Omouse's Strange Internet Ramblings Part 2

Omouse's Strange Internet Ramblings - The Travels

April 6 - The beginnings of the great saga of Omouse's trip through the United Kingdom.
April 7 - Isle of Skye, Scotland
April 8 - Edinburgh
April 9 - Scottish weather and Loch Ness Monsters.
April 9, part 2 - Night out and Edinburgh hostel experience
April 10 - Castles and museums
April 11 - St. Giles and train trip
April 12 - York's Towers, Castles and Dungeons
April 13 Vikings, Ghosts, Trains, York Minster and it's bells
April 14 Cardiff, capitol of Wales
April 15Bizarre Bath


Jenny's Spring Holiday

This is the saga of my life. I hope I brought enough paper with me. Bear with me, it's 5:30pm Monday, April 6 and my alarm went off precisely at 3:00am. If you'd have asked me where I thought I'd be 2 days ago, I wouldn't have had the slightest clue, but that's the way adventures go. I'm on my own, truly and absolutely. I've got a rail pass, traveller's checks, a Barclays' bank card, good at any Royal Bank of Scotland, 2 cameras, a place to stay and the all high and mighty thing called MasterCard… oh and a guide book… those are important too.

As I mentioned we had a 3:00am wakeup call. It was interesting carting all our stuff down 3 flights of stairs… the other half of our being Melissa who had to catch a 11:00a, Gatwick flight to Kansas City. The only buses to run were the 7:00 and the 4:35 so we had to take the earlier one to get to Gatwick on time. We called for a cab which was typically 10 minutes late. We knew we were in trouble as we heard the driver skidding up the hill and squeeling his way over the speed humps. He didn't help us with the luggage and made a very cryptic remark. "You're on the 4:35. Gonna have a long wait." We didn't consider 20 minutes a long wait. We did consider 1 hour and 20 minutes a long wait. Apparently there was an "incident in Dover" I don't think the three Greek guys, one of them carrying a video tape without a cover, found the situation amusing either. We finally left Canterbury at 6 and arrived at Victoria at 8:15. I saw Melissa off on the Gatwick Express. We did a lot of waving and the 2 hands pressed against the window thing. I was sad.

I went to three different information centers before I went to the correct one to get my Britrail Pass validated. Then it was time to be packed into a Tube car. I wanted to drop my bag… my fingers hurt, but I knew if I dropped it, there would be no way to bend over and retrieve it. It's amazing how many people can fit into one of those things. Anyway, I arrived at Kings Cross Station and got in the queue dutifully to reserve my train ticket, only to be told the only reservations to be had were for 1:00pm but I could try to hop one. Yup, and the train at 10:00 was considerably easy to hop. I had to ask a conductor who told me in a very heavy Indian accent, "E! E! You must go that way now!" And so I went. I ended up sitting next to a lady from Ontario who was here to visit her niece and discover her heritage.

April 7th

Just thought I'd write about now before finishing the Edinburgh part. I'm sitting on a bench, right about 10 yards from the water. I think it may be the North Sea, but it could be another one of those lochs with names I can't pronounce or spell. I think I've got Loch Ness down though. It's a beautiful setting. The Isle of Sky Bridge (up until 3 weeks ago the highest toll bridge) on my left. The mountains that the mist is slowly creeping over from on my right and as I already said, the water in front of me. With a rather large fishing boat trawling back from a long day. I'm not sure it's a fishing boat. It could be a damned ugly tourist boat. It sends a pleasant wake crashing ashore. I'm about to kill the gulls, they are getting on my nerves. I can't feel my fingers and my nose is runny. Otherwise it's a beautiful day in Scotland. It's cold, but as Melissa says, I like to complain… come to think of it, my mom often says the same thing. Well if this is the place for soul searching... maybe not. Got to cold. Went inside. There's a nice little atmospheric fire going, two guys are at the table playing a card game, the couple on the couch are speaking in German, and the others sound like Australians. Didn't have the heart to wander down to one of those smoky pubs and be the only one not drinking. Don't feel like it.

April8th

Nope didn't go to the pub. I'm going tonight though. Gotta eat. I'm finally thawing out, sitting in front of the fire in the "Groovy Lounge." Last night we played a game of British Trivial Pursuit, with a French Canadian, 2 Aussies, a guy from Connecticut and myself. It was an interesting game. We finally cheated and said anytime you landed on a question and got it right, you won a pie. We were up till about 1:00am… and I still couldn't get a pink pie. Half of the literary questions were about Dickens. 2 days later and I still haven't talked about Edinburg. Things keep conspiring against me. Yup things… Now where was I? (Jenny speed reads earlier written stuff). Okay, the train trip was fine. I actually managed to read my newly purchased guidebook and a third of the novel Other Lulus that Melissa gave me to read. Got off the train, up a damnable amount of stairs, and at the top my first view of Edinburg. Okay… so I was a little disappointed that the first thing I saw was the Disney Store, but the buildings were really awesome. Of course Jenny the Wonder Navigator had lost all sense of direction so I just started walking, thinking his way looked good. When I pulled out my map I found that, miracle of miracles, I had actually been heading in the right direction.>J

Now someone had failed to mention that Edinburgh was ONE BIG HILL. Up I trudged to the Royal Mile. Up up up…

April 9th

(back in Edinburgh Just finished trip) Okay, well the first night I stayed in High Street Hostel. I parked all my stuff and then went walking. Just explored the Royal Mile really. I found myself a sewing kit so I could sew the 2 buttons that had fallen off my coat back on. Rather than be wild and adventurous for dinner, I went to Pizza Hut. I scare myself sometimes. I ate the whole thing with a knife and fork. After dinner I went to the hostel and basically sacked out, looked at my maps and decided what was next. Oh, I forgot I also went and got lucky that one of the tour companies (Go Blue Banana) had just had a cancellation for the 3 day trip through Scotland. J

The next I woke up and cleared out at 8:30 and headed down to meet the mini bus. It was blue… with tons of flying bananas displayed across the side. Well, at least it was easily spotted.. On the first day we trekked up to the Isle of Skye, stopping along the at different castle and fort ruins, hillside views and of course. Loch Ness. Unfortunately the only Loch Ness Monsters we saw were two very unfriendly swans and a fibreglass Nessie outside the tourist center.

Brrr… one thing that I've noticed is the Scottish penchant for keeping windows open even when it happens to be snowing outside. Yup, snow in April. I don't think I could live very long in Scotland. Down south in Canterbury it was starting to get warm enough to go without a jacket. I wish I hadn't lost my scarf in a fire alarm last month.

Anyway, at the end of the first day we came to the hostel on Skye which I already told you about. Oh how it all comes in pieces! Day 2 was definitely the experience of bad Scottish weather… Rain and Wind. We climbed up this hill to get to this castle ruin that basically only had one roofed room left. By the time I was halfway there I was drenched and couldn't feel the right side of my face. Our guide Mike said we were lucky. Last week the gale force winds were so bad they were blowing the waterfall back about 40 feet into the loch. We stopped at two pubs on our way back to the hostel. Still couldn't get dry. I was surprised at how well my shoes kept dry. After changing clothes I went with the group to go have dinner in the pub (most of the time was spent telling jokes.). When I left at 11:00 they were still going strong. I found myself scarily mentally writing my next paper for my language class which just happens to be about on language learning culture. Here were about 5 different English speaking cultures interacting with each other.

April 9th 11:05…

(Edinburg) well back from the pub, but I guess that's pubs plural. And Pizza Hut. At the first pub we met up with some of the other people on the tour but we got hungry so my South African friend and I went to Pizza hut… wasn't much else left open. That's the horrible part of the UK is all the cheap places top serving about 8-9 pm. No 24 hour Taco Bell or Tommy's here! After pizza, we went to the pub we agreed to meet everyone else at. It was neat. There were a bunch of musicians just sitting there playing Scottish music. We both had a Hooch (sorta like a carbonated lemonade with a kick). At about 11:00 we decided that the others were either not coming or would be here really late so we headed back to the hostel. I came in and there are these two people making out on a lower bed tented in with a sheet. Not sure I'm fond of this co-ed thing. But hey, it's two nights. And a relatively cheap bed. Today we also went to Rob Roy's grave as well as toured the Braveheart country. It was snowing lightly which really pleased the South Africans and the Australians (didn't really impress the Canadians).

A guy (who I suspect of being slightly inebriated) just came in and shouted. "Come on! It's time to go. Stop having sex and go to the pub!" At least it got rid of them. I've got the room to myself now. He also said, "she's mad." The other guy said, "Don't you know by now that all women are mad?" He replied, "Yeah, but some women are madder than others." And the other guy said, "Isn't that a song?" Then he started singing his way out the door… on with my trip…

We also saw the William Wallace memorial. (too many $*^%$£ steps… you can fill in your own word there.) I think I'm going to bed now while the alcohol is still flushing through my cheeks. G'night.

April 10th

Another day of adventuring draws to a close. It's been pretty good day I think, although it had a shaky start. Iheaded out about 9:15 up the hill towards the castle with about £9 in my pocket. The bank was on the way so I pulled out my ATM card only to discover… that there was a huge crack running down the middle. No problem, just go into the bank… oops… it's Good Friday… no banks open… Thank goodness for Traveller's checks. Although the exchange rate was not so nice it was enough money for food and souvenirs etc.

Anyway, headed up to the castle, paid my ridiculously no student discount admission price and joined a tour with an amusing guide. Those guide people have such an admirably acquired ability to walk backwards. The castle was nice with lots of Victorian Medieval architecture. I saw the Scottish crown jewels and read the stunning story of how they were lost for 111 years and recovered by Sir Walter Scott. I saw the Stone of Destiny which some annoying children (teenagers) were asking what is was. They thought it was decoration. (Yes they needed huge rock to decorate the Crown Jewel case.) Good grief. It reminded me of the girl who asked "who's that?" when were took pictures of Donne in St. Paul's Cathedral. I also went into some of the military museums and the War Memorial Chapel. The chapel had really beautiful stain glass windows and books of name of those who died during WW1 and WW2. After finishing my 2 1/2 hours of the castle, I headed down… way down to the Scottish National Gallery. I perused through the Italian Renaissance then up the stairs to my favorite… the Impressionists. It was amazing to think of how many galleries I'd been to that had Monet, Van Gogh (the Brits pronounce it Van Goff. Dunno why…) Cezanne, Pisarro, etc. I saw 3 Monets that I liked and one Van Gogh. I dutifully went back down stairs and bought several overpriced postcards to go into my postcard book. Next I headed down the street to Burger King. It was 2:30 and I only had a small piece of pizza and a scone for breakfast (ahh leftovers…) Sitting here munching on my fruit shortcake biscuits instead of going out and finding dinner. Got an ample supply. I think I'll be fine. Anyway after Burger King I went off to the Scottish National Portrait Gallery. On the ground floor they had an interesting photo portrait exhibition. On the next floor they had a really cool exhibit on the face. Lots of different perception tricks. One of the photos up close was Tony Blair (Prime Minister) but from far away it was Margaret Thatcher.

Someone's alarm in going off… will I have to get up and turn it off? It was quite a search but I found the stupid bugger. Now where was I? Oh yes, the exhibit… By the time I finished that exhibit I have 15 minutes left so I ran upstairs and saw a room full of bland paintings of Scottish people. Didn't have the time to find Sean Connery. Darn. Tomorrow I do some more sightseeing. I'm amazed by how many free museums there are in Edinburg. In the afternoon I leave for York (which hopefully will be a lot warmer.) On Sunday I'll just have to sightsee, considering everything will probably be closed because of Easter. I hear York is lovely. BTW, bought a scarf for £4. Wanted a Campbell, but they were £10. I bought Campbell shortbreads instead. Just decided I want to go to Cardiff (Wales) where they're museum specializes in Impressionist paintings, and Winchester were Jane Austen lived.

April 11

I'm in York now and it's snowing here too. (Damn the British Weather) This hostel is nice, 3 girls in my room. The restaurant chefs are nice too. Apparently there was a £3.50 meal deal and I didn't want any beans or veggies so he gave me my chicken and chips for £2.50. No freephone, so I can't use my phone cards.

This morning I went down the hill to the mail center and reserved a seat on a 1:00 train to York. Then I hiked back up the hill and went to the Writer's Museum which is about Walter Scott, Robert Burns, and Robert Louis Stevenson. I wish I could say I found it enthralling but it was rather bland. Just what I wanted to see, a pair of R.L. Stevenson's old boots. I then went into St. Giles Cathedral It's one of the prettiest I think I've seen. The stain glass was awesome. When I went off into one of the side chapels there was this lady showing two tourists around. "this is where Prince Charles sits, and this is where the Queen sits, and here's where the Queen Mother sits and next to her is the Duke of Edinburgh… that's Prince Phillip." It was cute. The ladies in the church were busy decking it with daffodils and poppies for Easter the next day. After the cathedral I headed down to the Museum of Childhood, which oddly enough was filled with children. Hehehe… didn't spend too long in there. By that time it was 12:30 and I picked up my bag and went to catch my train. My seat was one of those table seats and the other occupants were a Scottish lady and her two red headed grandchildren. They were cute although the boy couldn't sit still in his seat for more than 5 minutes. After getting off the train I wandered down the main shopping area in search of a bank. It was closed. Damn them all! Won't open until Tuesday. So I exist off of Travellers' Checks and credit card.

April 12.

Don't let anyone ever tell you that sightseeing isn't hard work. I'm cramped up all the way from my neck to my big toe. Exhausted really… it's been a loooong day. My alarm went off at 7:30 which doesn't mean that's when I got out of bed… that was about 8:00. Breakfast was surprisingly huge. They don't skimp like the Uni does. I did skip on the more ominous looking black pudding, mushrooms, tomatos and the ever present British staple beans... one British custom that I will never understand. After that I walked into the city with Vanessa, an Australian backpacker. We took the river path and parted at the bridge. From there I headed towards Clifton's Tower. I figured I'd start my way at the back of the city and work forward. That way everything I wanted to see tomorrow would be close to the station. Clifton Tower is basically a ruin on top of this big pile of dirt that used to be a lookout tower for the York Castle. the biggest story there was about 350 Jews were confronted by a mob and hid out in the tower. Rather than convert some of them killed themselves. Those who surrendered and agreed to convert were massacred immediately by the mob(mainly made up of debtors who owed the Jews money).

Then on to the York Castle Museum which oddly enough is not a castle. The castle which had previously stood on the site had been torn down and a prison had been built on the site... wasn't about a prison either. Instead it was a comprehensive collection of stuff... lots of stuff. The museum just kept going and going. Full Victorian, Georgian rooms, and other rooms and streets were shown in minute detail. It was kinda neat. The next stop on my travels was the York Dungeon. It was more like a house of horrors using regional ghost stories than anything else. It was a little too crowded for me. Spent more of the time just standing in a queue. After that I walked down to the art gallery. I didn't find the art gallery too inspiring either, but it had an interesting exhibit on Greek modern art. I left the museum seeking a place to sit down (my feet were killing me!) And then I remembered the Jorvik Viking Center. It had a sit down ride.

April 13.

I'm on the train. Hasn't started moving yet... won't for another 10 minutes. It's pretty empty but I got another table seat... in the very back... or front of the car. Not sure which way we're going yet. We'll see. Anyway the Jorvik Viking Center ride was rather like one of those Fantasyland rides. It was a time warp back to a Viking village. They even piped smells in... that was the cool part. Then after we got off we got to look at all the tools and artifacts they found in the excavation. Part of the ride actually was the excavation sorta rather like the Canterbury Roman museum which was built around the roman floors they found. After the Viking center I went to McDonalds. I know, not very exciting but after a long day of touring all I wanted was some comfort food. After that I went to the meeting place for the 7:00 ghost tour. There was only one other family there waiting. They sorta adopted me. It was cute. It was also cold and we were rather upset when at 7:10 there was still no ghost tour guide. So I suggested we go to the one down the street that starts at 7:30. (I'm going forward by the way... trains moving... bu bye York.) York has a huge ghost tour industry with at least 4 companies doing walking tours and one boating tour. The guide for the 7:30 tour was well dressed ina top hat and a Victorian looking black suit and an authentic walking cane...

Ya know, most of the British countryside looks the same. Rather peaceful sheep, fields, rows of hedges, and aaahhhh! Trains that come up suddenly and scare you witless... enough view. Where was I, oh yes, it was 8:30 at night when I headed back to the youth hostel along the river (which is called Ouse and pronounced Ooze) which actually looked blue. I get a third of the way there and the street lights end. Needless to say it was not a happy walk home. I was glad for my trusty keychain flashlight (British Translation: torch) that Mom gave me for Xmas. I psyched myself up to yell at any muggers. I'm from LA. Don't mess with me. But no... I think the closest I got to a potential mugger was this guy who approached me this morning on the way to the rail station. He asked me "Are you from York?" I wanted to say, "Yes I'm from York, I just liked to carry around two weeks worth of luggage with me." I just said no. He said, "Well, today in York we're giving free haircuts." I just gave him a blank stare. "Do you want a free haircut?" As much as I need a haircut, this guy set off alarm bells. He wasn't carrying any signs or flyers and didn't look too nice so I politely declined and said I didn't have time. I continued to the rail station where I put my stuff in a locker. Actually they don't call them lockers. They call it left luggage.

So off I went to York Minster which has the wonderful claim of being the longest church in England. Oh and I think I forgot to mention that yesterday when I first headed into town all the churches were ringing their bells for Easter. It was a very pretty noise. If I had been able to drag myself out of bed earlier and if I had something nice to wear besides jeans and a sweatshirt I probably would have gone to service. Otherwise I walked into the Minster and they were offering tours of the bell towers, which they only do every so often. So I climbed the 161 spiraling steps to the bells. Our guide showed us the different ones and even rang the little bells (little being figurative because I doubt two men could have lifted the smallest one.) Then he took us into the other tower and showed us Big Peter, a ten ton bell (or as Dad would say "The Big Whamoo") Our guide showed us how well the bell was constructed by manually swinging the clapper (1.5 tons) and tapping the bell (which we happened to be standing under) The "little tap" vibrated everything for about a minute afterwards. Very pretty sound though.

After trudging back down the dizzying stairs, I wandered around the church looking at the stained glass windows. I think York Minster is prettier than Canterbury, but there is more to see in the Cathedral.

After leaving the Minster I headed down the medieval(when will I ever be able to spell that word?) tourist traps... err I mean streets and managed to see a bit of a juggling act and buy some cookies... yum. After that I headed back to the train station, bought a book, (already finished the one Melissa gave me) collected my luggage, and got on the train. We just left Sheffield and are now heading towards Derby. I think I'm going to read my book and eat my cookies now.

April 14


Yup... that's what I did. When I changed at Bristol I almost missed the train because our train was late and the computers were down because of flooding. I asked the boy standing in one of the trains if it was going to Cardiff and it was so I hopped in. It was more of a commuter train than the other ones I'd been on. I began to panic when we got to Glouchester... which is north, not west where Cardiff was. But apparently because of flooding or infamous bank holiday rail work we had to go 37 minutes North before turning south west to Cardiff. Strange... but I arrived and even managed to find a bus out to the hostel. The hostel was okay, not half as nice as York, but the people were friendly.

I got up this morning and walked the 1 1/2 mile trek into town to the museum. I was not disappointed. They had at least 7 Monets and lots of pottery. Only one Van Gogh, and lots of Rennaissance etc. This was only the gallery. Downstairs they had a huge Natural History of Wales. Most of it was geared towards children, but there were some interesting displays. Some of the Earthquake and Techtonic displays reminded me of my earthquakes class (Plywood Sheething!... oh, um sorry...) I left the museum at 2 and headed over to the castle... the epitome of Victorian taste - gold gilt, symbolism galore, and birds everywhere. The guide was very good with the children in the group. After the tour I went to explore the tower (which amazingly reminded me of Clifford's tower. Same concept. Big stone ruin on top of mound.) Also the original Roman walls (which were underground) and the Queen's Dragoon Guards Musuem. Let me tell you this, Brits are almost as fond of their War museums as they are of their War Memorials. There is so much more of a presence of the previous wars than in the states. After purchasing a few postcards I headed towards the train station to reserve a train for tomorrow's trip to Bath. (11:30) and now I'm sitting at Wimpy's (kinda like a Denny's) and I'm about to catch a bus. I was going to walk back, but my feet are killing me and it's raining… at least it isn't snow.

April 15


Well I'm in Bath now. Last night I basically went back to the hostel and vegged and read my book. It's pretty good. This morning I got up and took a train to Bath. What I like about this hostel is that it's right in the center of town so I don't have to take a bus or walk 20 minutes. I arrived about one and dropped my luggage and wandered. Bath is so very... Georgian. Huge stately houses in neoclassical design. that are beginning to feel the ramshackleness of time. If there is one thing that traveling in Britain has taught me is that everything decays. I think Mel would probably call it the Second Law of Thermodynamics. Never took physics myself. There's so much scaffolding and drudgery that blackens the buildings. The cobblestone streets don't have the same quaint behavior as the ones lined by Tudor houses like Canterbury and York. This hostel was once probably a very beautiful home. The stately wood worked walls are now painted in a violent pastel scheme with slick black music notes. The fireplace has been walled in but the mantle remains. I can't even begin to describe the worn puce carpet.

But on to other things. My first stop today was the Bath Assembly rooms and the Costume Musuem. They had an excellent audio tour but they really needed more benches. Many people actually sat on the floor because the audio part was so long. It was interesting to see the evolving style of dress since the 16th century. The assembly rooms were where the people of Bath held their parties and balls. You could almost imagine Jane Austen and others dancing and making intelligent conversation with eligible young gentlemen. After the costume museum I managed to get lost, but headed towards the church spire (can't miss the abbey) and went inside. The fan roof was splendid and as I recall from my guidebook the abbey is second only to Westminster Abbey in the amount of plaques it contains... around 680. One plaque set in the floor commemorated the Queen's visit in 1973 at the 1000 year anniversery of the crown of England. Apparently King Edgar first supposed King of England was crowned in the church that Bath Abbey was built. They're very fond of their Royal Visitation plaques. There was one outside the Jorvik Viking Center for the Prince of Wales visit in the 80's. How cute. After the Abbey, I wandered about, got lost, found myself (Halleluja!) and had dinner (Chicken Kiev) in a cafe that seemed entirely populated with Americans. After dinner I went back to the hostel, chatted with the Aussies and Kewis that seemed to populate my room and then got bundled up to go for a "Bizzarre Bath" walking tour. (Did I forget to mention that it's cold and rained most of the day? Someone came in and said it's snowing in London) Anyway at least the skies cleared up for the walk. I really thought the walk was a funny and intriguing concept. Kind of like interactive standup, with a little magic and a lot of poking fun at passers by. He was wearing a very loud purple jacket and stated very clearly that this was not a history tour. It was amusing.



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