searigsandbaits

Basically it is an ordinary rig but with the addition of an extra hook on the main snood. Before tying on your main hook thread your line through the eye of a second hook. Keep this in place by sliding a piece of sleeving down the line and over the hook as shown opposite. Tie on your main hook. The top hook can be carefully slid up or down the snood to suit bait size etc. This type of rig, works with worm or crab baits. There is no need to bait top hook but it's up to you. A lot of fish are taken on the top hook of this rig. Choice of hook sizes is up to you. I use 3/0 main hook 2/0 top hook. But some use 2/0 main and 2/0 top hook.

SEA RIGS AND BAITS

The pennel rig

The trace length for this Pennel rig is.
Main Trace to sinker - 1m.
Hook snood - 84cm.

The up and over rig

The Up and Over is a rig which allows you to use a long flowing trace which will sit near to the sea bed. The hook length is attached at the bottom of the trace and is looped over an upside down bait clip at the top. A bait clip positioned near the swivel allows the hook to be clipped down during the cast. The hook can be a single or a pennel type rig. On entering the water the hook length is freed from the upside down bait clip and flows out attached close to the sinker. On retrieve the rig has the same advantages as the pulley rig in that the sinker is lifted clear of the bottom if you have a fish on.

Trace length for the Up and Over.
Main Trace to sinker - 1m.
Hook snood - 1.5m.

The pulley rig

The Pulley rig shown opposite uses a pennel type hook set up but can be used with a single hook. The advantage of the pulley rig when used on snaggy bottoms is that once a fish has been hooked the weight of the fish pulls the line through the top swivel and lifts the sinker away from the bottom. With the addittion of a bait clip, the hook can be clipped down when casting. you can alter the length of the hook snood from 30cm to 60cm depending upon conditions.

Trace length for the Pulley rig.
Calm/Snag free conditions. Trace to sinker - 80cm.
Hook snood - 60cm.
Rough/Snaggy conditions
Trace to sinker - 45cm.
Hook snood - 30cm.

1Up 1Down (Clipped)

A Simple rig incorporating 2 hook snoods. 1 of the hooks is tied at the top of the trace length and the other tied at the bottom. This rig obviously doubles your chances of fish but also allows you to fish 2 different baits at slightly different depths. If fish constantly come to one hook then it would seem the bait on that hook is the one to use. If you take off the bait clips then the rig is now called a flapper rig. Various configurations of this rig are possible, ie 2 Up and 1 Down is another example either clipped or flapping, The Length of the snoods are important in that they must not be so long as to tangle with its neighbour too easily. Try crab/mussel on one hook and worm on the other.

Trace length for the 1 up 1 down is.
Main trace -1m.
Top hook snood - 35cm.
Bottom hook snood - 45cm.

Without clips it's called a flapper rig

The wishbone rig

The advantage of this rig is that it allows you to use two baits, either the same or different, to be fished close together, doubling both the scent trail and offering fish a choice of food. This is Made with a standard trace except for the wish- bone itself, which is short around 30/40cm. You can add attractor beads and sequins if you prefer, but, the more you add to the trace the more it costs? keep the beads tight up against the swivel, though I know some prefer to allow the wishbone a litle more movement. It's up to you.

Trace length for the Wishbone is.
Main trace - 1m.
Hook snood to swivel - 60cm.
Wishbone snood -30 to 40cm.

The rotten bottom rig

Two rigs I use a lot when I fish off Southend pier in Southeast England because of snags

The trace ends in an oval split ring above which is a large round bead kept tight against the spilt ring with a crimp. Attached to the bottom of the spilt ring is a short length of main line which is formed into a loop. Also a longer length of weak line is attached to the split ring. An oval split ring is also attached to the sinker. To operate - the loop of line is put through the split ring on the sinker and looped over the upside down bait clip. The weaker line is tied direct to the sinker split ring. When the sinker hits the water the loop lifts off the upside down bait clip and slides back through the sinker split ring. This leaves the sinker attached only by the weaker line which can easily be snapped off if the sinker becomes snagged.

Trace length for the Rotten Bottom.
Main trace to split ring - 60cm
Hook trace - 40cm
Loop of main line - 30cm
Weak link - 30cm

The snaggy ground rig

The length of this rig depends on the snags that will be encountered at a particular venue, ie not many snags a 1m rig, if really snaggy 25cm is long enough. Its a standard paternoster except that the bottom crimp is replaced with the telephone wire tightly coiled below the bead. You can use the tension of the telephone wire to set the hook, before the snood drops to the weight under the pressure of the fish. This rig is designed to lower the risk of the weight getting snagged on retrieval. Use a 3/0 viking with these breaking strains and, providing your mainline is up to it, the hook will straighten before the snood snaps. You will get your gear back most times because most snags tend to be hook snags. The hook can be straightened on a rock easy enough. Clip the bait down easily using as Gemini link.

The flatfish or plaice rig

The basic rig consists of a length of 30lb line tied to a swivel and ending in a lead link. The distance between the lead link and hook snood swivel is variable between 15 and 25cm. Use the shorter length in a slack tide and the longest in a strong tide. The two snoods above are also variable. However the opposite applies. Use the longest lengths for a slack tide and vice versa. The white attractor is an optional extra, but will make a difference. dabs and plaice can be taken over gravel or mussel beds, which can quite easily snag your line or sinker. The distance from the hook to the start of the beads depends on the bait. If using simply ragworm tipped with razor, squid etc; then a gap may not be needed. However if using a cocktail (which canbe a killer bait ) of rag, lug, crab tipped with razor, squid etc a gap will be needed. The number of beads is up to you. For the single hook trace use larger beads than for the two hook trace.

to go back to seafishing

The loop knot

Basic paternoster rig

reel line

loop stiffened by plastic tube

The leader is tied to a loop knot formed by taking a loop of main line, looping it around the line 4/5 times, and pushing the middle of the loop through the centre.

SEA FISHING BAITS

The sea angler has a lot of baits at his or her disposal, from the good old lugworm to the razorfish, and a lot come free if you go and look on the seashore. A good angler will never be short of the right bait for the species sought. Most of the modern sea tackle shops now offer a wide variety of commercially produced blast-frozen baits, which will be totally fresh. They will also trade in freshly dug live worms and the best of all peeler crab. Even your local fishmonger's shop might have what you are looking for.

The peeler crab

Image to enlarge

Peeler crab are regarded by most anglers as the top bait for a large variety of species.

The lugworm

Hooking lugworms
If fishing for cod and you are casting lugworm any distance it is advisable to get as many as five or six worms on the same hook. You will need to use a long shank hook variety. To hook them, simply enter the hook point into the centre of the head and thread the hook right down the length of the worm. When on the hook the worm should be worked up the long shank and over the eye. Keep doing this until you have 5/6 worms on the hook. It is usually the case that the tail of the last worm is left hanging from the hook in an enticing manner. You can also use frozen black lugworm, they stay on the hook well because of their thick, rubbery skin. One thing sea anglers will do is inject the skin with a flavour or oil before casting. This replaces the innards which are removed before the freezing process.

Hooking peeler crab
To get the best from this bait it is advisable to peel the body completely and remove the gills and legs. The legs should also be peeled. Lay the peeled crab on its back and cut the body in half long-ways, down through the centre with a knife. Take half the body and thread the point of the hook through the leg sockets, starting at one end and working up through the sockets to the other. The crab should be quite secure at this stage. To help keep the body on the hook you can impale the legs on the hook below the body. Using the legs like this will give the impression of a live crab. For added security use elastic cotton thread to bind the bait in position on the hook.

The ragworm

Hooking ragworm
Large king ragworms should be threaded up the shank of the hook by passing the point of the hook through the centre of the ragworm. The head of the worm is pushed up over the eye of the hook and up on to the line above it. The lower body is held in place on the shank of the hook, and the tail is left hanging from the bend. Fine wire hooks are best to use for ragworm. Smaller ragworms, like the harbour rag, can be hooked in bunches of 4 or 5 in the same manner untill the hook is full. Take care when using king ragworm as they have a pair of pincers located in the mouth. These pincers are thrust out retracted at random and can inflict a very painful bite.

There are four members of the ragworm family that the sea angler uses for bait, the king ragworm, the white ragworm' the harbour ragworm or maddy and the red ragworm. The two most popular types of ragworm the sea angler is likely to use are king rag and white ragworm. Harbour rags or maddies are the smallest of the ragworm.

How to prepare a flapper and strips
of mackerel bait

Whole mackerel are a good bottom fishing bait for conger eels. They can be prepared for the hook as follows and should be fished on a large hook and wire trace.

Take a sharp knife and cut the mackerel in half from the gill cover near the head to the tail end. Make sure you keep the knife flat against the backbone.

Turn the fish over and repeat the process until you have two cut wings as shown. Now remove the backbone so you have just the head of the mackerel and the side fillets.

These are the two methods of presenting a mackerel "flapper bait". Use a large hook and wire trace with both because, when fished on the bottom, a large fish such as a conger eel is expected to take the bait.

The most widely way of preparing mackerel for shore fishing is to cut it in to strips. Cut at an angle with the strips tapering downwards. This is a good bait for most fish,eg cod, whiting, dogfish etc.

Frozen mackerel can be bought from your tackle shop in packs of two or more. make sure the mackerel is straight as it will be easier to prepare.

Sandeels are a terrific all-round bait. Sandeels can be used live by hooking through the upper lip or through the base of the eye socket using a fine wire hook. There is a space here so little damage is done. Dead sandeels are hooked by sliding them mouth first on to the hook and turning so the hook comes out just behind the gills. The quality of frozen sandeels varies from bait shop to bait shop. Sandeels are best fished with a light rig with a long snood that moves around giving the impression that the sandeel is struggling in the surf. Live Sandeels cast poorly, ripping lose if any real power is applied.

The Sandeel

Hooking sandeels

The razorfish is an excellent bait and is widely used for bass,cod and flatfish.

The razorfish

Hooking razorfish
For best results, small razors can be hooked in a similar fashion to worm baits. This will involve taking the whole razor from the shell. To prise the meat out, insert a knife carefully into the hinge of the shell. Don't force the shell apart as all this will do is tear the meat inside. The main attraction as a bait is the meaty foot, which, when placed on a hook will support the rest of the body. Thread the hook down through the centre of the flesh. As most razors are around 3in (7.5cm) long it is advisable to present two on the hook. Bigger razors can be used as a single bait and are threaded on in the same manner. Razors cut into smaller bits are good for tipping lugworm baits when cod fishing. the tough texture of the skin helps keep the softer worm on the hook.

Below is a selection of terminal tackle needed to make successful rigs. Press on image to enlarge.
A - Here is a selection of trace components. B - Hooks are available in packets or as shown here in boxes. The label will tell you what size and make the hook is.
C - These pear-shaped leads are used for fishing a light rig over cleanground.
D - These weights are specifically designed for beach fishing and uptiding. The wires fitted to the side of the lead act as an anchor for the bait when the tide is running. When pressure is applied to the lead, the wires fold back, enabling the lead to break free from the bottom.

Please follow all safety rules when tying rigs. Make sure you use good quality rig clips, swivels and crimps etc. One very good make is GEMINI TACKLE. It is also not good to use 80lb line for your shockleader and only 20lb line for your traces. My own choice is 60lb line for the sinker snood and 30lb for the hook snood.

The float rig

Bead

Drilled bullet

Swivel

15lb (6.5kg trace

Size 2-4 forged hook

Stop knot

Slider float

10lb (4.5kg) Line

Float fishing is an ideal way of presenting a bait over a rock-littered bottom. Bass, wrasse and pollack respond well to this method. Also very good when targeting garfish on the local pier.

The tag ends of the knots should be trimmed to leave approximately 1/2in (12.7mm).

An easy way to make a stop knot.
1: Take a thin rubber band place over the line. 2: Then take one end and thread it through the other end.
3: pull tight and then cut of the excess.

Thread line through a 4mm length of silicone tube.

Thread line through silicone tubing again to form a loop.

Pull both ends of the line to tighten.

Knot will slide up and down under firm pressure.

Three types of sliding stop knots

Click on image to enlarge

Fixed spool

Multiplier

How to load a fishing reel

Open the bale arm and tie the line to the spool with a double slip knot.

Attach the line to the spool with a timber hitch knot.

Other knots are listed below click here for knots.

The bloodknot

Tucked Half Bloodknot

Whipping knot

Grinner Knot

The water knot

Palomer knot

The knotless knot

Leader

Main line

Shock leader

This consists of 30ft (9.15m) of stronger line connected to the main line. It's function is to obsorb the shock and stress of casting with a beachcaster. The breaking strain of the leader will depend on the lead being used, As a yardstick,if a weight of 6oz (180g) is being used,the breaking strain of the leader needs to be around 50lb(23kg). The shock leader should be attached to the main line correctly to ensure the knot does not foul on the rod rings during the cast.

To avoid injury to the thumb during the cast the knot should be tucked to one side of the reel spool.

The squid

Preparing and Hooking squid
For bigger species, such as bass and cod, a whole calamari squid mounted up on a double-hook pennell rig is the best method. The squid can be mounted in such a way that it seems alive. If using a single hook with a whole calamari, it is advisable to bind the body section to the line above the eye of the hook. This will stop it slipping down on to the shank of the hook. To prepare a squid.
1 - Spread the squid on a board and allow it to thaw.
2 - If you plan to use the squid in strips the first thing to do is to remove the head. Do this with a sharp knife.
3 - Once the head has been removed, cut open the body and remove the plastic-type backbone, the ink sac and all the innards.
4 - The cape or body can then be cut into small strips for smaller species, or the squid can be used whole.

Squid is a widely used sea fishing bait and is probably more readily available then any other bait in britain. Both the large common squid caught by commercial fishermen in the north sea and the calamari squid, which is smaller in size and imported, are available to the angler in most tackle shops or fishmongers. commercially caught squid is bigger and is cream in skin colour with yellow white flesh. Calamari is smaller, 6-7in (15-20cm) long but has a similar colouring.

Other baits
There are a number of other baits available for the sea angler to use. Every sea angler soon finds his or hers favourite baits to use.

1 - Cockies.
2 - Limpets.
3 - Mussels.
4 - Hermit crabs.
5 - Herrings.
6 - Sprats.
7 - White bait.

Then there are artificial baits to choose from.
See below -: click on image to enlarge.

Spinners

The traditional spinner used mainly for mackerel but will be taken by other species. Spinners revolve on their own axis, as they are retrieved through the water they mimic the action of a small fish.

Feathers

Feathers can be used 6 to12 at a time for catching mackerel, works will when on the pier or out boat fishing.

Spoons are rather specialist item of tackle, and tend to be used by the sea angler when fishing for flatfish. Dabs, plaice and flounder are all prime candidates for the spoon angler. Most spoons are used with the addition of a baited hook.

Three Different types of spoons

Pirks and muppets

Redgills eel

Eddystone eels

Leadheads

There are many different makes of artificial eel available, but two designs in particular have probably accounted for more captures of specimen fish than any other makes. These are the redgill and eddystone eels. Both are made from rubber and have a flexible tail, which moves when worked in the tide's flow. They come in different colours and in sizes from 3-18 in (7.5-45 cm).

Pirks are used by boat anglers for catching cod, pollack and ling when fishing over wrecks or rough ground. A pirk is basically a cylindrical metal tube of varying length. It is heavy enough to sink down to the bottom under its own weight, so no additional lead is needed on the line.

Right -: A pirk can be used to provide the weight when using muppet lures.

Many of the original leadhead twister lures are designed to fish with the hook positioned upside down. This is a good point to watch out for when buying them as this pattern will rarely snag on the bottom over rocky ground. The original twister lures with the leadhead are a must for the shore angler in search for bass and pollack. Fish them over rocky and rough ground on the high tide or just as the tide starts to drop.

Above -: A selection of leadhead lures showing the different sizes advailable

left -: Muppets are available in all sizes and colours. some makes have a glitter effect on the body. this acts as an attractor when caught in the light. But others are decorated with luminous paint, so when fished in deep, dark water, the heads will glow.

Over the past few years plugs have become the main method of attack for many bass fishermen, but they can be used for pollack, colalfish and mackerel as well. Plugs come in two different forms, sinking and floating . They are machine-made from plastic or hand made from wood and are single or as a jointed-body version. many are coloured in a wide variety of designs. Some have eyes painted on while others have sick-on bubble eyes with moving eyeball. One tip is that when you buy plugs many come fitted with inferior hooks, it is a good idea to replace them with a stronger pattern.

Different types of plugs

Different types of groundbaits

Many kinds of sea fish respond to the use of groundbait or chum. But groundbaiting methods can vary considerably from one locality to another. On rocky coastlines with deep tidal gullies, a low-tide prebaiting session can often attract a number of good fish into gully area. The type of groundbait to use depends on the type of fish you hope to attract and catch. For instance, fish makes the best groundbait for bass or conger, but crushed crab is better for wrasses. Place the groundbait in position when the tide is at its very lowest, stuffing mashed fish or crushed crab into every likely crevice between the low water and high water marks. If you get this right the rising tide will wash out a continuous stream of bait that will attract the fish to the gully. When you're bottom fishing from an anchored boat, a simple method of groundbaiting is to tie a large mesh bag full of mashed fish to the anchor rope several feet above the anchor. Make sure the bag isn't on the bottom, or it will be ripped open and emptied by crabs. This method is good for conger, cod, tope and many kinds of rock fish. If you're shore fishing for mullet, you can groundbait with a mixture called shirvy. This is very similar to rubby dubby in content, except that finely minced meat and meat fat is used as a substitute for the fish and fish blood (but not fish oil) is used to blend the meat and fat with bran. Mullet are shoaling fish which, once attracted, will remain in the area for long periods. Experienced mullet fisherman distribute their shirvy with an old serving spoon on a little-but-often basis. Being a small fish mullet will actually eat the meat and fat particles instead of just being attracted by the sent. If you throw in to much groundbait they will overeat and refuse the hookbait.

Right -: groundbait for mullet can be made from meat,meatfat, fishblood and bran, or (as shown here), from a mixture of bread and pilchard oil. As with rubby dubby, these groundbaits are usually mixed in a bucket before use.

Right -: Rubby dubby is a mixture of mashed fish, bran and fish blood or fishoil.

Rubby dubby

Shirvy

Baits

The idea of a good shore rig is to get your bait from the shore to the sea bed intact, which does not mean making fancy rigs and using the most expensive terminal tackle but to make your traces well balanced and streamlined so your trace will end up on the sea bed correctly and not in a mass of tangles which will not aid your fishing.

There are 2 rules which should be obeyed when making traces:-

1. For every ounce (28g) of lead to be cast your trace line should be 10lb (4.5kg), this will reduce the risk of a snap off helping reduce the risk of causing injury to yourself or others in your vicinity.

2. Never knot your trace to stop your snoods sliding as it can halve the breaking strain of the line, you should use either crimps (crimped gently), power gum or telephone wire. The benefit of using the later 2 will make your snoods adjustable in height up your main line. With all three if used correctly will not impair the quality of the line.

Your hook lengths need not be the same breaking strength as the main snood due to it not taking any force from the cast. The hook length is determined on the type of fish you are targeting, for the smaller species a light 6lb line, for general fishing a 20lb line will be sufficient but if you are going for a larger species like Cod or Rays then a 35lb+ is advisable.

When you have made your traces it is advisable you either keep your traces in a purpose made rig wallet or purchase some small self sealing plastic bags this will prevent tangles and keep them away from salt water until ready for use.