The flight was long and delayed in NY for an hour due to fog. Was seated next to a Russian Orthodox Priest. He certainly looked the part with his beard and all but was actually born in America of Russian Immigrant parents. His congregation sponsors a couple of Russian orphanages and he comes over once a year to inspect them. He has been doing this for a couple of decades now.
Rose gave me a St. Christopher's medal for the trip so seizing the opportunity I ask him if the Orthodox Church recognized this saint. He said that the churches had all saints in common before 1072 when the split occurred and was kind enough to bless my medal for me. As far as I'm concerned an Eastern blessing is just right for an Eastern trip!
Breezed through customs and found Natalia, my guide in Moscow. She is a pleasant woman, of indeterminate age, blonde hair and blue eyes, stylishly dressed and possessed of excellent English.
Moscow Photos Start Here
The Moscow car is out of order so we rode a mini-bus taxi out of the airport and then caught a gypsy-taxi into the city. The system is that you stand at the side of the road and put your hand out and within moments a car pulls over to offer a ride. This can be either someone who makes their living such or just someone who happens to be going that way looking to make a few Rubles on the way. Negotiations are intense and occasionally rude when unsuccessful but after several tries Natalia found a price that worked and off we went.
The first impression is the a barrage of advertising along the road, much of it for western products and in fact we soon passed a large and brand new Ikea store. The second impression is that Russia is apparently behind in the concept of smog control. There are 10,000,000 people in the city and it often seems that they are all driving at once. Actually Natalia assured me that traffic was light (if chaotic) at the moment and that gridlock is the rule for rush hour. Chaotic is the only real word that comes to mind as the Russians are perhaps the most aggressive drivers I have seen, and I've traveled some. They delight in high speed weaving for advantage and delight in cutting off and squeezing out other drivers. No quarter asked, none given here though it seems to work for them and fender benders are not so common as it seems they ought to be.
The Hotel Ukraina is housed in one of four huge cathedral-like buildings built around the city in the 1950's. They suggest the phrase "Grand Soviet Architectural Statement". The lobby is marble and glass and heroic paintings and grand chandeliers and seems appropriate for a Bond movie perhaps. The rooms however are rather plain but functional with high ceilings with molded plaster that suggest an age more Victorian than 1950. We took the trolley-bus into town and walked down "Old Arbat" Street, which is a sort of tourist shopping promenade, local art colony, historic type area with a typical mix of art and schlock that you might expect in such a place. It was pleasant on a fine Spring day and a nice way to decompress after the plane ride.
Decided to change some money and there were lots of places advertising great rates. The high rates however were reserved for $50 bills and above and these places wouldn't even deal with my measly $20 bills. We settled for a lower rate at a walk-up kiosk but one must wonder who is dropping large enough numbers of larger denomination bills in Moscow that some moneychangers won't even bother with 20s. Seems a little shaky to me.
Leaving Arbat we just strolled through town. Natalia is a Moscow girl (though not a native) and enjoys showing the town. She likes taking her vacation time on warm quiet beaches but is always happy to return to the fast paced excitement of the city. She has visited several European nations but not the states as tourist visas are hard for Russians to get from our state department as they suspect Russians will try to use them for illegal immigration. Her comment was that contrary to American perceptions, not everybody wants to be an American. This was a comment I heard several times during my short stay.
Her day job is with a university in their "student foreign affairs office" but that the pay is low, about $200 a month so she has to moonlight giving tours. She stays in spite of the low pay because as an employee her son gets preferential enrollment in the school.
We passed Pushkin's Moscow home and they church where he was wed and the first McDonald's in Russia, very historic stuff. There's a t-shirt for sale here that shows Lenin under The Arches with the label "McLenin's". I think that about describes today.
Most of Moscow is relatively new for an ancient city as it has been built of wood and burned several times. Much of it was built during Soviet times where function over form was the rule so faceless buildings abound, mixed with occasional older treasures. Newer buildings continue this mix though a real architectural boldness seems to be emerging in some of the new construction.
Arriving back at the hotel I find my own building lit up in quite a spectacular fashion I hope the picture turns out. I can see another of the four in the distance from my hotel window... beautiful!
I tried to call Rose when I got back but I could not make the phone work so I sent her an email instead. I was kind of bushed so I went to a local shop and brought cheese and salami and bread which was a mini-adventure in itself. Fortunately the Ruble is about 30 to $1 so it's easy to calculate prices. Good eats except that my salami tastes like fish... hmmm...
5/13
Woke at 0430 but that was all I could do for sleep, about 6 hours but I feel Ok. Took a long soaking bath and read a bit in the tub. The tub is old fashioned and deep and I haven't been able to stretch out like that in a bathtub in a long while, pretty nice!
Went down to breakfast and there are two sides to the buffet as I discovered after I was loaded up with food. I had chosen the "Russian" side and missed the ham and eggs in favor of cabbage rolls, some shredded meat dish, cold cuts, cheese and hard-boiled eggs. It was all OK, but tomorrow I think I'll try the "American" side, as I might not see such food for a while.
I reached Rose by phone after breakfast. There are three dialing plans in the booth and it took me a while to find the right one. I suspect that these were earlier instructions that they just neglected to take down when the new system went into effect. Told Rose I was calling her from the future as I was calling her on Tuesday morning but it was still Monday night back in Napa.
Met Natalia in the lobby and off we went to view the Kremlin, which was the original fortress of the city and dates back centuries. Saw many beautiful old churches, including some from the 1400s with icons dating from the 11th century. The icon work was superb with clear perspective in several pieces dated well before the Renaissance when the Italians were still painting flat faces. The interiors of the churches were stunning with silver and gold adorning the icons and the gospel beautifully painted out for the illiterate as in all ancient European churches.
Passed the Czars palace and he had pretty fine digs. Though these have been restored to their pre revolution glory, they are being used as government offices and are not open to the public. This was the source of considerable frustration for Natalia, especially since the government had spent millions on the restoration.
Another church contained the sarcophagi of many Metropoles (Orthodox Popes) and Czars and their families and even Ivan the terrible was there but had a spot behind the alter where common folks can't browse.
Made over to Red Square in time to view Lenin, or what's left of him. The guards were very strict and watchful; no talking (or whispering) and keep moving. No cameras and they search bags and purses to make sure but they missed mine in the bottom of Natalia's purse. There's no way you can snap Lenin anyway because the guards are right there watching your every move. Anyway he's in fine shape for the shape he's in. It's a thing to do, I guess but the whole affair was very strange.
Also walked along the Kremlin wall where there are many famous graves in and along the wall including Stalin's.
Posed with a couple of museum doormen dressed like Cossacks. When I asked for a picture they said in deep forceful tones, "You want picture, you pay 50 rubles!" It is the custom here for all men to speak as deeply as possible with a forceful emphasis to their speech... which makes most Russian men speaking English sound like a parody of themselves. I try not to grin as I give them the 50 rubles.
Left the Kremlin by way of the famous St. Basil's cathedral and walked around town a bit before lunch. I had a slice of pizza and Natalia had Salmon, which can be had at a casual cafeteria here. The bill foe the two of us came to about $15 and Natalia was thinking it a pretty big tab but I told her it was cheap by Stateside standards.
Walking around town I was struck by how fit everyone seems. I think they walk more here or eat less or something. The Russians, on the whole, are a very handsome People.
Later that evening I went for a walk downtown. I left early but wanted to be sure I had time to recover if I got lost.
I did kind of take the long way around going to where I was headed because I was unsure but cut through on the smaller streets coming back and it was much shorter. I found the right trolley-bus home and everything. Also found that Cokes are about 10 Rubles cheaper off the beaten track.
All in all it was a full and wonderful day. It threatened rain all day but never more than a few drops fell. My feet are sore so I ambled along at a much slower rate than the average Muscovite. They walk at a very brisk rate. Perhaps that's why they seem so fit.
Touring one of the churches in the Kremlin I found one small scene where the body of the crucified Christ was being carried, presumably to his tomb.... in a sled. Thus does each culture imprint itself upon the gospel.
5/14
Woke early and got Rose on the phone again. Found a postcard of Lenin in the lobby, you aren't allowed to take pictures but you can buy a postcard. That seems a bit of a contradiction but I have to admit that a the vision of a group Bermuda shorts clad tourists snapping pics while checking the map for the next "attraction" doesn't seem very respectful.
I was going to pass the time reading in the lobby but wound up watching people instead. An obvious business meeting Russians and Americans, tourists gathering in their groups for the day, a large burly man in an expensive suite with his slinky "niece" on his arm... the free show passes the time quickly.
Met Natalia at 1200 and took a cab to the station where I checked my bags in the storage room as we went out to see another nearby church. This one is important to the city as it was allowed to remain open during the Soviet years as the center of the Church in Russia.
The government never shut down the Church entirely but rather allowed folks a choice. You could be religious or you could join the Party but not both. Since everything from higher education to career path was influenced by Party membership, remaining in the Church could be a real sacrifice.
The church itself was absolutely amazing in it's gold and silver work, icons and relics. Though I was tempted I did not view the relics as I've seen the remains of saints before and folks were praying all around these. I did not want to seem disrespectful to these obviously devoted people.
Natalia gave me the name of the Church in Russian but I do not remember it.
Took the trolley-bus back into town and Natalia helped me shop for the trip. The supermarkets are modern and well stocked and I was soon well supplied with salami, bread, water, coffee, cheese, etc etc but checking my watch we discovered that I was supposed to be on the platform by now. Yikes! But I made the train with 15 minutes to spare.
Natalia went above and beyond in showing me around, even if my hotel transfers were "on the cheap". She more than made up for that with a cheerful personal attention and tours of back streets and daily Russian interactions that I might have missed otherwise. She spent hours more than the official tour times called for and was constantly checking to see what more I wanted to see. She’s a wonderful guide, in my book.
She got me to the right car and cabin, said a quick goodbye and the train is on it's way. I only have one compartment mate in my four person second-class coupe, which is a break. His name is Igor and he even speaks a difficult, stammering English.
I took advantage of a short absence of my traveling companion to change into a traveling clothes, a custom here. I switch to sweatpants, a loose shirt and thongs and am ready for my trip.
On his return, trying to be friendly (I hope) Igor plants a dried fish in front of me as the train pulls out of the station. It's a whole fish, a type of perch about six inches long and looks like something that's been on the beach in the sun. He tells me that once I try it I'll be hooked for life!
Then he left to take a smoke in the small smoking compartment at the end of the carriage and here I'm left with this smelly fish in front of me and not a clue how to proceed. I stare at it until he returns and ask for instructions and things go down hill fast.
He proceeded to cut the head off and scoop out the guts and it is immediately apparent that the thing is not dried clear through. Then carefully scrapping the remaining blood and guts from the inside he bends it back to de-bone it and begins peeling the flesh off with his teeth.
Oh well, I take it and peel back some flesh and find it's not as totally repugnant as it seemed it must be. Still, after several tries I'm only half through my little fish and will have to return the rest as diplomatically as I can as my stomach is turning at the thought of another bite.
We are passing through beautiful countryside outside the city called The Golden Ring, which is the traditional homeland of the Rus. Crossed, the Volga River and passed many Dachas. These are the "summer homes" of the city dwellers that surround all cities in Russia large and small. The homes are pretty basic for the most part with no electricity or running water in most. The guidebooks say the small gardens that are attached to each have traditionally been a hedge against famine and the dacha also provides a base to hunt berries and mushrooms, these activities being almost a religion among Russians. Indeed every small plot seems to have a new garden, many of them being worked by hand as we pass.
Igor was pretty disappointed that he had no chess partner in me but he went and found one. They are playing now. I'm pretty bushed and when I wake later the cabin is dark and the players have retreated to another cabin.
Train Photos Start Here
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5/15
Woke early, days are long this far North. Shared the family pictures I brought along with Igor as we shared breakfast, the sharing of food among traveling companions also being the thing to do. He has a nice looking family and mom and pop have a pleasant looking two-story house in the country. He had one picture of his little sister in a traditional outfit that was just beautiful.
During breakfast I was able to return his fish gracefully explaining that it was "estrania" or "foreign" to my stomach. He laughed and took it back with no apparent hard feelings.
During breakfast he opened what I took to be a jar of peanut butter but upon spreading it on my bread I found it to be some sort of meat paste. I ate it with a smile. It too was "estrania" but 1000 times better than the fish!
The country so far is forest and farms, gently rolling countryside with the occasional industrial city. One of these was Kirov, which we passed a short while ago.
The industry looks like a lot of our "rust belt" stuff, old and sad. Broken windows abound and the factory yards look abandoned, with weeds growing up through the stock; except the cranes are working so these are not abandoned at all, just shabby. The plants are often stuck right in the cities and the smoke from the stacks flows over the nearby houses. This was the case in America in the early 1900's as men walked to work so the housing could not be too far away.
The little towns often have a sad look about them too. An empty lot becomes a garbage dump and the houses are rundown and generally unpainted. Log cabins abound and the roads are often dirt. The windowsills, however are generally painted and often ornate so I suspect that the shabbiness has more to do with lack of money that not caring. I don't know if Russia is considered a third world country, but the towns often look so. One saving grace is that the huge majority seem to have electricity; though I can only see a thin slice near the tracks. Indeed it may be wrong (no maybe about it really) to judge the whole country by what I see on this trip.
Nearly every home has a garden and these are being worked and planted now, by hand. I've seen one lonely rotor tiller all day.
We pass through the town of Yar, which is the home of the Udmat people who are Finno-Ugric speakers. I did not know that there were any so far East. I don't know if the migration of the Finns came east or if a separate migration landed these people here. I'll have to research that one day. Maybe ancestors here!
Passing through thick forests of birch and pine, the housing here is mostly log cabins. The houses look familiar and then I realize that they bear a striking resemblance to the town where my wife grew up, Leadville Colorado. Large fenced yards, gardens, older houses looking a little seedy... If you take West 2nd or 3rd streets in Leadville before the smelter was torn down and stretch it for about 1000 miles you have the European section of the Trans-Siberian. One difference is that in Leadville, the run down place was the exception.
I did not read much today as I have been watching Russia go by. One scene sticks out. Passing one town there was a view of a very beautiful church and superimposed in the foreground was a very ugly factory and stack. That was today.
After seeing the wealth and glitz of Moscow you get the feeling that they money is all dammed up there and has yet to start flowing out to the countryside.
5/16
Passed into Asia last night and into Siberia this morning as I slept. There was a small fire in the dining car, next car over, last night. I would not have known except that Igor was awakened to stand by as needed as he works for the railroad. No alarm, no evacuation, just an unscheduled stop in a small station. I hope it was a very small fire!
We stop in various towns every hour or two, for from 5 to 20 minutes. The longer stops are to change engines, which has to be done regularly, apparently they have to be rested or serviced on a regular basis. At the longer stops in the smaller towns the platforms are crowded with vendors selling various foods. There are eggs and piroshkies and those awful fish with dozens on a string. I've tried a few of these delicacies but I'm pretty well supplied already. Some folks seem to live entirely off the platform food and with small loafs of bread at 10 rubles (about 30 cents) the price is right. There are also small stores where food beverages and other goodies may be had.
The train stopped early in a town called Tyumen where I saw a group of perhaps 100 - 150 boys being herded in groups of about 25 into third class cars by Army Sergeants. I don't know how to tell rank on these uniforms but a sergeant is obvious in any army. These were obviously draftees on the way to basic training. They were in civvies but most had their heads shaved already. One or two moms tagged along with each group. One mom was rubbing her hand along her son's back as if she could not touch him enough. Many things are universal and this is one. I remember similar scenes in the induction center in Oakland in the 60's.
The land we are passing now is very flat and seems to be covered in a vast swampy birch forest, relieved rarely by a farm and even more rarely by a village. Later we pass into a vast swamp with occasional patches of higher ground that support trees. The swamp is covered with tall grass so it seems there are more birds about. Saw two men in small boats. These are about 5 feet long, shaped like a wide pea pod and polled along with the men standing. They are made of aluminum, which makes them light and easily carried, perfect for a swamp.
Two kids visited Igor and me today. One had a little cowboy on a string that he delighted in placing on the bunk above and pulling the string until the cowboy "crawled" off the cliff. The boy had a Harry potter t-shirt on and I gathered from him that he has read the books and is a fan. The other boy had a toy truck that he would roll along toward me as I stood in the corridor. I would raise my foot and the car would drive under the "drawbridge". I'm not sure how long he would have continued this game but I gave up after about 10 minutes. They are both sweet kids. there are three in this car and they are very well behaved on such a long trip.
We are now passing an area of huge cultivated fields. These are not like ours but rather are plowed among the stands of trees without any straight lines or fences. This, I suspect would be effective against wind erosion. Looking through the trees it looks like the fields go on for miles.
The kid next door came over for a game of cards (that I did not recognize) with Igor followed by a game of Battleship played the same as ours. Dad poked his head in long enough to warn Igor that the kid cheats by placing his "ships" in unauthorized patterns, zigzags and such. The boy's manner, voice and appearance remind me of my grandson Austin.. right down to the Harry Potter t-shirt.
Made a stop where there were many more Asian vendors with a few European Russians in the mix. It seems the further east we go the more Asians are seen, especially in the smaller towns.
More swamps though some have been drained for planting. The land is absolutely flat so there's no place for the snowmelt to go, I guess. The guidebook says that this birch covered swamp that stretches for hundreds of miles without a landmark and ate many an early trapper and explorer.
We were entertained this afternoon by Roma, Vanya and Vladi who are the three children in the car. Roma and Vanya are brothers and are returning with their parents from visiting their grandparents in Kiev in the Ukraine, the Ukraine being another country now. These polite young men delight in practicing their English on me and they're pretty good.
I traded pics again with this family and got to see their vacation pics. For the boys a big event was visiting the McDonald's in Kiev and they had several pictures of the restaurant. These kids are sweet and bright and completely charming.
Little Vladi lives on the train. I'm not sure but I think one of the provodnitsas (car attendants) has her kid and spouse and little Vladi living in her cabin.
The time passes easily. Roma "saw a hare"(using the correct tense) this afternoon, which is one more wild animal than I've seen (or would see) in Siberia.
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5/17
Woke early. Had a good talk with Igor about business and work. His work with the train company nets him about $300 a month and like Natalia he has a side job repairing computers. Computers are his main interest and he is very enthusiastic about that part of his life. He was very pessimistic about the business climate in Russia. He sees no hope in a rise in "official" wages as he expects all the money to stay in Moscow. . He said most of Russia considers Moscow another country with no intention of sharing it's wealth with the rest of the nation.
I told him that it seemed that a country with such an intelligent and well educated workforce and abundant natural resources must eventually begin to prosper under capitalism. He was NOT convinced. I got the feeling that he does not think that the general population is up to it with only a small percentage of the population having a real business sense or drive.
We are past the swampy Taiga (forest) now with the countryside becoming more hilly and dry. There are stands of pine among the birch.
Young Vanya entertained us this morning with a Spiderman toy on a string. An action figure and a piece of thread can entertain these kids for hours. They seem to have very active imaginations and know how to use them. This morning he is sporting a Popeye shirt, except Popeye is called "Buck Roo" here for some reason.
The crossing gates are serious affairs on this railroad. As well as the usual "arm" which is a half-hearted short little thing, there are two steel plates that rise about two feet up out of the ground facing the oncoming traffic. If you tried to beat the train here and were going fast enough, YOU might hit the train but your car would not! And I think that is the idea.
The train is now meandering through forest-covered hills, with very pretty little hillside farms in the occasional clearing. Meandering is the word of choice because the speed varies from slow to moderate with occasional sprints but sometimes stopping completely as another train passes on the parallel track. I assume that this is due to track conditions, it probably being deemed unsafe to let trains pass each other at full speed. There are regular flag shacks and the flagging is still done by hand here as near as I can see.
In many towns the old brick water towers still remain from the steam train days. The brickwork on these is often elaborate and very beautiful and a joy to see. Seems too that the further east we go the more Hammer and Sickle and Red Stars we see. The statues of Lenin remain in many a town square out here too. The "new revolution" is not complete it seems.
Spent most of the afternoon in a long and tedious conversation with Alexander. The conversation was interesting but painfully slow because much of it was conducted one word at a time out of the dictionary during those times when Igor would take a break from translating.
Alexander is a young officer on his way to duty on the Russian-Chinese border. He has a wife and young child so he is not thrilled with this very remote, tense and potentially dangerous work.
We exchanged views on a number of subjects like family, work and life in general. He was very patient with the long and spotty communication but then again, so was I. Though much comprehension was "iffy" one thing was for sure because Igor translated it directly. Alexander is not very optimistic about Russia's financial future, at least for the average Joe (or Ivan if you will). That's three for three; I think I'm spotting a trend here.
When we were talking about travel he asked about trains in America. I told him that there was no real equivalent for a four-berth cabin and that rail travel was expensive and seldom used, most people preferring plane or automobile for travel. He shook his head sadly and said that the train was a place where Russians meet new friends. He had me there, we can all use a new friend.
We are back to rolling farmland. Alexander pointed out that there was a lot of it but that yields are poor due to poor soil and a lousy climate and that the best growing lands are in European Russia.
We crossed the Yenisie River that rises in Mongolia and flows into the Arctic Ocean. This area is heavily industrialized and the city of Krasnoyarsk on the banks of this river is nearly a million people in the middle of nowhere. They ship by barge through the Arctic Ocean and it seems strange, in the middle of Siberia and the continent of Asia to see seagoing barges and shipyards.
5/18
Did not sleep too well because the train kept hitting sections of bad track that would jerk the car violently and make a sound like the wheels were about to fly off. The Russians seemed to take this in stride as though it was not an uncommon thing.
We reached Irkutsk today, the first stopover on my rail journey. I got a chance to say goodbye to Igor and Alexander and Vanya, but Roma was still asleep when I left the train. Coming into Irkutsk I was struck by how the Russians seem to have a different sense of civic neatness than we do, at least in the poorer parts of town. Trash and clutter in public places can be extreme by our standards. I'm guessing that it al looks better under a layer of snow which is, of course how most of the year is spent.
Was met at the station by my local guide Natalie and a driver. Natalie is a local English teacher and I suspect in her early to mid 20s and possessed of a very cheerful disposition.
Bikal Area Photos Start Here
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Our first stop was the Wooden Architectural Museum. This is the remains of a Cossack fort and settlement from the early 1700s that have been preserved and restored. There were artifacts dating back to 1600 Cossack expeditions including axes, spears, chain mail and helmets. This stuff looked like Viking gear, possibly a result of the early Viking influence in Russian culture.
She showed me the Sauna and I was shocked that she pronounced it exactly as a Finn would down to the accent on the first of the three syllables Sa'-ow-na. The Sauna seems to be common all across the north, and indeed the Russians seem to act like they invented it, which would certainly be news to the Finns!!!
She showed me a hope chest that was part of the exhibit and was surprised to hear that this was also an American custom still practiced today in some families.
The homesteads were built by the Cossacks and each house was built like a small fort due to occasional raids by the Buryats and another nearby forest dwelling tribe.
Also saw some typical Buryat houses and a Shaman's house, which includes a birch branch rising from the hearth, giving the impression of an open hearth outside at the base of a tree.
Talked some with Natalie and she is the most optimistic Russian that I've met thus far. She feels that things are improving and will continue to do so if the country has the right leadership. Her upbeat attitude was refreshing.
Stopped at the local Natural History Museum which given the nature of Lake Bikal could not help but be fascinating. 2200 of the 3500 species of life found in the region are found nowhere else on earth. It's like an independent eco-system. This a huge lake hundreds of miles long and nearly a mile deep in spots. 20% of the world's fresh water is in this lake. Good stuff.
Talking more with my guide I find her roots go deep in eastern Siberia. Her great grandfather was a gold miner in the Eastern Territory near the Bering Straight. Her folks moved to central Siberia in 1967 for the warmer climate!!!!
On the lake riding a boat she rhapsodizes over Bikal and the wonderful city of Irkusk. She is obviously deeply in love with her home. We had a most enjoyable afternoon touring the southern Bikal area though there is a mist obscuring it's fabled beauty.
Checked into my hotel at Listvyanka and find that it is a brand new log structure and borders on luxury. It’s very nice, like sleeping in a very fancy log cabin. Went for a walk in the evening and noticed a few details of life here. One is that this community has a neighborhood well, complete with wooden winch and bucket, some Russian hauling is still done by horse cart, and Russians seem to avoid eye contact with strangers. Maybe this last is a holdover from Soviet times.
Had a fine pork chop dinner in the hotel for a small price and it is nice to have a proper meal after several days eating out of bags on the train.
Tried to find a way to email Rose but there is either no email here or I didn't make myself clear, or both.
Saw the most beautiful woodpecker on my walk tonight. It had a crest of feathers on it's head that it flashes like a cockatiel might with a sort of a bow of it's head. Also many sorts of sparrows and a small tern like bird about the size of a plover. There are magpies and two sorts of crow or raven. The black, like ours but also a brown backed variety. Also gulls and some ducks I didn't recognize.
The leaves are just beginning to sprout here in mid-May and there is still patches of snow in the hollows. Our ride out on the lake today was cold.
5/19
Took a short walk before breakfast, as the restaurant did not open until 0900.
Passed the prettiest little local church with a pastel pink and yellow painted onion dome. The Russians have the prettiest churches I think, it's one of the things they doe really well!
My ride also showed up at 0900, a half hour earlier than called for. I did not rush my breakfast, which was a pleasant meal in pleasant surroundings.
Driving into Irkutsk we stopped at another hotel, kind of a shabby run down affair to pick up a young American to transport him back to the city. Talking to him I find that this hotel also houses the local scientific team doing research on Lake Bikal. They all spoke excellent English and provided him an evening of lively discussion and so now I'm VERY jealous of his run down hotel! Oh well.
This young man is winding up an around the world trip that he started in January. He was caught in China during the outbreak of the SARS epidemic, which he said led to some strange experiences like being the only passenger in his car on a train traveling out of Beijing.
We got into the city, dropped off the kid and picked up Eugene, who is to be my guide for today. He is a pleasant younger man, blond and blue eyed and has excellent English. Our driver is Alexander, a bit older and quiet but he has a wonderful smile that starts in the eyes and spreads out from there.
Buriatia Photos Start Here
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We are driving out to Urst Orda, which is the name of the Buryat Autonomous Region. We passed into a wide flat valley, which Eugene says is the sort of terrain preferred to these relatives of the Mongolian people to the South. These people farm but herding is their favored living. We passed a couple of herds being minded by horsemen.
Entering town we saw a Young Pioneer ceremony being held at the town war memorial. This was the Communist Party youth organization in the Soviet days but Eugene says it's now more comparable to Scouting. Today is the anniversary of the organization and the beginning of Summer Camp season, what a treat to get this glimpse into small town life.
The organization still has some of the old forms, if not the old ideology and the little guys and gals are marching like little Russian soldiers and saluting and making speeches. The marching was a not quite impressive display of Russian military ceremonial marching.. this is difficult to describe, except maybe to say it makes the Germans look like slackers. The kids gave it their solemn best though.
After observing this for a bit we proceeded across the street where the Buryats greeted us for my Shamanistic ceremony "demonstration." In this instance I was not given the opportunity to be a casual observer but rather enveloped by the ceremony with a good-natured firmness. First we did a ritual cleansing of the feet in the smoke of a small fire before proceeding into the ceremonial area. We then proceeded into the enclosure and were welcomed by a double line of smiling, singing women in traditional garb making graceful gestures of welcome as we passed through them.
We were given ceremonial bowls of milk in welcome with more beautiful singing and several ritual offerings of the milk that I was guided through.
Then I was garbed in traditional dress and was guided through a long ritual of blessing from the Shaman, which was obviously a real and sincere ceremony as I heard my name and home mentioned several times in the Shaman's chanting in Buryat.
After this I was sat down and Eugene was drafted to participate in a demonstration of wrestling with a Buryat youth of about his age, wrestling being a favorite activity of these people. Eugene won his match, in which there are no apparent rules and the first to touch the ground at three points is the loser. He then was required to do a ceremonial dance of victory.
Then I was led through two circle dances with more of the lovely singing. The music isounds like a blend of American Indian and Oriental and indeed these circle dances would seem natural at any western American Indian pow-wow. The Siberian-American Indian connection becomes obvious here and though the migration occurred thousands of years ago, the cultures have many similarities. All in all it was a most beautiful and awe inspiring demonstration of Buryat culture.
Talking to Shaman afterwards I learn that Shamanism was discouraged during Soviet times but that it survived it's repression fairly intact. After the revolution many of the old Shamans were killed outright and that these days the Shamans do not have the power that the strongest in the old days did. There were some in the old days who lived in all three realms of the Shamanistic spiritual world, the Sky, the Earth and the Underworld, but none of these today. He felt that the culture and the Shamans were growing stronger and that one day these legendary Shamans will exist again.
We then went into a local museum for the "Soviet version" of Buryat culture as Eugene called it. The museum was very well done with an orderly progression and attractive exhibits ranging from the Stone age through today. I was a bit surprised to find such a sophisticated and attractive museum essentially in the middle of nowhere. I'm no expert on museums mind you but as I'm a bit of a museum junkie and I've seen a few.
During the museum tour the Buryat guide, a middle-aged woman, neatly and tastefully dressed, made the statement that the Russians and Buryats and other minorities in the area all lived together in harmony. Hmmmm.... I asked her if this was also true in the bar on Saturday night. She gave me a look and said that the only thing that caused fights was too much booze. I followed with a casual comment that in American the Cowboys and Indians sometimes still have trouble getting along.... all of this being translated by Eugene. She looked thoughtful and made come comment in Russian where I heard the word "Irkutsk" a couple of times. Eugene answered her in Russian and there followed a short but intense exchange back and forth several times. This stopped suddenly and the tour proceeded, none of that being translated. I got the impression that there are occasionally problems, especially in the city but I'll never know for sure.
The we sat down to a typical Buryat meal, all most excellent. There were noodles, a sort of a meat dumpling and a special flour and cream dish that is a staple of the Buryat diet. There was also Vodka served and though I drank none they were required by custom to pour it. When the cream and flour dish came they had to top off my already full shot glass so that we could offer the traditional blessing of this sacred dish by flicking drops of vodka in three directions in a sort of benediction.
Coming back into town, Eugene, Alexander and I talked politics for a bit. Came to find that Alexander is about my age and served in the service at about the same time I did. We all agreed that people could get along OK if the Governments would get out of the way. It was a warm and friendly ride home and Alexander refused a tip, preferring a handshake.
Waked around town for a bit and had the unique experience crossing a wide street during rush hour. There is a double crosswalk sort of street marking where the pedestrians apparently have the right of way, though right of way is defined a bit differently here. The cross walk was perhaps 100m wide and the cars proceeded through at full speed, about 40-45 mph, but aimed their cars so as to miss the pedestrians. The difference is that outside the crosswalk the pedestrians must maneuver to miss the cars. It was eerie, you just keep moving and cars whiz by in front and in back of you. My guess is that if you stopped moving you'd mess up the whole system.
I did get to email Rose from the Hotel and I was grateful for that.
About 8:00 PM the phone in my room rang and I was offered an additional tour. A man's voice asked: "Hello, do you want a Russian beautiful girl?" When I said no he apologized for bothering me and hung up. Now THIS is a full service hotel! I'm curious though how he ID'd this room. Hmmm.
5/20
Had Breakfast this AM with a Russian computer specialist in town troubleshooting a system. Chalk one up for the pessimists BUT he says that under Putin things have gotten a little better. So he feels that with the right government the economy might do well.
He too felt that the economy mainly centers in Moscow & St. Petersburg and told a couple of jokes... "Russia has opened an embassy in Moscow" and another that "on Russian Independence Day the government celebrates it's independence from the people." I told him that the second joke would work in America too.
Met Natalie at 10 AM and began a tour of Irkutsk in a light drizzle. At the memorial to The Great Patriotic War (WWII) there was a formation of teens about 16 years old, in uniform and marching a very smart slow-motion goose step. I asked Natalie and she said these were Young Defenders of the Nation, another youth group. These kids will be stationed at the memorial all day, six days a week. The uniforms were green and the girls had great white poofy ribbons holding two pony tails or braids (a popular traditional hairstyle for young girls.) Today they had ponchos for the rain but apparently they do this year round, even in the dead of the Siberian winter. Natalie used to be one of these kids and says that membership is an honor extended only to top students who pass a competitive test in history and display excellent citizenship.
Saw more churches, including one that has the graves of several Decemberists, a group of nobles who tried to depose the Czar in 1825 or so and were sent to Siberia, literally to the Salt Mines, if not executed outright. These nobles were no doubt inspired by the American and French revolutions but were crushed. Those who survived were pardoned 25 years later but by then they were few.
Also there were the graves of some of their wives who renounced their titles and joined thier husbands in Siberia, living in poverty in Irkutsk for the privilege of visiting their husbands once or twice a month.
One interesting grave in the churchyard was covered by a stone weighing a couple of tons. This grave was of a very greedy and cruel merchant. the local governor put the stone on the grave when "Scrooge" died to make sure he NEVER came back.
Saw a couple of buildings not so far apart that were the headquarters of the Red and White armies during the revolution who fought many fierce battles for supremacy of this area. The US Army and Marines also operated in the area in support of the White army until it became clear that the Reds were winning. I fist heard of this action from a Marine veteran. He said his outfit was sent from the Philippines to Siberia in their summer uniforms in the dead of winter. He told me that they lost more troops to pneumonia and bad canned meat than they did to the Red Army.
By the time the tour was done and we got back to the hotel it was raining hard. I tried to find the telephone exchange to try to call Rose but got lost in the rain and soon gave it up. Killed five hours in the lobby watching it rain.
Used the hotels public toilet and here's a hint for Russian travelers. ALWAYS keep a wad of TP in your pocket because Russian public toilets are generally a hole that you squat over and luxuries like TP are NOT generally provided. Even if it is you will not recognize it as typical Russian TP is of about the texture of the roughest brown paper towel you can remember. Luckily I was warned and pack not only the necessary but also moist germicidal towelettes, something you want to use after visiting a public toilet here.
The doormen are a shady pair. They offered to change money at a buck or so commission above the going rate. I took it because I'm a little short of cash and the hotel's exchange booth was closed. I suspect it may have been them that made the call for the "extra tour" last night.
Had supper in the hotel restaurant. There I had the interesting experience of sitting in a Chinese restaurant in Russia listening to "Unchained Melody" played country style on a steel guitar. Some folks take drugs to have an experience like that!
Was escorted to the train by Evgenia who is the official contact for this city though I've not met her until now. Spent the time waiting holding a very basic conversation in Spanish with her. She studied Spanish in the University but gets to use it very seldom. Not many Spanish-speaking tourists in Siberia.
This is a local train and the second-class compartment is filled on this overnight trip. Now that I've done it I'm glad that the first leg of my trip was not like this as four people is a lot... well, too many for a space this size. Any movement at all requires that somebody move out of the way and a general shuffling of bodies.
My cellmates were a Russian Doctor who specializes in addiction treatment, a railroad inspector and another fellow who said half a dozen words the whole time. The quiet one's contribution was mainly Russian translations of words I just could not get across. He apparently knew more English than the other two but was just not very sociable.
The doctor happened to be in the process of beginning his English studies so I think he enjoyed the practice. He is a competitive archer and something of a Russian champion. He was on his way to a meet in fact. He's also a hunter and hunts duck, deer and moose locally. He says that gun ownership for hunting is not a big deal in Russia these days.
The inspector apparently had something to do with communications as he was able to point out fiber optic and copper cable that follows the tracks and used Cisco Routers in the course of his work but language gaps kept the discussion very general.
Unfortunately the talk went late and I slept fitfully after that in anticipation of the 0500 wakeup call for Ulan Ude.
The really good news is that when Svetlana, my guide for Ulan Ude met me we went straight to the hotel where she got me checked in, promising to return at 11 AM for a city tour.
Caught a nap, ate some breakfast sent off some laundry and got to send an email.... Thank You Svetlana!
Ulan Ude Photos Start Here
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5/21
Got my business done except for figuring out how to phone home. I bought a phone card at the advice of the desk clerk but the instructions were in Russian and Svetlana said the denomination was too small to use, though the desk clerk seemed to think it would work just fine. But then again the clerk said it was simple to use, just call the number on the card and follow the directions. I called the number and got automated instructions… in Russian. Oh well it was only 20 rubles.
Saw a small museum of Buddhist art and artifacts. The Buryats West of Lake Bikal are Shamanistic while those East of the Lake are mostly Tibetan Buddhist. Svetlana is from the west and Shamanistic. Neither religion fared well under the Soviets. All the Buddhist temples were closed, apparently not even allowed the occasional token church that was allowed to the Orthodox Church.
After a short break we headed off to see the local Dat Sun or temple. The temple is about 15 minutes out of town and Svetlanas sister Serena came along. Serena. Serena makes her living as an architect in Ulan Ude. Our driver is a maniac, which is the way it goes here. Every drive is a race with no goal other than to cut off or pass all other cars.
Pedestrians are pretty well protected in cross walks (they still hurry) but they are fair game if they jaywalk, which everyone does constantly. Horns blasting the cars barrel at the jaywalking pedestrian at full speed and the he runs or jumps as best he can.
At the Dat Sun we walk around the compound clockwise, that direction being sacred, as the path of the sun. No one would think of approaching the temple from a counter clockwise direction. However to reach the temple in this direction you pass completely around the temple grounds, spinning prayer wheels as you go… a small coin is donated for each wheel spun.
The temple itself is magnificent outside and in though photos are only allowed outside. The inside was much like a cathedral with soaring spaces, the smell of incense and many saints painted along the walls and row upon row of Buddha statues in the front. The saints did look different than they might in a cathedral though… as did the deity.
Leaving the temple complex we passed by a nearby hill sacred to the Shamans. Judging from the behavior of my two companions this closeness is more than geographic. The girls spun wheels and lit incense and poured holy water like they meant it… I guess they religions are not incompatible.
On the way home we stopped at a Buryat restaurant for a traditional diner. I could get used to this stuff. The big thing tonight was a chance to try fermented mares milk, which drink they prize. It was rather like buttermilk but with a bit more bite. I’ve heard of this stuff for a long time, glad I got to finally try some.. not bad.
There were some Buryat police at the next table. They were pretty much in their cups but very pleasant and friendly. Serena and Svetlana seemed ill at ease but it’s natural for a hostess to want a guest to see the best of her home ground. Sometimes such encounters can get out of hand. It was a good meal.
Then I’m back to the hotel. I was considering a local concert but I’m pretty bushed so I’ll stay in and read I think.
Got another call offering an "extra tour" tonight.
5/22
Tried to get the "Atmore" automatic shower heater to work this morning with no luck. I suspect they turn off the boiler in the summer as each shower has an electric heater and no hot water comes from the taps.
The instructions were pretty precise: "Turn on the cold water slowly. If it is too hot, increase the cold water." Well, being a good tech I followed the directions as written... nothing but cold water. Soooo... I figure it's broken and called the front desk, who sent a girl who turned on the cold water full bore, which stream is needed apparently, to turn the thing on as lights came on and hot water flowed. I got a long stream of Russian and "The Look" from the lady. I fear I did not increase American prestige in this case.
Further instructions posted on the wall: "If you want a towel to be exchanged, put it on the border of the bath. If you hang it on a towel - horse? It will be left for further use. Thus we could reduce the amount of sewage and unload waste water treatment facilities. We are grateful for your appreciation." This is as written, including the question mark.
Met an American couple at breakfast this AM. They are here in Russia for three months on business. He is a business consultant and here teaching the locals some basic business courses. I was so happy to see him, let me tell you. He's exactly what they need here.
They were from Estes Park, Colorado, have lived in San Francisco and she used to work for Southern Cal Edison so we had LOTS to talk about... nice couple.
This hotel Geser is very much a western style hotel and very nice. They were the Official State hotel in the Soviet era and apparently sent somebody off to study our systems... very nice. There's a gym, business center, pool laundry service, a mini bar and a soft bed wider than two feet, what a treat!
In the lobby while waiting for Svetlana there was a large group of Middle Easterners. The American guy I talked to at breakfast has met them and says they are Iranian engineers evaluating bombers their government may buy from a local aircraft factory here. Hmmm... It was strange sitting next to arms buyers from a possible future enemy. The guy from Colorado says they're very nice fellas, I guess folks tend to be nice one on one.
Waited for the train with Svetlana and she talked about her stay a few years ago in Mississippi. She said that she had stayed with a teacher who taught in a special high school for black students. I told her that segregated schools were illegal but that if a neighborhood was mostly black it might seem that the school was "special". I don't think she bought that.
I then asked her point blank if there was sometimes ill feeling between the Buryats and the European Russians. She allowed that there sometimes is. Her feeling was that in large cities in general and Moscow in particular ethnic minorities were not "treated with respect." She said too that there was little government support for the Buryats to develop their culture but that things had improved in the past few years. I told her we had similar problems in America too.
I showed her my family pictures and she said I was lucky to have such a family. Our parting was warm and friendly.
While we were waiting an announcement came over the loudspeakers that she translated as saying to avoid talking to or associating with Chinese people on the train due to the SARS epidemic in China.
In the coach i find that I have a first class compartment to myself. Plush. There are two bunks, fancy seat covers; I think it's called Damask, and a little tablecloth on the table. Also it costs 50 rubles for the provodnista to set up instead of 30 as in second class.
I will have to seek out companions or talk to myself I guess, could be a long three days!
There was a full military detachment with band to see me off! Gosh I didn't know I'd made such an impression... or maybe it's for that general in the next compartment...
We are passing through a long river valley now ringed by pine-covered mountains. Looks like a good trout stream, but a little muddy from spring runoff.
Went to the dining car for lunch and that was a bit of an ordeal. Luckily my phrase book has a food section. Had a lunch of salad, soup, bread, "bitoski" (meatloaf) and tea for about $7, which is more than I'm used to paying. The soup was "egg drop" soup, which means they dropped a couple of hard-boiled eggs in it. All was good and the lady was patient enough.
Getting back to the cabin I find that unlike second class, all the doors are shut and no visiting going on. Very different... I get out my book to pass the time.
Miles and miles of nothing but miles and miles as my brother used to say. Passing through beautiful forest valleys but houses are few and villages fewer.
Forest fires are a problem in this area in May, as the rains do not start until July. Between snowmelt in April-May and the rains in July or so, all is tinder dry. We have passed four forest fires in the past five hours ranging from a few acres to hundreds and the air is thick with smoke.
Supper and the dining car is still pretty much empty, I expect the prices keep it so as they rival the price I paid for the "fancy" restaurant in Ulan Ude. Not much chance for socializing... back to my book.
We passed a huge antenna complex that was in plain sight of the tracks. One of these antennas was on the far side of the valley and at least a mile long. These pretty much have to be extreme low frequency antennas like we use to communicate with submerged subs. I'm surprised they'd have them in plain sight but in these days of satellite surveillance I don't guess it matters much where you put them.
5/23
Slept well last nigh and woke to a gray day. We are now the furthest north the railway goes in Siberia as it skirts around the border with China. This area holds the world record for temperature range with -87 in the winter to +113 F in the winter (-60 to +45C).
Not too much around here but trees. Even my Trans-Siberian guidebook that seems to try to describe every shack can't come up with anything for 100-mile stretches.
I have my door shut this morning. The cabins are heated but the hallway is not and it's cold out there. Many patches of snow and even some ice on the rivers we cross. Seems only the top 6" of soil thaws here in the summer, there being permafrost below that.
Breakfast of ham and eggs, the ham chopped up and mixed with the eggs, perhaps in an attempt to disguise the fact that it is Spam.
Met a couple of Germans during a stop. They are part of a group of four back several cars back. We are pretty much on the same trip except they did not stop at Ulan Ude.
Looking at my map I see we have crossed the Onon River on whose banks was born the mighty Mongol leader Genghis Khan. -90 in the winter and +115 in the summer... no wonder he was so mean!!!!
Have passed out of Siberia proper and into the Far Eastern Territories. This area too, was conquered by the Cossacks in the 1600's. They treated the tribes here so badly that they appealed to the Manchu Empire in the south for help. The Manchu sent an army that ousted the Russians until the mid 1800s. The Russians got it back through gradual immigration, followed by a treaty when it became clear that the area was Russian by default.
Thinking on these Cossacks I cannot help but have some admiration for them even though they were ugly in their treatment of the native populations. Armed primarily with medieval armor, swords, pikes and axes they conquered a continent, enduring some of the most hostile conditions imaginable. In technology they were nearly evenly matched with the people they met, primitive guns and a cold-blooded ruthlessness being their only advantage. Then their willingness to stay and settle these areas bringing their families in to endure these brutal conditions until settlements grew and thrived, made them perfectly adapted to fulfill to the task they were asked to perform. Some warriors these Cossacks, the stuff of legends.... and some amazing women to follow their men into the wilderness.
Passed a peat fire today. I'd heard of such things but never seen one. It’s strange to see smoke rising from what looks like a bog.
Passed a prison about midday. That it was a prison was clear from the barbed wire and guard towers. The interesting thing was that there was a sawmill in the middle of it. Apparently these prisoners pay their keep.
Eating in the dining car means passing between cars, which is something of an adventure on a Russian train. The two joining plates are raised slightly, open to the track below on either side and flanged in such a way that it seems a slip made while the train is making a turn would put your leg in a position to be snipped off. Perhaps this is a illusion but that's how it seems. Add to this that the plates are in constant motion and those on one car actually slippery for some unknown reason and the passage between cars raises the heartbeat of a green rider like me.
Ate a light supper, not much exercise, not much appetite. I got the feeling the waitress thinks I ordered light because I'm short of cash or something because she brought me extra bread for my soup and near as I can see nothing is supposed to be free in that car. Or maybe she was just being nice.
5/24
As I slept we have entered an area that is warmer it seems, though this may be a relative term. The trees are taller here and there are some oaks mixed in with the beech and pine.
My first cup of coffee is lukewarm as no one here is awake though it is 0830 local time and has been light for hours. When I got up at 11:00 pm last night everyone was milling around. The general impression is that Russians stay up late and sleep late.
Went through a couple of long tunnels and was plunged into absolute blackness as the "running lights" are off. Not sure if this is an oversight or just the way things are. In any case you STOP whatever doing because you can see nothing for the duration
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I now share a time zone with Tokyo and will soon pass into one shared with Sydney.
Stopped in the town of Birobidzhan but the provodnitsa would not let me off the train as it was a five minute stop and she didn't want to take the chance of losing me I guess. I wanted to take a picture of the station name written in Hebrew, as this is the capitol of the Jewish Autonomous Region founded in the 1920s. (Note that we are about as far from Moscow as you can get and still be in Russia.) The founding was followed by a wave of repression about 10 year later when most of the synagogues were closed. These days most of the remaining population has emigrated to Israel.
The train is heading south now with the Chinese border only a few kilometers away. Those hills I see in the distance are in Communist China.
Spring is in full bloom here with high green grass and a lush undergrowth in the forest. The change in climate is obvious as we near the ocean.
Have to shut down early, as the wakeup call will be about 0430 or about an hour before we arrive.
Unfortunately we arrive on a Sunday and I fear that many museums will be closed. Since my train arrives early and the hotel does not do check-ins until noon, my tour is scheduled to begin upon my arrival to fill in that time. I have reservations about these reservations.
Had my last meal in the dining car and I think I've won them with pure charm from a state of sullen frustration at my ordering skills to a sort of good humored resigned exasperation.
5/25
Vladevostok Photos Start Here
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Slept fairly well and having hung it up at about 2000 last night I awoke feeling fairly refreshed at 0400. This gave me plenty of time to get cleaned up and packed before our 0520 arrival.
What I hadn't counted on was it being pitch black out at 0530. I thought that this close to solstice and this far north I'd have daylight. Well a quick glance at the globe will show you that the swing south puts Vladivostok on about the same latitude as Portland, Oregon. No was to judge that then though.
Well the plans were made and Olga was there to greet me so off we go on out early tour of the city. It was pretty nuts really because it was also "froggy" as Olga so charmingly put it. So.... here she is giving her spiel on the sights as we gazed into a black fog bank, always followed by a sincere apology then off to the next stop. I'll give her this, she was game and kept on like a trooper.
I got a whole new level of Russian driving this morning as our driver passed another vehicle on the crest of a hill in the dark, in a pea soup fog. Olga acted like this was the most normal thing in the world, which perhaps it is, here. I left indentations in my armrest I think. I will never drive in Russia, I truly do not think I'd know what to do and I've driven Mexico City and Milan at rush hour!
We had a nice breakfast of Piroskis and blinies the ski had lightened some by the time we were done.
Vladivostok is a fairly new city having been built on land claimed by Russia in the mid 1800's. The land had been inhabited by Chinese tribes but was such a backwater that China did not contest it when the Russians moved in.
The local tribes had once been part of a more advanced society but when Genghis Khan swept through this society was destroyed and the tribes regressed to a primitive state and stayed there.
The symbol of the city is the Amur Tiger, the biggest cat on earth with males reaching 850 pounds. Loss of habitat through over logging and poaching by Chinese hunters seeking tiger parts for traditional medicines has pushed the beast to the brink of extinction. There are only a few hundred left in the wild. Their range used to extend to Lake Bikal.
Got some pictures of some Russian ships and got my picture taken with some Naval Academy Cadets so I've closed that circle. It would have been nice to meet a cold war naval vet but my time is too short to be picky.
My guide Olga is a graduate in economics and was born in the '70s so she's all about the new Russia. Her dream is to one day open her own tour agency. Her mood is upbeat but she feels that much depends on what government is in power. One of her complaints is that Russia is exporting her natural resources to Japan and Korea when she should be exporting finished products made in Russia from those raw materials.
All in all an informative and enjoyable morning though I was pretty beat after I finally got checked in to my hotel. I would not recommend this sort of arrangement for anyone in the future and will tell the company as much.
The hotel's
