RABBIT CARE

Not everyone should endeavor to share a home with a rabbit. The characteristics of an ideal companion for a rabbit is a person who spends several hours each day at home; enjoys quiet activities; is patient and gentle; has keen observation skills; has a sense of humor; is willing to spend time on the floor; is responsible in daily chores; and can tolerate a little mess.

Before making the commitment, one should also consider that a pet rabbit’s average lifespan is 7-12 years.

People with young children or other pets should not bring a rabbit into their home unless they are willing to understand and accommodate the needs of a rabbit. Rabbits are stressed by the frantic running and high-pitched squealing of young children. Most children want cuddly pets to play with, hold, and pet on demand; however, rabbits do not enjoy being grabbed by overeager children whose enthusiasm can seriously injure their frail skeletons. Rabbits can and will bite when they feel threatened, and an uneducated parent usually dumps the rabbit in the wild or at an animal shelter the first time the rabbit nips the child. In addition, many parents discover that a rabbit requires much more attention and care than the average young child can handle. To purchase a rabbit without understanding its unique needs is selfish and irresponsible.

If you are a parent, make sure your children do not chase your rabbit in an effort to “catch” it. Rabbits will become frightened if children (who appear to be giants from a rabbit’s perspective) pursue it mercilessly. Always supervise your young children when they handle your rabbit, as overly excited or aggressive children can grab your rabbit too tightly, crushing its bones or even killing it! Do not allow your children to restrain the rabbit by dressing it up in dolls’ clothes, as the rabbit will become nervous and afraid.

Consider whether you can handle the investment of caring for a rabbit beforehand, as it is not inexpensive. The average monthly cost for food and bedding is approximately is $20. There are one-time expenses for spaying/neutering, vaccinations, and other veterinary procedures. You will also need to purchase accessories such as a cage, litter box, pet carrier, toys, etc.

Most domesticated rabbits are happier and healthier if kept indoors. The decision of whether to keep your rabbit in a cage or free (as you would keep a dog or cat) is a personal one, but it is highly recommended to give your rabbit the free run of your home. Bunny-proof your home first, of course, by removing or covering all the electrical wires and anything else that should not be nibbled.

A rabbit can be kept outside in a sturdy hutch that affords it enough room to play, as well as plenty of time outside its hutch for exercise. However, keep in mind that an outdoor hutch should protect the rabbit from drafts, direct sunlight, and inclement weather. Bring your bunny indoors during the hot summers and cold winters.

The most important rule in caring for a companion rabbit is to allow it to be him or herself. Many first-time rabbit owners are disappointed when they discover that their rabbits do not enjoy being lifted and placed in their laps, do not come when they are called by name, or even run away and hide whenever you are near. A rabbit is not a dog or a cat, so you cannot expect it to act like one. Most rabbits will never jump into your lap and beg to be petted, learn to do tricks, etc.

Remember that rabbits are by nature animals of prey, and therefore they are instinctively fearful and timid. During your first few weeks with a new rabbit, be prepared to spend several hours each day just being with your bunny. This does not mean you should grab your bunny and force it to sit in your lap for hours on end. Rather, allow your bunny free time to explore your home and become acclimated to its new surroundings. Do not follow your bunny around while it explores. Read a book or watch television, while keeping your bunny in the corner of your eye. Get down on the floor at your bunny’s level, and allow your bunny to come up and get to know you on its own terms. It is extremely rewarding when your bunny learns to trust you and will come up by itself to give you an affectionate nudge or lick.

Rabbits are autonomous, living beings that deserve to be treated with respect and dignity. Learn what your rabbit enjoys and do not force it to tolerate what it does not enjoy. Do not force your rabbit to sit still in your lap; some rabbits enjoy being petted in your lap, others do not. Rabbits have fragile skeletal systems and should never be handled in a rough manner!

Most rabbits do not enjoy being lifted up; the motion of being suspended in the air is frightening and uncomfortable. Remember that rabbits in the wild are often snatched by hawks and other predatory birds to meet their demise. Your bunny probably feels much more secure and happy to sit or lie on the floor beside you.

Rabbits are social animals and can learn to get along very well with other animals, including dogs and cats. If you have other pets, you need to consider whether you can handle the responsibility of caring for different animals, as well as whether your existing pet’s personality is gentle enough to accommodate the needs of a rabbit. Introduce your dog or cat to a rabbit gradually. Start by bringing your dog or cat, on a leash, to the rabbit in its cage, and then move to supervised interactions between a free rabbit and a leashed dog/cat. Once the rabbit and your other pet are comfortable with one another, you can safely allow them to become friends. Any animal that shows aggression towards a rabbit should never be left unsupervised, lest your rabbit be killed.

Rabbits need to be spayed or neutered anytime after 5-6 months, to decrease their chances of certain cancers (ovarian, uterine and mammarian) in females and to prevent reduce sexual aggression (biting, lunging, growling, spraying urine) in males. Altered rabbits are calmer and less prone to destructive behavior such as chewing and digging. Spaying/neutering also decreases the overpopulation of rabbits, a serious problem that has resulted in millions of killed and abandoned pet rabbits in the United States every year.

In choosing a veterinarian, be sure to find one who has extensive experience with spaying/neutering rabbits and who will not require the rabbit to go without food and water the night before (this is an unnecessary procedure, as rabbits, unlike dogs and cats, cannot vomit during the surgery). There is a 0.1% mortality rate due to anesthesia. The risk of reproductive cancer, on the other hand, for an unspayed female rabbit is approximately 85%!

The healthy rabbit’s diet consists of fresh Timothy hay and high fiber, high-protein food pellets. Supplement your rabbit’s meals with fresh carrots and a variety of dark leafy vegetables. Avoid iceberg lettuce, beans and rhubarb.

Avoid commercial rabbit treats such as yogurt chips, honey nut/cereal sticks, and puffs, as most (despite clever advertising that they are vitamin-enriched, fortified or healthy) provide little to no nutritional value that fresh vegetables and quality pellets cannot provide. They are also high in sugar and fat, which can cause health problems in rabbits.

Rabbits can and should be litterbox trained! Place a litter box in the cage or play area where it tends to urinate (rabbits instinctively urinate in one area). If your rabbit urinates in an area outside of the box, keep moving the box until it learns to urinate inside the box. Be patient and expect a few mistakes. If your rabbit urinates or drops its feces outside the box, let out a loud "No!" or clap your hands together. Herd your bunny back to the litter box, or if it is amenable to being picked up, lift and place it into the litter box. Reinforce good behavior by giving your bunny its favorite treat. After a few days of persistence and patience, you should expect your bunny to be well on its way to using the litterbox. Rabbits are very habitual creatures and will stick with a routine.

Choose organic litters made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. Avoid litters made from soft woods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are dangerous to rabbits and may cause liver damage!

Because rabbits are so adorable, many rabbit owners are naturally tempted to show them off. However, most rabbits do not like new environments or loud noises, and definitely do not enjoy being passed around and fondled by strangers. Do not bring your rabbit to a social gathering. If you want to celebrate a birthday or holiday with your rabbit, consider staying home for a quiet evening instead.

Contrary to popular belief, house rabbits do not need time outdoors. Most rabbits are very uncomfortable and nervous if they are placed in so-called “rabbit leashes” or “rabbit harnesses” and made to walk on a sidewalk with the noise of passing cars, dogs, and children. Again, remember that your rabbit is not a dog! On the other hand, introducing your rabbit to the wild outdoors unleashed is problematic, because rabbits are extremely hard to catch and a frightened rabbit could easily run away and be killed by cars or predators. If you insist on giving your rabbit outdoor time, bring him or her into a well-enclosed space and then keep a watchful eye. If you have a fenced backyard, make sure that the fence does not contain openings that are large enough for a bunny to slip through. Bunnies enjoy crawl spaces and can be severely injured or killed by attempting to squeeze through broken wire or wooden fences.