[MyNSR] [PictureGallery] [Tuning] [Derestriction] [Visitor Bike's] [2T'engines] [Specifications[Advice] [Links] [ContactMe] [Message Forum] [VFR400]

Here your question concerning general the issues of  financial, dealer, timing and imports (relating to bikes of course!) will be covered. Any questions or comments please Contact Me.

Every dealer differs. They offer alternating deals, better or worse prices and service. When looking to buy a new bike (the physical product will be the same in all dealers) ask what after sales services are offered or simply "why should I spend all my hard earned savings here and not next door?". Maybe you could even ring up the place and try to acquire advice or spare parts. If they offer poor advice or just don't seem arsed go elsewhere! Imagine buying a new bike under warranty and not being able to get a valuable spare part when you really need it! Ask for full data tagging on the bike and see how the dealer reacts. If they tell you to piss off or after no alternative they'll probably be penny pinching bastards who will attempt to cut costs, possibly when servicing your bike. Bear in mind that if an identical bike is cheaper in one place, the servicing or warranty extension fees may be more. One bike may not include road fund tax or a number plate. 

Most people have to finance the cost of a new bike via a loan. Most loans are around the 12% APR mark nowadays, but it is possible to get it less than this. Consider dealers special flat rate deals or those 0% APR deals in particular. It is quite likely that a bank would offer a lower APR rate than the dealers, who in fact make most money off the latter! Bear in mind that paying for the bike in one fair swoop most probably won't get you any worthwhile discounts - dealers like the money they gain off finance deals. 

When selling your bike, or, part - exchanging it for a newer one, consider selling it privately beforehand. Dealers may sometimes attempt to bully you into accepting loads less than you know it is worth. Things such as "can't really give you any more for this" or "couldn't even sell it for that price" are fairly common and should be ignored if the bike is worth more. Make sure they know you have a very expensive alarm, it is data tagged and has a new chain and sprockets on it when you get quoted a price. When I came to sell my first bike - a moped (Piaggio Typhoon) - an original price quoted by the dealer was £950. I paid £1400, had a performance exhaust fitted, low mileage and knew it was worth more. I asked the dealer for £1150 instead - and got it. Just goes to show that you don't get until you ask! The dealer was quote happy to give me under to odds for the bike. 

At the end of the season or before number plate changes dealers want to get rid of excess stock left over from the previous season. This is usually a good time to buy as you are more likely to be quoted a deal. It is possible to pick up "last season's model" at a discount price. 

Also consider that a discounted model may be a parallel import. This is a bike not imported by the manufacturer's official importer and is usually of slightly different specification - different paint job, restriction on bhp etc. Parallel imports may increase insurance premiums and are not covered in the importer's warranty. Make sure the guarantee is up to scratch. 

Also, and finally, make sure you get insurance quotes BEFORE you buy the bike. It's no use buying one of these two strokes and realising only then that quotes are coming through £850 excess! (bear in mind also that 2T engines require topping up with premium quality 2T oil every 500 miles or so). Consequently, I found www.cia- insurance.co.uk and www.choicequote.co.uk to be cheaper than others firms and have lower rates of excess payments too. However, do make sure you read the insurance policy notes, as different policies suit different people.

Press The 'h' Key For Homepage