Twentieth Century

Introduction

The twentieth century, in its first three quarters, has undoubtedly been a period of great change, in fashion as in every other fields. Many of the developments associated with twentieth century dress, however, had their roots in the second-half of the nineteenth century. In France, after the 2950s this line began to alter, gradually easing out and straightening up so that by 1907-8 there are perceptible signs of a vertical rather than an S-bend silhouette. This was brought about by raising the waistline above its natural level, narrowing the skirt and introducing a new, longer and straighter-fitting corset around 1908.

In 1915 and 1916, women's fashion made what might be described as a detour from the line so clearly set by 1910. the pillar-like silhouette, was abandoned for a more traditionally feminine, even romantic, shape with a wide, bell-shaped skirt which was often flounced

From 1920 to 1922, The position of the waistline dropped to the level of the hips, eliminating any shaping over the natural female contours. The most familiar image of the 1920s-- the knee-length, waist-less dress worn with a helmet-like cloche hat pulled down to the eyebrows-- belongs, in fact, to the later part of the period. As the skirt shorten, the silhouette began to be pared down so that by 1927 women appeared to be increasing streamline. In 1929, the Paris collection showed a gentler line hinting at the natural contours of the bust, waist and hips.

In the 1940s, the French showed a general desire for luxury and femininity and there were attempts to introduce longer, fuller skirts and a gentler silhouette. Two versions of the fashionable silhouette prevailed: one with the fuller skirt, and the other with a long, straight, slim skirt; but both styles of dress had a fitted bodice, natural shoulder-line and slender waist. The general effect was well-tailored and well-groomed, very neat, pretty and feminine, in a studied way.  

The second half of the decade saw a marked departure from the natural figure line with the most original designs. The shape of the women's dresses became very artificial, the waistline was dropped or raised beyond its natural level, the torso was enlarged in ballooning shapes, collars stood away from the neck, and sleeves were shortened.

Here are some detailed descriptions of the different types of dress and accessories:

Undergarments

No radical changes from those of the 90's. Frilly, decorative petticoats and drawers continued to be popular, many had ruffles around the bottom and were edged with lace. Eyelet insertion with the ivory, pink , or blue ribbon threaded through was a popular trim for all kinds of underclothing.

Dresses

Silhouette--S-shaped curve. The major features of women's dresses included a highboned collar, a style that had been continuously in use since the late 1800s; a full, pounced skirt that was flat in front and emphasized a rounded hipline in the back. The skirt after hugging the hips flared out to a trumpet shape at the bottom. Dresses were generally one piece, with bodices and skirts sewn together at the waistline; some princess-line, one piece dresses as well.

Bodices were often quite complicated in construction, with full-bosomed cut almost universal. Most closed with hooks and eyes and hooks and bars.

Skirts had shapes achieved by goring, with skirts close-fitted to the knee in front, then full and flared tot the hem. Some had back pleats. Lengths varied: some ended several inches off the ground, others had trains. Hobble skirts were quite popular and it had an exceptionally narrow circumference around the ankles. Women can hardly take a full step in the most extreme of these skirts. Some were so tight that a silt had to be made at the bottom to enable women to walk.

Footwear

Stockings were generally of dark and neutral cotton lisle for daytime or silk for formal wear. Some decorated with colored clocks or lace insertion.

Shoes had pointed toes, long slender lines, heels about 2-2.5 inches high curved in the so-called "Louis" style.

Boots were less fashionable than shoes, but when worn were high and buttoned and laced to closed.

Accessories

It included large, flat muffs; decorative lace or silk parsols and trimmed with fringe or lace: serviceable oiled silk umbrellas; suede or leather daytime handbags or beaded evening bags; and long folding fabric fans or ostrich fans.

Belts were especially triangular-shaped, "Swiss" belts revived from the 1860s. Ruffles, boas, ribbons or carvats worn around the necks.

 Hair and Head dress

The hair were less bouffant; waved softly around the face and pulled into a soft roll at the back or towards the top of the head.

Hats were large, emphasizing height, many in the toque style or with turned-up brims. Face veils were popular. Hats were decorated with artificial flowers, feathers, and ribbons. In keeping with the Directoire revival, tricorne hats were worn.

Costumes For Men

Dresses

Over this period jacket styles varied in these ways: both single and double breasted suits were made, the popularity of each varying from year to year. In the early years of the century, jackets and coats were cut long, buttoned high, had small lapels--a full cut through the torso gave men an almost barrel-chested appearance. During the teens, jackets and coats gradually shortened.

Except for summer when lighter weight fannel and linen fabrics were worn, suits were generally dark in color and dark blue serge was the most popular fabric.

Suit jacket styles includeed:

Frock coats were worn only by the dignitaries on the formal occassions or by the elderly men.

Morning coats were still seen for formal occassions during the day. Before the war, morning coats were worn as suits with the matching coats and trousers or with the contrasting waistcoat and striped trousers. After the war, morning coats were worn only among the upper class or political leaders as formal dress for weddings, diplomatic receptions, or inaugurations. For formal occassions, it required a top hat; for less formal events, one might wear a derby or homburg. Lounge suits or sack suits became the standard suit for men during the twentieth century. Sack coats were worn for all occasions and even appeared for leisure wear as "sports jackets."

Evening dress were jackets either with matching trousers and a white waistcoat or dinner jackets (tuxedos, sack cut) with dark waistcoats and matching trousers were worn. Tail coats were double-breasted, but worn unbuttoned, and had rolled lapels or notched collars and lapels. Dinner jackets were generally single breasted. Evening jackets usually had lapels faced in silk.

Footwear

Stockings were usually neutral colors, with a few stripes and multi-colored styles. Stockings had ribbed tops and were held up with elastic garters.

Shoes, in the early part of the century, were long, pointed toes; shoes laced or buttoned shut, and many were cut high, abive the ankle. For dress, black patent leather slippers were popular. After 1910, oxords (low, laced shoes) increased in use.

Hair and Head Dress

Hair were generally short. The war helped to diminish the popalarity of beards and moustaches, as they were more difficult to keep clean in combat zones and interfered with gas masks.

Hats did not alter  much from the latter part of the 19th century, and included top hats, now not only for formal occassions; soft felt hats with names as homburg or triby; derbies; and caps for leisure.

Jewelry

 It was mostly limited to tiepins, shirt studs, rings, and cuff links. Wristwatches gained popularity as a result of wartime use and because of the increased use of automobiles.

Accessories

Gloves, hankerchiefs and scarves were quite popular. Walking sticks were quite popular until automobiles came into widespread use.