Famous People

Above is the famous historical figure of the 18th century from France, Napoleon Bonaparte. His contribution to France was not only confined to those of military and civil achievement, but of course including those of dresscode.

The Representative of France

Official portraits of the king, following the particularly felicitous example set by Rigaud in his portrait of Louis XIV, the Sun King, show the sovereign in majesty, surrounded by the insignia of his royal status- crown,sceptre, the hand of justice - and wearing clothes from a different age - the white clothes of the Knights of the Holy Spirit, fossilised by tradition in the fashion of the 16th century, when the order was created. The white suit is covered by the great royal cloak of blue with gold fleurs-de-lis (like the French coat of arms) and lined with ermine whose cut dated back to the Middle Ages. The chain of the order of which the king was the grand master can be seen glinting on the ermine draped over his left shoulder. The clothes signify that the person wearing them is the embodiment of tFrance in all aspects, the avowed defender of his country, around whom the Order of the Holy Spirit revolved. Rigaud painted the young Louis XV in the same dress in 1716, when he was only 6 years old and had not yet not been crowned. The legitimacy and authority of the young king, sometimes called into question during his regency, were thus proclaimed in advance.

Court Ceremonial

There was another, quite different type of costume rubbing shoulders with these medieval costumes at court. This was worn by courtiers whose function was largely ceremonial - heralds-at-arms, Swiss guards, the master and grand master of ceremonies, ushers of the king's bedchamber. The list recalls the enormously increased importance given to court ceremonial by Henri III, who in 1585 created the position of grand master of ceremonies. The trunk-hose and short cloak were retained from that period; the heralds-at-arms, however, replaced the latter with a purple tabard embroidered with gold fleurs-de-lis.

Finally, the prince carrying the royal train, the four lords guardian of the Holy Ampulla and the captain of the Scots guards were clothed in an extravagant version fashion of the day: a velvet suit trimmed with gold, plus a short cape with a collar, lined with cloth of gold. This uniform was also worn later at the coronation of Napoleon I.

Official Ceremonies

A wedding was another occasion at which the king and the royal princes had to wear traditional costume, including, this time, the celebrated trunk hose of the 16th century, always made of some extravagant fabric. The all-black worn by Louis XIV for his marriage to Marie-Therese of Spain was abandoned at weddings in the 18th century in favour of gold and silver. When Louis XV married Marie Leczinska in the Chateau de Fontainebleau he wore a suit of gold brocade, embroidered in gold and with diamond buttons. The short cape that he chose instead of a cloak was made of gold Spanish lace. For his 1st marriage,  in 1745, his son wore cloth of gold with a large pattern of foliage on it, including the jacket, trunk hose and cloak; the trimmings were in gold lace, enriched with the most valuable pearls from the crown. In 1770, the future King Louis XVI also wore a suit of cloth of gold which cost 12,322 lives.

Young royal brides wore clothes that resembled current court dress more than traditional costume, since the bride's gown had enormous paniers. Marie Leczinska, who became reigning queen on her marriage, had the right to wear the royal skirt (jupe) and cloak of purple velvet edged with ermine and sprigged with gold fleurs-de-lis. Her skirt was studded with jewels, her whalebone bodice fastened with diamond clasps. The cloak measured nine ells. Marie-Therese in 1745 and Marie-Antoinette in 1770 were marrying heirs apparent only and therefore had to make do with cloth of silver - albeit with a long train and trimmed with gold filigree.

In fact, the grand ceremonial costumes were not used very frequently at court. The king never wore his coronation robes a second time, even at solemn sittings of parliament, which were the only occasions when he sat on his throne. At such formal occasions he wore a 'purple suit and cloak, trimmed with broad bands of embroidery, and wore a plumed hat on his head'.

Court duties did not necessitate the wearing of uniform except on coronation day, although the grand master of ceremonies did wear a cloak of the same colour as his suit and carried a small baton, covered in black velvet, with an ivory knob.