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What Is
Fashion |
1.Fashion
Modeling
2.Commercial Modeling
3.Glamour Modeling
Fashion Modeling
The Garment and Beauty product industries are large users of models. People want
to see what clothes or beauty products look like on somebody. Your high fashion,
designer-label garments, are designed for what fashion designers view as the
"ideal woman." This is someone tall and slender, somewhat leggy, with a swan
like neck. In major markets like New York, this is someone who is at least 5'9"
tall and a size six. For men it is at least 6 foot tall and a 40 regular - of
course. you have to have that "look" to go with the clothes. In secondary
markets we would like to have this but often work with fashion models that don't
meet these measurements. It is more important you just have a look of being tall
and slender and that sample clothes will fit you. The "look" calls for more of
the classic beauty than the extreme looks you find in the fashion magazines.
In addition to the above numbers there are some general descriptive terms for
the "model look." The industry looks for someone who is small to medium boned,
fit but not buff. With a long graceful swan like neck, a square jaw and high
strong cheek bones. The eyes should be wide set, almond shaped and even, with
thick eye lashes. Skin should be clear, small pored, even toned with no scares,
tattoos, or piercing. Lips should be medium to full and teeth should be straight
and white. Shoulder should be broad and have a long legged look. You should have
good posture and be able to carry yourself gracefully. Hair should be healthy
and in good condition.
Types of Fashion modeling:
FASHION EDITORIAL MODELING - Vogue, Elle, Glamour, Cosmo, etc. - these and many
other magazines today that focus on fashion have lots of editorial pages they
must fill each month. Many of these editorial pages feature models wearing what
the magazine thinks will be the next trend in fashion. Editorial work does not
pay as well as other types of high fashion modeling but it is great for building
a model's reputation and getting tear sheets for one's portfolio. Also, because
fashion magazines are not as constrained as advertising work, they can use more
'extreme' and 'special beauty' models in their pages.
FASHION RUNWAY MODELING - Clothing designers traditionally show their new
collections twice a year (Fall and Spring) to perspective buyers. Designers
present these collections to a gathering of buyers by sending models down a
walkway or runway. How well a model brings the clothes to life and shows
important features of the garments can determine how well they sell. So it is
worth it to a designer to have the most ideal models show these collections.
This leads to why models have to meet very strict requirements and why they get
such high fees for this type of work. These young models tend to be very tall,
slender and move very well in clothes.
FASHION CATALOG MODELING - There are a lot of clothing catalogs produced. These
catalogs, whether business-to-business, store, or direct marketing, require
models to pose in the clothes they are trying to sell. Generally, catalog models
are picked for a project because they represent the ideal of the market segment
for which that catalog is targeted. Often times this is the classic beauty -
tall, slender, healthy, and beautiful. The marketing idea is for transference,
i.e. if you buy these clothes you will look as nice as the person pictured in
the catalog. Catalog modeling usually pays well because of the volume of photos
that must be taken.
FASHION PRINT MODELING - This is fashion and beauty for print advertising. It
can be display ads or collateral print materials. This is the most demanding
work to get but pays the best because of usage and exclusives. These are the ads
that can make or break a designer's reputation. With these ads it is very
important that the concept, photo, and model work perfectly to convey the
'image' that is wanted.
FASHION SHOW ROOM MODELING - Modeling for buyers in the designer's show room.
FASHION LINGERIE MODELING - Because this type of modeling may be more revealing
it requires very good body tone and proportions.
FASHION BATHING SUIT MODELING - Again, more revealing requires excellent body
tone and a healthy look.
FASHION FITNESS MODELING - As health and fitness has moved more into the public
consciousness a greater demand has grown in this type of modeling. Of course
being in the city with the corporate headquarters for Nike, Adidas, Columbia
Sportswear and now, it is very noticeable here. Where once everyone
exercised in baggy gray sweats, fitness attire continues to evolve and become
more everyday wear. Add to this all of the fitness, health, and outdoor
lifestyle magazines that are on the newsstands and you have a fast growing
category for modeling.
FASHION FIT MODELING - Fit models have the perfect proportions for a given
clothing size. Garment manufactures and designers hire fit models to use to
piece together new creations, see how they move, and develop their patterns. The
key for a fit model is to never gain or loose an inch. Fit models can be hired
by manufacturers in permanent salary positions. It is one type of legitimate
modeling that you can see advertised in the classified section of the newspaper.
FASHION TEAROOM MODELING - This once was very popular in smaller markets.
Usually it would be at ladies' luncheons where models would wander between
tables wearing designer clothes from local fashion boutiques. The models would
describe the outfit they wore and where to buy it. Not big bucks, but a place to
start and gain confidence in a small market.
FURTHER DIVISIONS - These categories can have further sub-categories for size -
petite and plus, and for age - children, preteen, and mature. Petite size models
usually are 5'2" to 5'6". Plus size is the same height as standard size models
but size 14 -16. Main stream models usually start in around 14 years of age and
go to their early twenties. Obviously pre-teen is before this age and mature is
everything after it.
A category of modeling will only be found where there are clients to support it.
Since almost all of the fashion magazines are based in New York, that is where
you will find work in the fashion editorial modeling category.
Body Part Modeling
Body part modeling is a special category that belongs in both fashion and
commercial modeling. This is the use of just part of the body in a photograph.
Often standard models that look great in full length shots or head shots don't
look so good close up. Their hands or feet may look horrible. This is where the
body parts model comes in. We will set up a shoot using the standard model's
face but the body part model's hands and it looks like it is just one person.
Usually body part models will specialize in just one part of the body like
hands, feet, legs, ears, or neck.
With hand models we look for long slender graceful hand and fingers. We also
look for smooth (no wrinkles, hair or large pours), clear (no blemishes or
irregular color) skin, and very good nails. The ability to pose the hand in a
relaxed graceful fashion is very important. This is like a hula dancer that can
tell a story with their hands and avoid what I call "the claw" that most folks
produce when put in front of the camera.
Body parts model follow a similar path ad regular models with finding modeling
agencies, building portfolios and having comp cards. They simply pursue a very
special niche market.
Commercial Modeling
Commercial modeling is sort of the catch all for everything that isn't fashion
and isn't glamour. It is vast and diverse. The physical requirements can vary
greatly. The 'look' can be mom, business executive, scientist, glamorous beauty,
etc. Again, the purpose is to sell something - a product, service, or idea.
Some Categories of Commercial Modeling are:
COMMERCIAL PRODUCT MODELING - Generally we are generating a photo to sell a
product and the model is used to show how the product is used. Also, model may
be used to convey an image about a product. An example would be a model dressed
like a doctor holding a blood pressure device. This gives an image of medical
authority being behind the product. There is also the old Madison Avenue
technique of selling a product by putting someone attractive by it. Although it
may not be politically correct to do this, it still is done and it works. People
stop to look at a pretty face, not at another vanilla computer box. The physical
requirements and look for commercial product modeling can vary a great deal. It
all depends on the image or story you are trying to tell. This is where
character models are used.
COMMERCIAL LIFESTYLE MODELING - Models are used in photos showing a period of
life or doing something in life. The photo might be an older couple walking on
the beach and the photo is used in the advertising materials for a new
retirement resort. Or a photo of a young couple playing in a park with their
children and the photo is used in an ad for a life insurance company. The models
are used to act out some concept or idea of life. The physical requirements,
age, size, etc. can vary greatly. But they always use the "beautiful people" in
these photos.
COMMERCIAL CORPORATE MODELING - Corporate modeling is like Lifestyle but it
always has a business theme. Again physical requirements can vary greatly, but
usually attractive people are used - although sometimes character models are
used.
PRODUCT DEMO - In smaller markets this seems to be a favorite area to start
models. Models stand in front of, or in a store or mall, and hand out free
samples of something. The idea is they want someone attractive that people will
be drawn to and will work for just a few hours or a few days. When you are young
and starting out this pays better then any regular job and it can really build
your confidence around people.
TRADE SHOW MODELING - Once again attractive people are attention getters. When a
trade show comes to town some exhibitors may hire models to hand out literature
at their booths. One of the classics examples of this is the auto show. Again,
it gives some income when you are starting out and gets you in front of the
public.
Glamour Modeling
Glamour modeling is modeling for photos with a sexual theme. These could be
simple cheesecake or beefcake photos. They can include bikini, sexy outfits and
lingerie modeling. On the cheesecake level, photos can be used for calendars,
posters, and other pin-up girl products. You can't pick up a car magazine
without seeing a babe by the car or truck. As one moves to greater states of
undress you move to the adult entertainment industry with high-end men's
magazines like Playboy and then on down to the low-end back-ally magazines. And
let's not forget the Internet that is now loaded with all levels of sexual
photos. When considering all parts of this side of modeling it is a very big
industry and top glamour models can make as much as top fashion models. There
are no height or size requirements as in fashion modeling. Where fashion
modeling wants you to look like a beanstalk, glamour modeling wants you to have
curves like Pamela Anderson. Where fashion may want a 'special beauty look',
glamour modeling wants traditional drop dead gorgeous; where fashion really only
happens in New York, glamour can happen anywhere.
You need to be over 18 to do glamour modeling even cheesecake. With the way the
laws are today a photographer runs a real risk doing any kind of sexy photo with
someone under 18. If mothers are being thrown in jail for photographing their
own children taking a bath and putting the photo in a family album, I think the
risk is too great and the return too small to do any glamour work with someone
under 18. But this certainly opens up the field for women in their 20's, 30's,
40's and we my even begin seeing more good looking grandmothers in their 50's
showing up.
This field is easy to get started in as there a lots of photographs who would
love to do test shoots and photo assignments on spec. Getting into the high
paying work can take as much effort as becoming a high fashion model.
Modeling Glossary
AFTRA - American Federation
of Radio and Television Artists a
television performers union.
Age Category - The age range you appear to be. Generally between 5 - 7
years over or under your actual age.
Art Director - The person responsible for developing the look of an ad,
editorial or other visual presentation. Can be a an independent contractor or
employed by an advertising agency, a magazine or photographer.
Beauty Shot - a clean headshot with excellent makeup and simple
hairstyle. A beauty shots shows your face in an elegant and beautiful manner. No
big hair, no heavy jewellery or anything that distracts from your skin, bone
structure and overall features.
Billing Form - (see also Voucher) A form used by models to record the
names of clients, job descriptions, number of hours worked, rate of pay, and
expenses. The model has the client sign the form (voucher) and will give the
client one copy, the agency one copy and will keep one copy for herself.
Book - the model's portfolio book of photos.
Booker - A person working in a modeling agency who books jobs, schedules
appointments and assignments for models.
Booking - A modeling job or paid assignment.
Booking Conditions - Factors that may exist in a booking and for which
the model may be paid more. An agency establishes booking conditions that
outline fee specifications for cancellations, weather permitting bookings,
overtime or weekend fees, or bonuses for a variety of other conditions.
Booking Out - When a model books out he or she makes specific hours or
days they are unavailable for assignments.
Buy-out - An arrangement in which a client will issue a model a one-time
payment for use of their work rather than pay residuals.
Call Back - A second audition or meeting with the client so they can see
you again before they make a final hiring decision.
Cattle Call - (see also Go-See) A mass interview or audition where
numerous models attend.
Chart - A file or sheet used to chart a model's schedule, appointments
and other activities.
Composite - Often referred to as a comp card. A card used to promote the
model that contains several photos, the model's stats and contact information.
Contact Sheet - A sheet developed by a photographer showing all the shots
from a roll of film so photos that can be selected quickly and easily. Can be in
black and white or color.
Day Rate - The rate charged for a model's services for a full 8 hour day
of work.
Editorial Print - Fashion pages of a magazine that are produced by the
magazine itself to portray current trends, clothing and fashion ideas. Editorial
work does not pay as well as commercial print which is work done for an actual
paying client.
Fitting - When the model tries on clothing and outfits to make sure they
fit properly and can be altered before a booking such as fashion show,
commercial or print shoot.
Fitting Model - A model who is used by designers and fashion houses,
usually on a regular basis. The model would have the perfect measurements that
fit industry standards. Can be any size and are not required to have the facial
bone structure required by to be a print model.
Go-See - (see also Cattle Call) A mass interview or audition where
numerous models attend.
Haute Couture - The french word for high fashion.
Headsheet - A poster or brochure of the model's the agency represents
that is presented to clients. Usually contains the model's headshot and stats.
Mini Book - A smaller version of the model's book that can be sent to
clients. Photos are usually 5 x 7 inches.
SAG - Screen Actors Guild
Sed Card - Pronounced Zed Card. Another name for composite card.
Apparently named after a German agent who invented it.
Stats - The models statistics such as height, bust, waist, hips. For men
it is height, chest and waist.
Tearsheet - An actual page from a magazine, catalog or other print job in
which the model has worked.
Test - A test photoshoot usually paid for by the model to test different
looks and start building their books with photos.
TFP - TFP means Time for Prints. It is when a model will exchange their
time to pose for a photographer and the photographer will in turn give the model
prints for their book. Usually this is done by a photographer who may be
building their own portfolio or they want to try new lighting techniques or
styles.
Voucher - An invoice that is signed by the model and the client after the
model completes a job. The model will hand in their vouchers to the agency so
that the client can be billed and the model can be paid.