Introduction:

Welcome to my North Korean travel diary, April 29 - May 6, 2002!

This guide is entirely unpolitical and has no hidden agenda. I am not a journalist, politician or historian. I'm doing this diary as much for myself as a reminder of a once-in-a-lifetime trip as for the information of prospective travellers.

It had been in the back of my mind for well over ten years that I wanted to see the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (to give it its full name) in the flesh, but I never did get round to doing much about it.
However, seeing all the other communist countries fall by the wayside and embrace capitalism, I felt it was time to have a close look at this last remaining 'socialist paradise' before it'd be too late.
Political propaganda and the inherent cult of personality fascinate me. Stalin and Ceausescu may have tried something similar in their spheres of influence, but they failed to create anything like the reverence paid to Kim Il Sung, the founder of the DPRK and its president even eight years after his death!

Scouring the internet for information I found two travel agents organising tours into the DPRK, namely VNC in Holland and Koryo Tours in Beijing, China. I went for Koryo Tours in the end, because I live in London and it's run by Nick Bonner, an Englishman I was able to meet here to sort the Visa out etc. Nick usually accompanies the groups he organises, and, as I found out rather quickly, he shall never be beaten on enthusiasm and helpfulness!

Throughout the diary I shall be using a few abbreviations, namely:

DPRK = Democratic People's Republic of Korea (the official name of the country)
DMZ = Demilitarized Zone, the border area with South Korea
KIS = Kim Il Sung (founder of the country, 1912-1994, still president of the country)
KJI = Kim Jong Il (son of KIS, born 1942, current president of the country with KIS)
NK = North Korea, North Korean, North Koreans etc
SK = South Korea, South Korean, South Koreans etc

Bear in mind that what we saw during our trip was what the NK authorities wanted us to see, i.e. the good side. For a report on all that is wrong with the DPRK see this 1999 US Congress report.
I am well aware that NK's human rights record is appalling and that its people are effectively imprisoned, unable to even travel freely within its borders. None in our group were ignorant of these facts, but as we did not see them first hand, I will leave it for others to comment on that subject more extensively than I could. (I feel however provoked to respond to a BBC report, for details click here.)

I will not enter into any correspondence about my views expressed on these pages. They are entirely my own and based on my experience and background. If you must comment, do so in the guestbook. However, I welcome all constructive criticism, corrections or your own experiences.

I'll be happy to answer any travel questions to the best of my abilities. My email is bruarn@btinternet.com.

Special thanks are due to Kate and Duncan, who generously made available to me more than 400 of their incredible photos, some of which I have used on these pages.

So, stay with me through seven days of travelling up and down the country, taking in sights and sounds not found anywhere else in this world.

If you are thinking of going to North Korea yourself, this guide will give a good idea of what you can expect to see and experience. If you're just curious about the country, you'll get an insight into the 'hermit state', famously branded part of the 'axis of evil' (together with Iran and Iraq).

Thank you for your interest in my travel diary!
Arne Eilers
London, May 2002

 

These books come highly recommended:

Eric Cornell, North Korea Under Communism "The author of this book spent three years as head of the embassy of Sweden in Pyongyang. Until a few years ago, it was the only Western embassy in North Korea. His unique experiences are related with descriptions of day-to-day life and with analyses of economic, political and ideological conditions. A picture is drawn of a society and a political order that defy both human nature and common sense."

Bradt Travel Guide - North Korea "Covering the capital, Pyongyang, in detail, this guide offers in-depth information on the practical aspects of travelling to and around North Korea, including access from South Korea via the Hyundai ferry and from Beijing. It provides information on everything a traveller needs, including festivals and culture, red tape and security issues, and routes outwards from Pyongyang, various tour options and opportunities for excursions into unspoilt countryside. The guide offers an insight into the culture and history of a country that currently exists in virtual isolation from the rest of the world."

 

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