copper is present in the enzyme cytochrome oxidase, along with iron. This particular enzyme is very important in hydrogen transport mechanisms of respiration of the hair follicle cell. Another very important enzyme present in hair follicle cells is tyrosinase, present principally in the melanosomes of the skin and eye. This is an enzyme which catalyzes a series of reactions resulting in the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. This melanin is very important in certain types of hair color. Absence of tyrosinase or of its function results in albinism (30). You can see the importance, therefore, of copper in the metabolism of the hair follicle. Another important function of copper has been shown in experiments by Sieve (31). The graying of hair has been produced experimentally by this investigator by a lack of copper along with folic acid, pantothenic acid and PABA. While this particular experiment did not demonstrate that deficiency of copper alone caused graying, it certainly was suggested that copper deficiency plays an important factor in some cases of graying of the hair. In the synthesis of hair protein, the formation of disulfide bonds is very important for the integrity and structure of the hair itself. Copper has been shown to play an important catalytic role in the formation of these disulfide bonds (32&33). One demonstration of this or the effects of this defect of copper deficiency can be found in Menke's kinky hair syndrome which was described by Danks (34). In this particular defect there is a marked change in the texture of the hair caused by copper deficiency which can be corrected by the adequate addition of copper to the patient. The basic defect found in the hair is an abnormality of the hair shaft structure and increased virility of the hair. The serum copper is decreased and the hair sulphydryl-disulfide ratio is increased. The hairs appear similar to those found in the wool of copper deficient sheep and the defect appears to be associated in these patients with a defect in intestinal absorption of copper. It is postulated by Danks that copper deficiencies in general might produce a similar problem. Another hair pigment which is found in humans is called pheomelanin which appears to produce the yellow red pigment found in hair. According to Flesch and Rothman (35) and Russell (36), this is also a tyrosinase dependent pigment and requires copper for its action and its formation. It is postulated that lack of adequate copper for an enzyme cofactor would produce defective pigment formation in patients with yellow or red or combined coloring. Mason also points out that zinc is required in addition to copper for part of the chain of chemical reactions triggered by enzymes that finally produces melanin or its derivatives. V. Manganese and Iron I will cover manganese and iron together in the same section since some of the enzyme reactions and some of the biochemical pathways in which they are active are the same. Wacker (39) discusses nucleic acids and metals in his paper. It was found that chromium, manganese, nickel, iron and other metals were present in RNA from diverse biological sources, pointing out the importance of manganese and iron in the synthesis of RNA. Prasad (40&41) points out that manganese and iron are important in the Kreb cycle. Without the presence of adequate amounts of these two metals, the Kreb cycle of oxidative energy production cannot occur at optimal levels. Isocitric dehydrogenase (IDH) which is a manganese dependent enzyme and succinic dehydrogenase (SDH) which is an iron dependent enzyme are two important links in the chain of the Kreb cycle. Without optimal function of the Kreb cycle, adequate high energy phosphate bonds cannot be produced and therefore adequate glycogen which is vital for follicle growth cannot be built up to be used as energy at a later date. Histochemical studies of the hair follicle by Montagna (42) have shown how easily iron can be localized in the hair follicle and how important it is, both in the oxidative and hydrogen transport systems of the hair follicle. Incidentally, hydrogen transport is the usual method by which cells oxidize materials. Instead of direct addition of oxygen, hydrogen is removed which accomplishes the same thing, mainly oxidation of a compound. Another study by Cunningham (43) showed that iron deficiency could cause hairlessness in rats. VI. Iodine Iodine intake of many persons has been shown to be markedly deficient according to a study by Saxena (44). Organic iodine such as found in kelp is better retained (45) and less readily lost in the urine than potassium iodide (46). In thyroid deficiency caused by low iodine intake in certain experimental animals, there was loss of hair as noted by Cuthbertson (47). This indicated the importance of an adequate supply of iodine and its formation into thyroxine for hair growth to proceed normally and at optimal levels. Thyroxine then stimulates a spontaneous replacement of hair in intact and thyroid hormone deficient animals (2, page 369). The cycle of growth remains normal regardless of how activity is initiated in the follicle. The mechanism of thyroid action on hair growth is not known, but it is believed that this may enhance the utilization of essential nutrients by the follicle (48). Perhaps thyroxine stimulates the skin and hair follicles directly and acts at the mydocondrial level of organization on exidited enzyme systems. VII. Folic Acid and B12 An adequate supply of nucleic acids for formation of nucleo-proteins must be present at the hair follicle site for adequate and healthy hair growth to occur. both folic acid and vitamin B12 appear to be separately concerned with production of nucleic acids (50). Some believe that vitamin B12 is concerned with the synthesis of uracil, one of the building blocks of RNS and that folic acid converts uracil to thiamine, which is found in the RNA as a very necessary component (51). It has been noted that persons made deficient in folic acid often become completely bald, but the hair grows in normally after the vitamin is given (52). reference is made to the article by Sieve (31) in which lack of folic acid is one of the components which cause graying of hair with restoration to its natural color when replacement therapy was given. A folic acid deficiency prevents dozens of important physiological functions: interferes with the utilization of sugar and amino acids, stops all cell division and healing, and causes the hair, eyebrows and eyelashes to fall out (53,54&55). Almost all of these functions are related to adequate and healthy hair growth. The folic acid / tetrafolic acid system provides a unique mechanism for the reduction of carbon to methyl that can be transferred to a methyl acceptor. This is the explanation of the synthesis of choline, creatine and other methyl containing metabolites in animals fed diets deficient in sources of preformed methyl. Thus the folic acid / tetrafolic acid system is a vital part of the metabolism of man and is very important in the synthesis of hair follicle proteins and structural compounds. The folic acid / tetrafolic acid system by reversed reactions also provides a mechanism for the addition of partially oxidized carbon during the synthesis of serinen to such structures as the purine and pyrimidine rings (ref 56, page 47). Duncan (23) has described folic acid deficiency as possibly the most common vitamin deficiency in North America today. Its prevalence seems to be on the increase and responsibility for this at least in part rests on the exclusion of folic acid from many diets in this country today. Many physicians hesitate to give folic acid and many patients hesitate to take folic acid because of the fear that it might correct the anemia of certain B12 deficiencies while allowing neurological manifestations to progress. According to Duncan there may be many reasons for the deficiency of folate including dietary lack, impaired absorption, increased requirements, antagonism from drugs prescribed for patients and lack of protection of folate coenzymes that is related to either vitamin C or iron deficiency. Studies show that vitamin B12 is closely related in function to four of the important amino acids or forms of protein, folic acid, and pantothenic acid. Thus without vitamin B12, the function of the nutritional elements may not be optimal (57). Duncan (23) has also pointed out the function of vitamin B12 in immediate reduction and isomerization reactions. It is intimately related metabolically with folic acid. In this regard, vitamin B12 can alter the reduction level of the single carbon units transferred by folic acid coenzymes. It participates in the reduction of ribos to deoxy ribos, converting uracil ribotide to uracil deoxyribotide prior to the addition of a single carbon unit by folic acid coenzyme to form thiamine deoxyribotide. In addition, vitamin B12 is an accessory to folic acid in some transmethylation reactions and may be necessary for the activity of folic acid conjugases. The conversion of methyl malonyl CoA to succinyl CoA requires vitamin B12, and in the deficiency state, large amounts of methyl malonylate are excreted in the urine. For all the reasons cited above and to somewhat repeat myself, it is important for any actively growing tissues such as the hair follicle to have adequate supplies of folic acid and vitamin B12 present daily for optimal hair growth and for healthy hair growth to occur. Therefore, i strongly agree with the addition of these most important elements to your vitamin formula, Head Start. VIII. Choline and Inositol Choline and inositol are also very important for the metabolism of hair both in a direct and indirect manner. It has been noted that thyroxine cannot be made without choline (58) and that rats become hairless if kept on diets low in inositol (59). Inositol was mentioned in the Science Newsletter (60) in 1956. It was stated there that inositol was needed for growth and survival of cells and bone marrow, eye membranes, embryos, gut and other rapidly growing tissues like hair follicles. Inositol has been known to appear in human hair with speculation as to its value in restoring color to gray hair. In the book "Inositol" (61) published by Corn Products Sales Company, Many observed physiological values of inositol are listed. Choline is important in methylation reactions that result in the formation of thiamines and thymydylic acids from uracil and deoxyuridilic, respectively. Of great importance is the occurrence of additional methylation reactions that are believed to occur after nucleatides are built into polymeric, macro molecular nucleic acids (62). Changes in hair pigment were produced by omission of choline or pantothenic acid from the diet (63) and Wooley (64) showed the relationship of choline and inositol to growth of hair in animal experiments. Engle (65) found inositol to be an essential growth factor for normal cells including hair follicle cells. And Wooley (66) showed that spontaneous cure of alopecia in animals was dependent on an adequate supply of inositol. In light of the apparently essential role that choline and inositol play in the growth and proper nutrition of hair cells, it would be certainly logical to include both of these important compounds in any formula supplying the needs of the hair. IX. Calcium Pantothenate Pantothenic acid and its calcium salt, calcium pantothenate are also quite important in hair growth and in nutrition of the actively growing hair follicle cells. As previously mentioned in a paper by Owens (63) changes in hair pigment were produced by omission of either choline or pantothenic acid from the diet. Pantothenic acid was found by Wooley (67&68) to influence alopecia in animal experiments. Flesch (7) has noted that one of the deficiencies said to cause impaired hair growth is pantothenic acid. Deficiency of pantothenic acid and riboflavin in black children not only caused depigmentation, but made their hair grow straight (69). This deficiency seems to be associated with the utilization of copper. The skin of rats deficient in pantothenic acid may contain as much as five times the amount of copper in normal skin, ie: the copper cannot be utilized and accumulates (70). One can therefore see the complex relationship of the vitamins and minerals to each other and to the proper growth of the hair follicle cells. Pantothenic acid and inositol functions are related in that too little pantothenic acid in the diet appears to disrupt the function of inositol (57). Rodell's book on the vitamins gives a number of references to graying of hair and paraminobenzoic acid and panthenol as well as the efficiency of unsaturated fatty acids when adequate supplies of pantothenic acid are present. It should be pointed out that where unsaturated fatty acid deficiencies are present you may find dry skin, brittle, lusterless falling hair and dandruff. Therefore, the pantothenic acid appears to have a rather protective effect on these unsaturated fatty acids. Reference is also made by an article in the British Medical Journal (71) to restoration of color to gray hair using pantothenic acid in certain experiments. Pantothenic acid functions and is present in all living cells, mostly in the form of coenzyme A. CoA is the cofactor of one of the most important enzymes of intermediate metabolism. It is formed by joining pantothenic acid with other materials to form a structure of coenzyme A. CoA activates acetate by converting it to an acetyl CoA. The pivotal compound for many pathways. Duncan (23) states that acetyl CoA is concerned with #1 - acetylation of choline, aromatic amins and other substances detoxified by acetylation; #2 - synthesis of fatty acids, acetoacetic acid, cholesterol and styroids; and #3 - oxidation of pyruvate. For our purposes in designing a formula which would help stimulate the metabolism of the hair follicle, the third is the most important. In the metabolism of glucose and other substances, pyruvate plays a pivotal role. In order to enter the Kreb cycle and produce energy by oxidation it is necessary to change pyruvate to acetate in order for the two carbon acetates to enter the Kreb cycle. Without adequate supplies of coenzyme A this will be impossible and the hair follicle nutrition will suffer. Therefore, it is an absolute necessity that pantothenic acid be added to this formula. X. Paramino Benzoic Acid In the experiment by Sieve (31) the lack of copper, folic acid, pantothenic acid and PABA influences the intestinal bacteria so that they can produce folic acid and folic acid in turn helps the body to assimilate pantothenic acid. Ansbacher (72) also seems to give corroboration to the theory of the action of PABA and pantothenic acid in protecting the natural color of the hair. XI. Niacin Those preceding nutrients in the B complex and niacin have been found to be very important in the nutrition of various experimental animals and the vitamin B complex taken over long periods has been found to restore human hair pigmentation (73). There was also an article by Hudgins (74) concerning the peripheral blood vessel dilating effect of niacin which would include, of course, the blood vessels of the scalp. Frost (75) has noted that dietary deficiencies of certain vitamins can cause achromotrichia (problems with hair color). Bullough (12) has shown that there is a known dependence of epidermal mycosis on the active respiration of the epidermal cells. His experiments show that this was also similarly dependent in the follicular matrix. Energy produced through the oxidation of carbohydrates is the primary source of the energy necessary for synthesis of hair cells or of hair in the follicle. Both in the oxidation of glucose and glycogen and in the formation of glycogen from its precursors. This is doubly important in the hair follicle cell since the synthetic potential of the proliferating cells of the follicle bulb is high relative to that of other tissues (ref 2, page 307). In summary, certain vitamins, minerals and amino-acids are crucial to the metabolic pathways involved in keratin protein metabolism. Without the nutrients cited, the hair growth process will slow or cease. Therefore, I conclude that there is an adequate research basis to justify product effectiveness claims for a vitamin, mineral and amino-acid complex designed to supply the nutrients needed by healthy growing hair. from THE BOOK OF Nioxin ,Aminixil and Paul Hagan, M.S. |
| Diet and Your Hair The quality of your hair reflects in part the adequacy of your diet: regular, well-rounded meals are best for you and your hair. Consuming extra protein or amino acid preparations will not promote hair growth. In fact, there is evidence that megadoses of some vitamins-particularly A and E may contribute to hair loss. Iron deficiency, due to inadequate consumption of red meat or heavy menstrual bleeding in women, could cause hair shedding. Crash diets and eating disorders such as anorexia nervosa can damage hair dramatically. Various claims are made for the value of analysis of hair samples-- measuring its mineral content -- as a means of assessing nutritional status or detecting nutritional deficiencies, but the process has no validity and can be considered one of the many scams aimed at appealing to people concerned about their health. The chance of getting accurate information from a single hair strand is nil. The results are distorted by contamination from sweat, the shampoos, conditioners, sprays and coloring agents used to groom hair, and by the hair's rate of growth. It's highly questionable whether the metal or mineral content of a hair accurately reflects amounts elsewhere in the body |
| HOW AMMONIA. DEVELOPERS AND HEAT AFFECT THE HAIR STRUCTURE 1. AMMONIA Ammonia is used in permanent (oxidative) haircolor. When the permanent haircolor and the developers come together, the action of ammonia begins. Like all alkaline, the ammonia has the tendency to separate the cuticle and allows the permanent haircolor to penetrate the cortex of the hair. The ammonia has an effect on the sulfur bonds of the hair. If the ammonia is too harsh, the hair will lose more of the sulfur bonds than necessary. It will cause the hair to harden, lose weight and diameter. 2. DEVELOPERS The higher the volume of the developer, the greater the amount of sulfur is removed from the hair structure. This is one of the reasons why the limitations of the developers be maintained at 30 volume or less for the majority of haircoloring. When we lighten natural hair, the oxidation of the melanin will give a reduction of the natural pigments. Decoloration will have an effect on the natural pigments. They will act especially on the granular pigments and will act progressively as the action of the decoloration takes place. The granular pigments will transform into diffused pigments which explains the apparitions of the reflect more or less intense as the decoloration processes. 3. HEAT High heat and the length of time high heat is used on the hair will also reduce the structure of the hair. The hair will lose its elasticity. Damage to the cuticle of the hair will make it more breakable. Steam will form inside the hair shaft which in turn will burst hair by breaking it. This is why we need to limit the amount of heat as well as the length of time you dry the hair. Problems and suggestions (a guide only) When coloring virgin or natural color hair start where the color is the darkest, This is usually the nape of the neck or at the crown When the ends are faded use your regular formula except where the hair is too porous to hold color. Apply one level darker to the ends with a small amount of gold or yellow accent to provide warmth and highlights The ends will not color (hold color) usually because the they are too porous and need to be filled before appplication of the tint formula. Use the color selected or 1/2 to 1 shade darker, with no developer added then apply. Then dry into the effected area of the hair. Apply your formula as usual and the color should hold. Summer hair will not hold color because of the damaging effects of the sun, heat, or water. Increase conditioning repair to correct the porosity. Do this on a continueing basis. When blonde hair becomes greenish because of chemical in swimming pools This can be corrected by using a warm (red or gold) accent. Also be sure to recommend a good clarifier (or clarifying shampoo) A greenish cast will result when a blue based color is applied to yellow or gold hair. Substituting a violet based color will result in a more natural color. When pre-lightening for red hair never process above the orange stage When light reddish blondes turn orange as the color fades add a small amount of red-gold for highlights Pink hairlines on gray hair tinted red require a small amount of natural brown the same level or darker to add depth. Apply color starting at the back of the head and add the additional brown for the hairline only. When current color is darker than a new shade selected a color remover must be used to remove the old tint up to a level equal to the new desired shade Color removers are designed to remove artificial color. They will not be effective for lightening virgin hair "Washing out" and "removing" a tint are not the same. "Washing out" the tint is done at the end of the color process to remove what has not been absorbed into the hair. "Removing" the tint is taking the color out of the hair, usually in preparation for apllication of a lighter color If hair is too red after using a color remover ash or violet accents may be added to neutralize unwanted warm tones When hair is predominately gray start application where hair is the grayest. Use one shade darker than the target color.In the absence of any color in the hair, the shade will appear lighter Very pale or processed hair has little or no red or gold pigment. Remember, highlights come from warm tones. It may be necessary to add warm accents (with no additional developer) to prevent colors from appearing too violet, too blue, or green; esp. where the hair is most resistant;ie. the hairline On hair going increasingly gray a ligher color may be more desirable as the outgrowth is less noticeable Pre-softening gray hair may be necessary if the hair is very resistant and coarse. Follow manufacturer's directionsand alway dry hair before applying the tint.Color applied to damp or wet hair will become diluted and the result will be unsatisfactory. A resistant gray hairline should have the color applied firstand then again after the rest of the hair has been done. Consider increasing the process time within the limits of the directions. Possibily one shade darker could be applied to the hairline only. To cover natural gray streak use one shade darker than the natural color. You may have to increase the process time. A green cast on gray or pre-lightened pale yellow hair Adding a small amount of red or gold as an accent will cut the green. Yellow bleed through on pre-lighten hair may occur when the tint shade is not dark enough. The color must be the same level or darker than the level of the hair. More to come... The Mordancage Technique (For grey hair which is very resistant or 80%-100% grey) ° Hair Color) 1) Apply 20 vol. or 30 vol. straight on the hair. 2) Place client under a hot dryer for 5-7 minutes. 3) Rinse out and towel blot any excess peroxide. 4) Proceed with color application and processing. This technique allows the hair to be more receptive to accepting color by softening the cuticle layers. It is NOT designed to lighten the hair. If left on for 10 minutes or longer the hair will begin to lighten. DO NOT USE THIS TECHNIQUE: - For hair which is natural at the roots but lightened by the sun on the lengths and points. This is an indication that the hair is not resistant. - On very short or fine hair. On this type of hair, color can be applied directly to the hair without preliminary preparation. PASTELS IS THE NEW COLOUR TRENDS |
