Coarsefishing2

Coarse fishing 2

Baits

Loose feeding or throwing softballs of ground bait in often causes fish to rise off the bottom to take the bait as falls through the water. The answer is to fish on the drop. A rig with no shot gives the best natural presentation but bite indication suffers due to the fact that the fish has to move a long distance before any bite indication is seen. It is better to compromise by stringing out small shot down the line. The amount of shot and size is dependent on how the fish are taking bait on the day, trial and error is the key. As a guide if the fish are feeding close to the surface fish a couple of feet deep and place three or four No 8 or 10 and a 12 or 13 a few inches from the hook. If the fish are taking the bait deeper in the water bunch some of your strung out shot together and have a couple of shot between this and the hook. It is a good idea when fishing on the drop to cast without any bait on the hook and count how long the float takes to settle. This way you can tell when a fish has taken the baited hook before all the shot has dropped.

When fishing on the bottom it is important to get the bait down as quickly as possible to the fish. The idea is to place just enough shot at around two thirds down the line to get the bait down and stop the float from drifting. If you use too much shot on the line bait presentation will suffer; again trial and error is the key. The dropper shot is the most important shot on the rig, this is the shot that more often than not indicates when you have a bite and determine the positives of the bite. The size of the dropper is dependent on the size of float you are using; for instance a No 13 shot will register on a fine tip float but not a thick tip. For a thick tipped float you may need a No 8 or No 6 The positioning of the dropper is determined how the fish are feeding on the day. The closer the shot is to the hook the more positive the bite will be but bait presentation suffers as the fish may feel the weight of the shot and drop the bait. You may have to move the dropper several times during the session so as to keep in contact with the fish.

WAGGLER FISHING ON THE BOTTOM

WAGGLER FISHING ON THE DROP

Shotting Patterns are only examples and can be adjusted to suit how the fish are feeding. Experiment and see how you get on.

no 10

no 8

2no 4s

3no 6s

no 8

no 10

3no 6s

Shotting Patterns are only examples and can be adjusted to suit how the fish are feeding. Experiment and see how you get on.

Float locking shot

Finding the depth

If you intened to fish on, or very close to the bottom, the most accurate and positive way to achieve this is with the aid of a plummet.

A:- Estimate the depth and fix float in position. Put on plummet ,then cast to the area you intened to fish.

B:- Float set too deep, move towards hook and re-cast.

C:- Float set too shallow, move away from hook and re-cast.

D:- Float set just right.

One type of plummet used to find the depth of water.

Float fishing is skilful and exciting. Few sporting thrills compare to the heart-stopping moment your float quivers with life as a fish bites your baited hook.

The right rod to use

A long rod between 11ft (3.35m) to 13ft (4m) is advisable for float fishing. (but you can use longer I use a Browning aggressor power match 18>20ft - 25/30gr.) The longer the rod; A:- The easier you can fish well back from the waterside - staying hidden from the fish; B:- The further you can cast light lines and floats; C:- The better your control over the "natural" presentation of float fished bait; D:- The quicker you can tighten and reel-in line when your float indicates you've hooked a fish.

Feeding area

Cast beyond feeding area

Feeding area

Lower rod tip beneath surface and retrieve line.

Whenever a waggler is being used on stillwater, the line must always be submerged between rod tip and the float. If on a river the line can be treated with 'mucilin' or silicone spray so it floats.

Sinking the line

A very enjoyable method for catching bottom feeding fish such as carp, tench, bream and crucians. Attach a waggler to the main line using a float rubber. Place a shot large enough to pull the float under 1 to 4 inches from the hook. Slide the float up or down the line until just the tip is showing. When a fish takes the bait it will either swim off dragging the float under or lift the shot of the lake bed causing the float to lift up higher in the water.

THE LIFT METHOD - Short Range

The depth is plumbed and the single shot rests on the bottom. Any bite will lift the shot and the float will automatically "lift" to indicate the bite. Even the most delicate of bites will register. Use any waggler float, although a light quill that can be cocked with a single shot gives the most dramatic and exciting lift. Ideal for shy biting fish such as carp.

THE LIFT METHOD - Long Range

Again the depth is plumbed and the bottom shot rests on the bed. Even if you need to fish at long range, provided the tackle is properly balanced, even the most delicate of bites will still register. One of the most exciting forms of this method is fishing at night for with a nightlight. As the float lifts a dark band appears in the water.

Line to rod

Use an insert waggler or a Quill float

Large shot 1-4in from hook.

Line to rod

Large shot 1-4in from hook.

Bulk shot

Small shot

Locking shot

Float rubber

Use a driftbeater float

A basic rig for evenly paced water, presenting bait near the bottom and showing the action of trotting a float downstream using an Avon float. The bait is lightly shotted, depending on the strength of the current, and drifts down naturally to the fish.
Check the depth of the swim and see that the float moves easily without any unnatural drag or disturbance.

TROTTING using a wire-stemmed avon float and a stick float

Bulk shot 12in (300mm) from hook

Use a wrie-stemmed avon float

Grease line to rod

Trotting simply means running a float down the current, taking the bait to the fish. Good swims for trotting are runs under high banks and overhanging foliage, where you can work the float along the junction . Swims under steep vertical banks containing undercuts, in times of high water, are great for trotting. In these conditions all species pack into these undercuts. Fish the float right along the edge of the bank, holding it back hard at short intervals, so that the bait swings upwards and inwards to search under the undercut.
Although it is possible to use a fixed-spool reel, a much more efficient presentation is achieved with a smooth running centrepin or, in winds, a closed-face reel. To keep as close a contact with the float as possible, the longest rod you can practically handle is best, but it needs to be light and responsive. For general trotting work, a 14 ft (4.27 m) rod is ideal.
Most trotting is carried out with Avon or Stick floats of various sizes, depending on the depth and speed of flow, the bait, the presentation required and species sought. For the beginner, the wire-stemmed Avon float is suitable.

Stick float fishing is only used on flowing water, specifically at short range. It is a suitable method for all but the very fastest of flows, the diagram right showing the basics of the usual set-up. More of the shot can be positioned closer to the hook when fishing in a fast flowing stretch of river. To avoid tangles on casting it is good pratice to 'check' the line by slowing the rate gradually to a stop with a finger as it peels of the reel just before the float hits the water, thus stringing the rig out in a straight line. As a stick float is attached top and bottom by float rubbers it is possible to slow the float or even stop it by holding back on feeding off line. This gives a greater control over the bait than that achieved by waggler fishing and also keeps the line tight between rod and float ready for the strike. Line mending may also be necessary to achieve this tight line and avoid bows.

Float attached top and bottom with rubbers

Main shot strung
out equally

Single no.10 dropper shot 6 to 10in from hook

Flow

Current

Mending the line

Mending the line, is a term used to stop the line bowing when trotting. If when the line starts to bow as in 'fig A' if ignored the pressure of the current will build up within the bow and pull the float and bait across the stream in a most unnatural manner. In
'Fig B' with finger trapping line on reel spool, bale arm open, move rod sharply from point A to point B.
As in 'fig C' you will see line has straightened.

As with the short range lift method, the long range has a slightly different set up. You will use a driftbeater float as in the 'fig' on the right. Locking shot is used on the float and small shot and bulk shot down the line, then one large shot 1-4in from hook.

wire-stemmed avon float

stick float

It is simply fishing with a lead weight near the hook. The idea is that when a fish feels the weight, it shall bolt away and hook itself in the process. You may also use the weight to help you cast out to the appropriate distance.
The styles and techniques that have evolved vary greatly. Some rigs are designed to hook fish by themselves. Other rigs rely on special devices on or near the rod to tell you when to strike a fish. This diversity allows anglers to mix and match styles. It lets them specialize in one technique that suits them and the fish they wish to catch, or enables them to change mid session and target entirely new fish.

'Ledgering' What is ledgering ?

Ledgering involves many different styles

The quiver tip is a specialised type of fishing rod. It has a highly sensitive tip that bends around when a fish pulls the line. The quiver tip allows you to use small weights used only for casting. The sensitivity of the tip shows you every line movement. The quiver tip is a diverse indicator. It increases your chances at catching all sizes of fish. Most rods come with their own range of tips which vary in sensitivity. This allows you to use the appropriate tip for any situation.
When fishing with a quiver tip it is important to follow these steps.
1- Cast out to the area you wish to fish.
2- Position your rod at right angles to where you cast.
3- Ease back the line until the tip is partially bent.
The bent tip allows you to see when all fish pick up your bait. If a fish takes your bait normally, then the tip will bend towards the fish. If the fish takes the bait but swims towards you, then the tip will unbend and the line will go slack. This technique gives you a chance at striking fish you would normally have missed.
It is up to the fisherman themselves to decide when they should strike a fish. This is something that you will pick up with experience.

The quiver tip rod

Quivertip rig for roach / bream.

Fig A :-
A :- 3 to 5 lb reel line.
B :- Attach lighter hook length to reel line using a four-turn 'water knot'.
C :- 6 to 10inch leger link.
D :- For hook size 14 to 18 use 1.5 to 2 lb test line. For 12 to 8 use 3 to 4 lb test line.
E :- Open end feeder.

FIG A

FIG B

Fig B Terminal options :-
Left to right.
> 2 or 3 swan shot link.
> Arlesey bomb.
> Cage feeder.

Self locking ledger floats

This comparatively new breed of floats has revolutionized float fishing in deep water for species like roach, rudd, tench and bream inhabiting gravel pits and reservoirs. Anglers are now enjoying catching hauls of fish on the float from large, wild open waters where once upon a time feeder fishing using a quivertip would have seemed the only option open. However you do need to be constantly aware of that enormous right angle of line which exists between rod tip and bait. Over distances in deep water beyond 10 yards for instance, trying to pull the hook from a large piece of paste into a fish is almost impossible using a normal strike, unless the fish is belting off in the opposite direction. When using small hooks and just two or three maggots, much less force is required to set the hook. With large hooks and baits sit well back from the rod and wind in fast for several seconds before wacking the rod back into a really firm, sweeping strike and continuing to wind untill the tip buckles over. With carp and tench, exaggerated striking is not needed due to the aggressive way in which they motor off with the bait. Float ledgering is also the best way of beating that eternal problem experienced when ledgering for bream, namely line bites. Because the line angles vertically upwards as opposed to a horizontal ledgered line, even when bream are packed tightly into a swim and in a feeding frenzy, only the occasional liner is experienced.

The 'locslide' float

Until end rig touches bottom line runs through automatic locking device

The 'polaris' self locking float

The tubular 'frixon' device through which reel line passes, has holes for 3 to 6 lb line and 8 to 20 lb lines

The set up

The float is threaded on to reel line before making up end rig.

Float rests on 'BB' shot 3 foot above hook prior to casting.

Four turn 'water knot'

Fixed paternoster end rig with 16-inch hook length and 10-inch feeder link.

Swingtipping

What is a Swingtip - An extra tip that attaches to the top of the rod and hangs down. When the fish picks up the bait, the tip rises. This is a very sensitive form of ledgering, much used by bream anglers, but learning to cast is an art in itself.

Conceived by Jack Clayton of Boston to identify the shy bites of Fenland bream, the swingtip is, in theory, the most sensitive ledgering bite indicator ever invented. It also works well with other species like roach,rudd and tench. Because the swingtip screws into the tip-ring and hangs down in front of the rod, resistance to biting fish is minimal compared to quivertips, ledger bobbins or monkey climbers. It is important to remember that swingtips are only effective in still and very slow-moving water. In fact to counteract even the sligtest current, you need to use a loaded swingtip to which weight has been added. for most stillwater situations, except strong winds a lightweight swingtip is ideal. Swingtips are great indicators to use when bream-fishing on hard-fished waters. The best rig (as it is for all bream ledging) is the simple fixed paternoster. For this join a 3-5ft lighter hook link to the 3-4lb reel line 2ft above the bomb or feeder, which should be tied direct to the line using a four-turn water knot (see fig 1). After casting, put the rod in the rests quickly and tighten up to the bomb, watching that tip like a hawk. It will slowly drop backwards after each turn of the reel handle until the line is reasonably tight from bomb to rod. A bite on the drop is easily registered by the tip failing to ease back when it should, because a bream has sucked in the bait and stopped the process. Buoyant baits such as casters, or casters and maggot cocktail,are excellent for on- the- drop fishing. To engineer as slow a fall as possible, use a long, light hook length about 1.5lb test and a small, fine-wire hook. Once the bait has settled on the bottom and a fish moves directly away from the rod with it, the tip will respond in a positive upwards movement. often straightening out horizontal with the top joint. On other occasions, the tip will rise or suddenly fall no more than 1/4in; treat these as positive bite indications, as though float-fishing. When bites are coming thick and fast, do not bother with rod-rests. Get used to holding the rod comfortably beneath your forearm with the rod tip pointing directly at the bait (see fig 1a). Bites become much easier to see if you allow the rod-tip to angle downwards so that the swingtip is just an inch or so above the surface. Then strike upwards in one smooth, sweeping action. When bites are not happening with regularity, or it's to cold to hold the rod, set it on two rests at an angle parallel to the bank and use a target-board positioned immediately behind the tip. Bites show up very well, and to strike you simply ease the rod from the rests in one long, sweeping sideways pull all the way backwards, pulling the line through the water as you would a waggler on a sunk line, not lifting it up against the surface tension, which reduces the effectiveness of the strike (see fig 1b).

When sitting with rod parallel to the bank, strike sideways and low

Use a target board when fishing parallel to the bank

When fishing with rod and tip pointing straight out, strike upwards

possible drop-back position of swingtip

3-4lb reel line
to swingtip

If bream sucks in bait on the drop the swingtip stays out instead of dropping back

four-turn water knot

1.5lb hook line 3-5ft long. joined to reel line with four-turn water knot

12in link to feeder (open end) or ledger bomb on continuation of reel line

FIG 1

FIG 1a

FIG 1c

FIG 1b

Low sideways strike

Target board

Rod rest

The fixed paternoster rig

Reel line

four-turn water knot

The Fixed Paternoster is the type of rig you should use when fishing still waters. The length of line between

bomb or feeder and water knot should be around 6"- 9". If you are fishing the Swing Tip it should be as long as the tip. The length of line between hook and water knot is variable. The ideal length to start off with is about 5ft. It can then be adjusted to suit the mood of the fish e.g. You reel in and your bait has been sucked and you didn't see a bite, you should then shorten it a little and keep doing this until you see a bite indication. Another scenario is you keep missing bites, you have put bigger hooks on but this hasn't made any difference in this case you shorten the length of line until you start making contact with the fish.

A simple but effective rig for both still and running water. The feeder is connected to the main line on a loop so that a fish taking the bait does not feel the resistance of the weight, giving sensative bite detection. Form a small loop and then a bigger one, about 6 inches, with the double overhand loop knot. Ensure the feeder, bomb or swivel is in place before tying the big loop. Attach the hooklength with a loop to loop knot.

The loop paternoster rig

Reel line

loop to loop knot

double overhand loop knots

The technique known as link-ledgering has become extremely popular in recent years. For this, a 4in length of nylon, doubled, with shots attached and the line passing through the loop is the simplest method to use. In link-ledgering as with all styles, a stop must be attached to the line to prevent the lead running down to the hook. The distance between lead and hook depends largely upon the bait but anything from 1-6ft may be used, except when using breadcrust when 4-6in is about right. Regarding the stop, commercially made plastic ledger stops are fine although some anglers prefer a split shot. With these, however, care must be taken that the shot does not slip on the strike and is not pinched on so hard that it weakens the line. In still waters, after the lead has sunk, the line is tightened without moving the lead or bait and the rod placed in two rod rests with about 4in of the rod top submerged (except when a rod-tip bite indicator is being used): this cuts down wind, drift, or both. Bites are indicated by one of the range of indicators available. In river fishing it is sometimes advisable to hold the rod and be prepared to strike quickly. The rod can be supported on one knee and the line held between thumb and forefinger so that a bite can be felt. The tip of the rod must be sensitive. With practice, a take by a fish will be distinguished from the natural movement of the tackle with the current. The tackle can be cast into one spot and anchored there, but it usually pays to cover a larger area, particularly if the water is unfamiliar, by allowing a light rig such as a link-ledger (also known as a paternoster link) to roll across the bed. Cast down and across stream and cover a stretch with repeated arcs, moving downstream. There are various methods of detecting a fish. First, the rod tip acts as an indicator. Alternatively, greater sensitivity can be gained by the use of the swingtip or the quivertip, both of which are available in various patterns.

Pole fishing

Put quite simply Pole Fishing is using a very long rod, with no reel. The line is attached to the pole via a connector with elastic attached to it. The elastic is placed inside the pole and acts as a shock absorber. Very light line and hook length is employed to save breaking the elastic or( God Forbid) your Pole should you become snagged.

Pole Fishing is an art form, just when you think you are getting on top of fishing with a rod some one says, " Yeah but have you tried pole fishing, it's more productive in Match fishing and more fun." What ever your own opinion maybe, it is still, a great way to fish. It is not however a cheap form of fishing. To stay competitive in the Pole fishing not only do you have to have an in depth knowledge of this aspect of angling. You also need to have a good deal of cash available. With the Poles up to 15 meters in length and made of space age materials to keep the weight down they do not come cheap.
WARNING: Always be aware of your surroundings when using carbon fibre poles, making sure there are no overhead electrical wires in the vicinity.

Plastic bung to attach elastic inside pole

double overhand loop

Plastic or mono tag for removing bung to renew elastic inside pole

External 'ptfe' bushes (for thicker elastics) fit like this and are glued on over pole tip.

internal bush

'stonfo' type connector for attaching float rig

Pole rig end connectors

How to internally elasticate your top two or three pole sections

Whips are short poles, going from 2 metres up to about 6 metres in length. They usually have telescopic sections, which means that they are fished at full length and cannot be broken down when landing fish. Therefore the rig length must be just short of the length of whip being used. This is to allow for the weight of fish being swung in, because the tip will bend, adding extra length. This method of fishing is a speed method, usually directed at lots of small fish which can be swung straight into your hand. Generally, there is no elastic used and the end tackle is connected straight to the tip.

Whips

There are two basic types of pole: put-in and put-over. All this basically means is that a put-in pole has tip sections to slot inside the next section down the pole, a put-over pole is the other way round.

Pole floats are usually very much smaller, and more sensitive than other floats such as wagglers. Usually, they are made from balsa, with a very fine nylon or plastic insert. If they are shotted to as low down as possible, with just the fine bristle showing so that the tiniest bites will pull them under. They can come in a huge variety of shapes and sizes.

floats

End tackle, or rigs, are carried on ready made-up plastic winders to save time and trouble on the bank. They can be bought already made up on winders for something like 2 or 3 pounds, or you can make your own up. It is very likely that lines can drop as low as half a pound BS and hook sizes as small as size 22. Weights can also be so tiny for the angler needs very good eyesight in order to see the split through which the line is run. These weights are usually cylindrical with a long split running the full length and are called "styls".

to avoid confusion, tackle winders can be purchased in various colours so that a code may be devised by the individual, allowing him to select or replace end tackle of equal balance immediately.

What are the shotting terms 4 x 8, 4 x 10 etc. and how do they relate to grammes.
This shotting is often seen on pole floats and relates to the use of styl leads which are used throughout Europe. The conversion table below gives the conversion to grammes.

Styl                 Grammes
4 x 8                   0.08
4 x 9                   0.09
4 x 10                 0.1
4 x 12                 0.2
4 x 14                 0.3
4 x 16                 0.5
4 x 18                 0.75
4 x 20                 1.0

Selection of floats used in
pole fishing

Method feededs

These superb feeders have established themselves as the ultimate. One look at the superb design will tell experienced carp anglers all they need to know; the fins have been designed to retain bait, keeping the method ball intact. The feeder is available in two weights, both being heavy enough to create the important bolt effect and, of course? the feeder is carp-safe because it will detach itself from the line under moderate pressure.

pole tip section cut back to accept bushes

internal elastic

The most advanced method feeder ever produced. The aerodynamic shape and lead placing ensures that the feeder casts well and always lands the right way up, placing your hookbait in the correct position, every time.

What is Pole Fishing.

Carp fishing

Fox inline carp Feeders

Korum Carp Feeder

The 'Method' feeder is a fairly recent inovation. It was developed for use on heavily stocked carp waters, and is essentially a bolt-rig. That is to say that fish literally bolt and hook themselves, giving very positive bites. It is a very successful method, and because of this it has been banned from most competitions and from most waters. This feeder is basically a frame, groundbait containing hook bait samples is moulded around it, and then the hook and bait is hidden inside the resulting ball. After the cast, carp will attack the groundbait to get at the free samples and the hook bait. When they reach the hook bait, they will feel the heavy resistance of the feeder and bolt, thus setting the hook.
TIP -Keep hold of the rod at all times when using this method, it is common for rods to be pulled off the rod rests and into the water.

This is a very simple feeder. The main line is tied to the small eye at the top while the hook length is tied to the eye at the bottom. The latex shock- absorber runs through the centre of the feeder, connected at both ends to the eyes at the top and bottom of the feeder. The hook bait is hidden in the groundbait moulded around the feeder.

An elasticated frame feeder available in two sizes 15gm, and 25gm.

Elasticated Frame Feeders

For carp rigs and how to tie them.

A small selection of method feeders on the market today