Porcupine Rock
To reach Porcupine Rock, go to the free skier parking at Keystone, but don't turn in. As if you were leaving the free skiing lot and going back towards Dillon, turn right (S) instead of N (which would take you back to US6 westbound), towards Montezuma. This road is paved and maintained to some degree through all months, as far as Montezuma. From the turn, go .8 miles to Independence Road (green street sign on the right). The turnout for Porcupine parking is immediately across from Independence Road, an access road for heavy machinery building more and more condos up into the valley. Pull off of the access road so you don't impede the construction traffic. Porcupine is the huge rock face north of the road. The trail apparently winds up to the base of the rock towards the NE, through talus fields; about a ten minute hike to the base. The pictures here are from the area of the parking area.
1. Snowblind 5.8s FA S. Astaldi & M. Gruber.
2. Soul Chicken 5.11c FA M. Gruber (Not pictured clearly in these photos)
3. Eatin' Alive 5.8? FA unknown Notes from R. Trathrigg: 'Just plain nuts! Runout, dirty.'
4. Loose Goose 5.9 FA unknown
5. Weed Eater 5.8? FA unknown
Haus Rock - no data yet.
Hummingbird Boulders - no data yet.
Pyramid Rock and Alpenglow Wall are clearly pictured in this photo; they are very obvious from the Montezuma Road, but until I hike up to them for inspection I will not post route information on them other than that R. Trathrigg's notes tell us that Alpenglow is a 'Killer Wall.'
Zuma Rocks
From the turn onto Montezuma Road at the Keystone free skier parking exit, go 1.6 miles. About .05-.1 miles before the parking turnout on the left side you'll pass a squiggly road ahead sign (yellow). The turnout is almost blind just around a left corner with a roadside rock blocking views until you get on top of it. The crags are about 150m up and left of (northwest) of the parking turnout, a five minute walk tops. A trail is obvious, even in winter. If you can stand the cold rock, the climbs have full day sun and should be climbable year-round.
1. Deceiving 5.10b FA M. Gruber & T. Finnigan
2. Unknown 5.12 TR
3. Perpetual Motion 5.10d R TR FA unknown Difficult start, very pumpy right-facing fingertips liebacking on second half. Notes from R. Trathrigg: '**** Pumper'
4. Unknown 5.8 TR Bad pendulum. Fun but spooky climbing with ground-fall potential unless spotted.
5. Secret Significance 5.8+ FA unknown Great slab climbing past two pins. Anchor to trees 30' behind cliff-top (long slings). Notes from R. Trathrigg: '*** Jug high right'
6. Corners 101 5.6 FA unknown Nice mellow slab and left-facing dihedral. Set gear anchors immediately on top of climb. 5.9 left start variation starts at base of Secret Significance and traverses/climbs undercling to the lower Corners 101 slab at 5.9.
a. 5.9 variation right
b. 5.9 variation left
7. Unknown 5.9?
8. Unknown 5.6 (dirty)
Morning Glory Wall
Park as for Zuma Rocks or directly across the road above the creek. A good ford is 25m upstream (take tevas and poles), or a semi-submerged slimy log may act as a bridge 75m downstream (most of the way back west to the curve 20mph sign). A dirt road also parallels the power lines on the south side, but access is unclear at this point, as is road condition. Cross from parking and wander about 200m west along the power line break or road. Cairns at the side of the road lead uphill to the crag. The crag appears much smaller once you get there - if you are at the bottom of a rocky yellow dirt- and debris- tailings pile in the mouth of a small avalanche zone (small aspens abound amidst fallen decaying trees) the crag is immediately above and to your right.
1. Gone Fishin' 5.8 FA J. Owens 8 bolts to anchors
2. Heckman's Hand Jive 5.8 FA P. Heckman, E. Heckman, M. Gruber 6 bolts to anchors, undercling moves over a bulge to friction and a moderate crack above.
3. Shitkicker 5.10b FA M. Gruber & K. Kelton Hard friction moves on the first two bolts lead to broken ledges up higher, 6 bolts to anchors.
Falling Rock/Small Wall - no data yet. (A-Basin road)
Rock Pile Tower - no data yet. (A-Basin road, reportedly closed for raptor nesting.)
Basin Rock
Do not use the leaning tree as an anchor. Do not use the leaning tree as an anchor. Do not use the leaning tree as an anchor. Directly across from the Pali lift at Arapahoe Basin, these are terrific moderates. There are currently no anchors above Tree Top, making it very difficult to protect routes 2-4a. The trail is immediately across from the west entrance to A-Basin's Beach; head west 10m until past a talus field, then turn right (north) and uphill. Stay on the trail as it zigzags 10 minutes to the crag. Watch for loose rocks on climbs, on top, and on the west-side descent gully.
1. Shady Lady 5.9 FA S. Astaldi and J. Astaldi
2. Tree Top 5.8 FA J. Astaldi and S. Astaldi. One bolt, no anchors on top.
2a. 5.9 R right variation FA S. Astaldi. Turn right before the bolt and proceed on arete 2/3 of the way to the top, then wander left on face to Tree Top.
3. Cracked Bat 5.10b FA S. Astaldi. Climb the prominent overhanging arete. One pin. No anchors on top.
4. Trustifarian 5.10 R FA M. Gruber and S. Stull. Face climb right of the arete past one pin and pull the small roof.
4a. 5.10b variation left. FA S. Stull. Traverse left under the prow's roof.
4b.* 5.7 variation right FA M. Gruber. Ascend the first open book immediately right of Trustafarian. Some loose blocks.
5.** Jeanette's Jam 5.7 FA S. Astaldi and J. Astaldi. Climb second open book just right of arete from 4b. Great hand crack last 1/3 on open book's left face.
5b. They Say It's Your Birthday variation 5.6 Stay on the arete just right of the open book.
6. Bird Nest 5.10 TR FA J. Astaldi
7. Outer Limits 5.10d TR FA S. Astaldi
8. Ram's Horn 5.9+ FA S. Astaldi and K. Schwartz
9. J-Bird 5.7 FA J. Astaldi and K. Schwartz
10. Unknown 5.9 TR (dirty and loose)
11. Unknown 5.9+ TR FA K. Kelton
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